Backhoe Connectors on backhoe hydraulic lines?

   / Connectors on backhoe hydraulic lines? #1  

exohomestead

Bronze Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2016
Messages
55
Location
Midwest
Tractor
MH CG2310, White GT205, Cessna 140
I need a new "un-curl" backhoe hose. This appears to be #18 on Page 18 of the 2375 Backhoe parts book. It's listed as part #71516103 hose, 1/4" x 128". This appears to also be #7 on Page16 of the same book. It's listed as part #71515428 hose, 1/4" x 128". Why the different part numbers?

Has anybody actually taken this hose off their tractor and could advise the full spec for the connectors on both ends? I'm planning to order from Discount Hydraulic Hose .com but I need to be sure of the actual end-to-end length and the types of connectors. The connectors aren't separately called out in the parts manuals, and I don't know if the "128" inches in the manuals is actual end of connector to end of connector distance.

~ Exo
 
   / Connectors on backhoe hydraulic lines? #2  
I need a new "un-curl" backhoe hose. This appears to be #18 on Page 18 of the 2375 Backhoe parts book. It's listed as part #71516103 hose, 1/4" x 128". This appears to also be #7 on Page16 of the same book. It's listed as part #71515428 hose, 1/4" x 128". Why the different part numbers?

Has anybody actually taken this hose off their tractor and could advise the full spec for the connectors on both ends? I'm planning to order from Discount Hydraulic Hose .com but I need to be sure of the actual end-to-end length and the types of connectors. The connectors aren't separately called out in the parts manuals, and I don't know if the "128" inches in the manuals is actual end of connector to end of connector distance.

~ Exo

Just take the old hose to a local hydraulic shop. They will make an exact duplicate, usually cheaper that OEM.

It's called dump, not un-curl.;)
hugs, Brandi
 
   / Connectors on backhoe hydraulic lines? #3  
Ditto what Brandi said. Most any area of reasonable size/population will have a hydraulics shop. Could be a function of local auto parts stores as well.

That's what I did when I made three 24" extensions for the BH hydro lines -- best move I ever made! My 2310 came with Safeway S45-2 connectors.

Safeway S45-2.JPG
 
   / Connectors on backhoe hydraulic lines? #4  
Below is the Safeway Couplers S40 Series information I have gathered and ordered for my MF GC2410:

Female Half: S45-2

Male Half: S41-2

Complete Coupler (Male + Female): S40-2

KC

And Loctite Sealant #545
 
   / Connectors on backhoe hydraulic lines?
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I need a new "un-curl" backhoe hose.

~ Exo

Still working my list of projects... I'm replacing a leaking "uncurl" or dump hose (sanity check: is that the long one that goes to the farthest end of the farthest piston on the BH arm - that's the uncurl action when it's pressurized, right?). All the normal options to make a new hose wanted to provide fatter hose that would not work. Even the dealer didn't know the difference until I asked him to measure the OD of what he would make for me.

After a lot of research, I found a hose with the same outside diameter with a chance it will fit through the backhoe arm. See the March 2021 text at Massey Ferguson GC2310 TLB Repair for details. I'm thinking of getting a 3/4" length of 9/16-18 threaded rod so that I can connect the old and new hoses together and pull/thread the new one through the BH arms as I pull the old one out. How did you do this?

What position should the BH arms be left in to make this easy before disconnecting the old hose? All straight and extended horizontally? Rested on the ground? Rested on a log stump? Anybody have a picture or step-by-step of how they did it?

Not sure there's room at the valve control block to reach all the hose connectors. Which control lever valve block does this hose go to? Looks like to access the bottom row, the top row connector needs to be disconnected first. Backhoe 2375 parts book (pg 16 number 7) shows the long hose on the bottom of the second block from the tractor left (picture right) end of the control assembly. Physical inspection of my tractor ~appears~ to have it as the top hose on that valve block. Parts book pg 18 part 18 shows the hose and Detail B indicates the bottom of second block would be "connection #10". Can anybody confirm? Is there someway to inspect the tractor itself and pragmatically determine which hose gets pressure when I move a control stick one or the other direction?

When I connect the new hose (with air in the line), will cycling the control move the bubble of air around through the lines and eventually eject it into the hydraulic reservoir, giving me solid fluid in all the new line? If not, what is the right procedure for bleeding a new line?
 
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   / Connectors on backhoe hydraulic lines? #6  
I call that a bucket dump hose. First off, I have no idea what your machine looks like or it's size Usually different hose manufacturers have alittle difference outside diameters. Usually a little difference won't hurt. You would be surprised how difference new .vs OEM replacement could be sized different.

That said, loosen the leaking line at the bucket. They wiggle it or push and pull it at each place you can see it. Have a helper grab or mark it. Repete this procedure all the way back up the hoe to the valves.

You may need some offset or crows foot wrenches to remove and reinstall the hose fitting to the valve bank. I use aircraft safety wire to pull though with the old hose. I tie it on to the new hose and pull it back into place. Put an fitting plug or tape over the end of the new hose as you pull it thru. Lots of crud hiding inside booms.

To position for bucket hose removal, extend the backhoe fully straight near the ground, then prop the dipper stick on something higher then the bucket is to the ground. If accessible to the line fitting, you can completely curl or extend (dump) the bucket and sit it on the ground. I would prefer this way, then the cylinder won't move. I cap all cylinder and valve fittings while the hose is removed. You never know when a stupid bee will fly inside. Use caps or tape again. Plastic bags with tywraps or zip ties work fine also.

Be sure to bleed all pressure off of the lines before cracking a fitting. I always pour acetone in my new lines to rinse them out before installing. Then blow air thru it with a nozzle to make sure all is out and dry. To get the air out, just keep operating until all jerkiness is gone and it operates smoothly. Hope this helps.
hugs, Brandi
 
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   / Connectors on backhoe hydraulic lines?
  • Thread Starter
#7  
bindian, Thanks for the reply.

On my MFGC2310 I have the 2375 backhoe. I guess I mistakenly thought they all looked the same and were supposed to use the same hoses. My OEM hoses are definitely smaller in diameter than the ones that have been replaced by someone else.

I'll look into crows feet wrenches. When you highlight bleeding pressure, you mean setting and supporting the backhoe arm and then with the engine off, move the controls around until nothing tries to move?

I like the safety wire idea of pulling the new hose through - if it's strong enough to do the job. At the middle of the BH arm, where there are 6 hoses that disappear into the frame, it is ~really~ tight. I think it's 1) because two hoses were replaced with fatter hoses before I owned the tractor, and 2) the cylinder 45 connector in the joint is supposed to be set with a slight angle offset, but my is installed straight on the piston and is really tight against the grease zerk and conflicts with other hoses.
 
   / Connectors on backhoe hydraulic lines? #8  
I'd call it the rod end hose for the backhoe bucket cylinder. I too would use a length of wire attached to the old and new hose to facilitate the replacement. Using a piece of threaded rod or a male/male hydraulic fitting to couple the hoses together will create a rigid section 4"-6" long that may be difficult or impossible to work through the boom and swing post. The other bucket cylinder hose would be the base end hose.
 
   / Connectors on backhoe hydraulic lines? #9  
bindian, Thanks for the reply.

On my MFGC2310 I have the 2375 backhoe. I guess I mistakenly thought they all looked the same and were supposed to use the same hoses. My OEM hoses are definitely smaller in diameter than the ones that have been replaced by someone else.

I'll look into crows feet wrenches. When you highlight bleeding pressure, you mean setting and supporting the backhoe arm and then with the engine off, move the controls around until nothing tries to move?

I like the safety wire idea of pulling the new hose through - if it's strong enough to do the job. At the middle of the BH arm, where there are 6 hoses that disappear into the frame, it is ~really~ tight. I think it's 1) because two hoses were replaced with fatter hoses before I owned the tractor, and 2) the cylinder 45 connector in the joint is supposed to be set with a slight angle offset, but my is installed straight on the piston and is really tight against the grease zerk and conflicts with other hoses.
You may need to grind some wrenches to fit. Get some cheap ones from a pawn shop if you don't have any. I have been known to cut up a wrench and weld it at the angle I need.

When you straighten the backhoe out on the ground, you don't need to support it if the bucket is curled all the way or extended. Or you can block it up so it is easier to work on. THEN, with engine off, wiggle all controls to bleed pressure off.

If is that tight, you may want to replace the bigger lines also. The wire just might not do the trick. Play around with trial and error. Just make sure the hose ID is the same. You may need to remove two hoses and reinstall those hoses for access. Otherwise, lube the hose with liquid soap. Welcome to the world of fixing someone else's screwup.
hugs, Brandi
 
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