GC1700 sub compact neutral switch wont allow starter to go

[gtbread]

I am usually just a looker this is my 1st post Ive had this problem off and on for a while the switch? that tells the ignition that its in neutral has been acting up (I had it narrowed down this fall)and now it wont let me start the tractor .tried some wiggling and such to no avail .now its sitting out in the driveway dead .Wondering if there's a bypass ? or how to fix / replace it .when I look up neutral switch it gives me the threaded switch for the transmission.This is a plastic assembly under the right it is under the right side of the seat and is actuated by the High Low neutral lever .any help would be appreciated. Thanks David

 

[DMW]

There is nothing interfering with the switch?

 

[CobyRupert]

Does plastic assembly have a connection that you can unplug from the wires that go to it?
Do just 2 wires go to switch? If so, this would indicate it’s a single pole switch. That is, switch just opens and closes a connection between the 2 wires depending on shift lever position. Typically, switch might be Normally Open and then Close when the tractor is in neutral, completing the connection between the 2 wires and satisfying the interlock. If so, manually jumpering the wires temporarily would bypass the switch and satisfy the interlock enough to get it off the driveway.
Now if more than 2 wires go to switch, or more complicated, all bets are off.

 

[gtbread]

Thanks that is the switch,,, we can see the switch it is being moved by the lever and it has done this in the past I wiggled it and it worked alright for a few months,now of course today when we wanted to push snow it quits .

 

[gtbread]

I think it does have a connection but its behind and hard to see I can get to the screws and remove it I think Its dark out now and below 0 so I will check it out in the morning ,Thank you Cody ,David

 

[WranglerX]

Does plastic assembly have a connection that you can unplug from the wires that go to it?
Do just 2 wires go to switch? If so, this would indicate it’s a single pole switch. That is, switch just opens and closes a connection between the 2 wires depending on shift lever position. Typically, switch might be Normally Open and then Close when the tractor is in neutral, completing the connection between the 2 wires and satisfying the interlock. If so, manually jumpering the wires temporarily would bypass the switch and satisfy the interlock enough to get it off the driveway.
Now if more than 2 wires go to switch, or more complicated, all bets are off.

My thought also...

Dale

 

[lpakiz]

As one who has bypassed many a neutral start switch, I concur. But first, wiggle the plug and the switch lever to see if it is a matter of poor connection or improper position of the activating lever.
If the tractor still does not start when in neutral, simply unplug it and try again. If it still does not start, connect the two wire terminals (coming from the tractor harness end, not the switch end) to simulate a closed switch. A U shaped piece of wire works. Even a paper clip, with half of it cut off, works. Make sure you are sitting in the seat, clutch depressed, PTO lever in neutral, etc. and that all other starting requirements are met.
Make sure the bare jumper does not touch anything metal.
If this works, be careful, as it can and will start while in gear! Then get a new switch!
If you can access the starter itself, you can jumper the starter solenoid in the same manner. Again, Make SURE it is in neutral, brakes set, etc. so it can’t move if and when it does start.

 

[CobyRupert]

The mower at my mom’s still has a piece of cardboard taped to the shift lever (hydro level actually) so that lever “more engages” the neutral switch better. A “temporary” fix I put on it about 6 years ago.
Should adjust the switch position or jumper it out.....one of these days.
But if OP can see switch, maybe taking a screwdriver to “more engage” switch, if wiggling lever doesn’t help, might work to get tractor out of driveway.

 

[Dmacleo]

just changed mine on my 2010 gc2400 its 4 pin setup (inside 6 pin connector) and the connector is a PAIN to get at. had to loosen all shift linkage, etc to do it.
remember that also integrates with the seat switch.
what I had to do (since my plastic tab broke off) was hold start on key and move switch until I heard engagement then superglue switch into that position to get me home and by a few days.
for gc2400 its massey # 4267281M91 and cost 75$.
the 1700 looks to take same range safety switch per parts book.

 

[WranglerX]

If electrical diagram in Tractor manual is to be believed (page 4-24) it may be switch #22 and its actually a two wire circuit.....

Dale

 

[Dmacleo]

If electrical diagram in Tractor manual is to be believed (page 4-24) it may be switch #22 and its actually a two wire circuit.....

Dale

got one sitting in palm of hand. its 4 wire







edit: I have full service manual and also noticed the schematics look like a 2 wire yet....there we are. one in hand worth more than one on paper LOL

edit: forgot mention must pull rt rear tire to access and have rear of tractor high in air will make it easier.

range switch has red yellow blue black and seat switch has red black. if cannot make switch work I would cross the black and red on range switch to tell system seat switch is activated then cross the yellow blue to simulate range switch being neutral. just a thought. can't really get a good "picture" from service manual.

 

[not2old]

I don't know how it works but it's more complicated than just a neutral start switch. If it's in neutral, it will start without sitting in the seat. If it's running ,getting off the seat will kill the motor if not in neutral.

 

[CobyRupert]

Sounds like a 2 pole (2 contacts or 2 switches) switch.
When in neutral, one closed contact completes the interlock to start. This is the one you need to jumper to start.
Seems the other pole (of the switch) might be wired in parallel with the seat switch that keeps tractor running. Tractor either has to be in neutral (and switched closed) or seat switch closed to keep tractor running.

 

[mgstevens]

Having spent a day or so not tractoring because of this, I learned that there are two switches, the seat and the gear selector (neutral) switch.

In my case the plastic yolk on the neutral (gear selector) switch had one leg of the yolk broken off. It took me a while to note that the switch needs to be in the center position (versus off to one end..) to allow starting.

Then there is the additional cutoff switch under the seat. In my case, the twisting action of the TLB seat from front to rear position had pinched the seat-switch cable and shorted it. Then, the previous owner had used a zip tie to hold the seat switch down, but the lever of the switch could slip out of the hold of the zip tie, something I need to address every winter it seems....

Anyway, to sort the non-starting, check the position and wiring of both switches and that they are both doing their jobs. In my case, upon finding out that the fix for the broken plastic switch yolk-arm is to replace the entire switch for good money only to have the deficient plastic break again, I will fashion an arm/yolk from aluminum and take it from there.

If someone is being a responsible operator, defeating the cutoff switches is more practical, but I'm sure there are people that really need them operable.

 

[Dmacleo]

Having spent a day or so not tractoring because of this, I learned that there are two switches, the seat and the gear selector (neutral) switch.

this is what happened to mine, one leg of the fork snapped off. to operate for a few days I cut the other leg off and glued it in place (centered) to allow starting.

 

[coldsteelva]

I had a shorted neutral safety also - and took a while for me to identify the short as the cause - immediate solution was to go to the end of the pigtail on the Left hand side (even though the switch lives on the right), unplug from the connector and jumper the pins with a small U-shape of wire.