JD Brush Hog: Can’t access bolt to take blades off.

[piaffepony]

I have a Frontier RC2072 cutter and the blades need to be sharpened badly. Manual says take the tail wheel bar off to expose the access port, turn the blade pan by hand to locate the 1 1/2” bolt to remove the blade.

I’m guessing there is a small dent in the pan because I don’t have enough room to fit my socket over the bolt.

Will I need to replace the pan or can I get a few more seasons out of it? If I don’t have to replace it, what’s the quickest way to get those bolts off so I can sharpen those blades? Also, manual says “I must replace mounting hardware when reattaching the blades”??? Not sure which hardware it’s referring too exactly.

If I have to take the pan off with the blades attached, how heavy is it? (I’m a 120lb woman doing this alone. Upper-body strength isn’t exactly my forte lol)

 

[fried1765]

I have a Frontier RC2072 cutter and the blades need to be sharpened badly. Manual says take the tail wheel bar off to expose the access port, turn the blade pan by hand to locate the 1 1/2” bolt to remove the blade.

I’m guessing there is a small dent in the pan because I don’t have enough room to fit my socket over the bolt.

Will I need to replace the pan or can I get a few more seasons out of it? If I don’t have to replace it, what’s the quickest way to get those bolts off so I can sharpen those blades? Also, manual says “I must replace mounting hardware when reattaching the blades”??? Not sure which hardware it’s referring too exactly.

If I have to take the pan off with the blades attached, how heavy is it? (I’m a 120lb woman doing this alone. Upper-body strength isn’t exactly my forte lol)View attachment 691908


View attachment 691909

I have a Frontier RC2072 cutter and the blades need to be sharpened badly. Manual says take the tail wheel bar off to expose the access port, turn the blade pan by hand to locate the 1 1/2” bolt to remove the blade.

I’m guessing there is a small dent in the pan because I don’t have enough room to fit my socket over the bolt.

Will I need to replace the pan or can I get a few more seasons out of it? If I don’t have to replace it, what’s the quickest way to get those bolts off so I can sharpen those blades? Also, manual says “I must replace mounting hardware when reattaching the blades”??? Not sure which hardware it’s referring too exactly.

If I have to take the pan off with the blades attached, how heavy is it? (I’m a 120lb woman doing this alone. Upper-body strength isn’t exactly my forte lol)View attachment 691908


View attachment 691909

No idea how heavy that pan with blades is, but I am an 80 year old man weighing 188 lbs, and doubt that I could manage that easily either.
I would get some large wood blocks, and stack them up tight, in a triangular pattern, under the pan at it's outer edge, where the blades attach to the pan.
Then I would beg borrow or steal a 3/4" pneumatic impact wrench (I have one) with proper size impact socket, and crawl under there to TRY to get that nut/bolt off.
It will likely take SIGNIFICANT force to remove that center nut/bolt, and a 3/4" impact wrench may actually not be powerful enough!
After removing the bolt, just lift the mower housing a bit more, and back away.

I suspect replacing the "mounting hardware" refers to replacing the BLADE mounting bolts, and that would seem to be a necessity due to probable bolt fatigue/wear.

The best option by far though, would be to find a big strong male buck to do this job for you, or put it on a trailer, and take it somewhere, to have it done!
This is clearly NOT 120 lb. woman work, and quite questionable for an 80 year old man as well.

 

[RickB]

Make the access hole bigger to allow direct access to the blade bolt. Much easier than removing the stump jumper/ blade bar. There's a very small probability of a bent stump jumper/blade bar and a very high probability that the access hole isn't properly located, especially if both blade bolts look like your picture.

 

[WranglerX]

As suggested above make access hole bigger so socket fits bolt head nicely.... Also suggest if you don't have big air tools you may consider getting a torque multiplier... Blade bolt are traditionally really high torque specification (maybe 400-600 ft-lbs) and with age and rust it is going to be really difficult.... I have a torque multiplier that has a 4:1 ratio so ever one pound of force applied to handle it applied 4 pounds of force on (output) socket... So say 100 ft-lbs applies to handle it can produce 400 ft-lbs force on output.... Above all do not be dissuaded because you are woman and only whopping 120 pounds, these thing can defeat a 300 pound gorilla with really big tools.... Not any loss of pride to call in reinforcement with big tools.... Also suggest you get 3/4 in drive sockets and breaker bar because you are probably going to break any 1/2 drive tools....And please don't use a ratchet, its going to be first thing that fails and when it does you may get hurt if you have any amount of force applied...

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-613cgdga/images/stencil/660x660/products/127/9897/Williams_torque_Multiplier_with_Handle____07304.1470312576.jpg?c=2

And a torque multiplier usually can be rented at better tool rental places...

Good luck!

Dale

 

[mcfarmall]

Looks like the well-paid technicians at Frontier put the access hole in the wrong spot.

 

[bearthebruce]

@piaffepony, before you crawl under that mower, please do make sure you have it well supported so it cannot come down on you. 120lb versus 500+ pounds... which do you think survives?

Do not trust the 3PH to hold it up. Do not trust the tractor hydraulics. Please block it up so it cannot move.

 

[deserteagle71]

Looks to me like it should be possible to get under there with an angle grinder and touch up those blades in place, so why remove them?

Remember, you don't want to sharpen the blades to a really sharp edge. Google "how to sharpen bush hog blades"; there are several videos showing how to do this without removing the blades at all. Quick and simple!

 

[Rustyiron]

Well I'd suggest that you start hitting the 2 bolts right away with some penetrating spray every week or so . Blades are no fun, sometimes no matter what you have for tools.
If you're just knocking down brush I'd just run them, now a pretty pasture could be a different story depending on your expectations.

 

[RickB]

Looks like the well-paid technicians at Frontier put the access hole in the wrong spot.

Frontier doesn't design or manufacture anything. Frontier is a collection of implements sourced from short line manufacturers and rebranded as Frontier and sold by John Deere and their dealer network.

 

[piaffepony]

As suggested above make access hole bigger so socket fits bolt head nicely.... Also suggest if you don't have big air tools you may consider getting a torque multiplier... Blade bolt are traditionally really high torque specification (maybe 400-600 ft-lbs) and with age and rust it is going to be really difficult.... I have a torque multiplier that has a 4:1 ratio so ever one pound of force applied to handle it applied 4 pounds of force on (output) socket... So say 100 ft-lbs applies to handle it can produce 400 ft-lbs force on output.... Above all do not be dissuaded because you are woman and only whopping 120 pounds, these thing can defeat a 300 pound gorilla with really big tools.... Not any loss of pride to call in reinforcement with big tools.... Also suggest you get 3/4 in drive sockets and breaker bar because you are probably going to break any 1/2 drive tools....And please don't use a ratchet, its going to be first thing that fails and when it does you may get hurt if you have any amount of force applied...

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-613cgdga/images/stencil/660x660/products/127/9897/Williams_torque_Multiplier_with_Handle____07304.1470312576.jpg?c=2

And a torque multiplier usually can be rented at better tool rental places...

Good luck!

Dale

Thank you for the kind words! I’m not dissuaded at all... I’ve learned to be creative to work around my physical and fiscal limitations because I’ll grow old waiting on a man to come help lol blocks, jacks, jack stands, pry/cheater bars, ratchets, pullies and Google are girls’ best friends working in a man’s world!

I’m lucky enough to have an awesome 3/4 drive Milwaukee impact (seriously LOVE it!) and it hasn’t failed me yet on some large ancient/rusty bolts after a quick application of some penetrating oil or another.

The one thing I don’t have is an angle grinder. My old corded one took a crap which is why I’m trying to get the blades off. I do have a spare set of new blades and can use my bench grinder on the old ones until I can snag another grinder. I already asked a few friends if they had one I could borrow but no such luck. What would be the best way to enlarge the opening? I started to try with my sawzall but it’s rather difficult (and a bit sketchy safety wise) given that it’s in channel that holds the tail wheel bar. I probably need to enlarge it a good 1/4-1/2”.

 

[piaffepony]

Looks like the well-paid technicians at Frontier put the access hole in the wrong spot.

I was trying to be nice and give them the benefit of the doubt, but you could be right! That would definitely be my luck lol

 

[jmc]

Can't tell from the pic how much head room you have above the
1 1/2" nut, but sometimes you can finesse an unmounted socket from the side when a mounted socket can't be tilted enough. If you can't quite finesse it on, and the socket is deeper than the nut thickness, maybe shorten the socket on a belt sander or with an abrasive cutoff wheel.

That said, if your field is stubbly afterwards, it might be from the tractor wheels flattening the weeds and they can't pop back up fast enough before the cutter gets there. Also, more overlap between passes helps with the weeds that fall just inside the cutter's footprint. And cutting in reverse with a round-back cutter pushes some uncut weeds off to the side.

Personally, I think rotary cutters do more pulverizing than cutting, so lawnmower-like sharpness isn't important, and it won't stay sharp for long anyway. I've never resharpened my blades and they still seem to do OK.

 

[TractorGuy]

I would get a hole saw the same size as the hole. Take the pilot bit out if you have to. Set drill on high and enter the hole at an angle to make it egg shaped. Feed the saw with light pressure or it will grab. Touch, touch, touch until it goes through.

 

[deserteagle71]

Should be some tool rental places around there that can rent you an angle grinder.

 

[WranglerX]

Thank you for the kind words! I’m not dissuaded at all... I’ve learned to be creative to work around my physical and fiscal limitations because I’ll grow old waiting on a man to come help lol blocks, jacks, jack stands, pry/cheater bars, ratchets, pullies and Google are girls’ best friends working in a man’s world!

I’m lucky enough to have an awesome 3/4 drive Milwaukee impact (seriously LOVE it!) and it hasn’t failed me yet on some large ancient/rusty bolts after a quick application of some penetrating oil or another.

The one thing I don’t have is an angle grinder. My old corded one took a crap which is why I’m trying to get the blades off. I do have a spare set of new blades and can use my bench grinder on the old ones until I can snag another grinder. I already asked a few friends if they had one I could borrow but no such luck. What would be the best way to enlarge the opening? I started to try with my sawzall but it’s rather difficult (and a bit sketchy safety wise) given that it’s in channel that holds the tail wheel bar. I probably need to enlarge it a good 1/4-1/2”.

YOU might be able to get a hole saw, and drill/cut new hole off to side if there is room, one with slight better position to get sockets onto nuts....

Dale

 

[RalphVa]

My Frontier is an RC2048. Haven't had that problem on mine. Before I'd remove that center bolt to take the whole rotating assembly down, I'd look at either grinding or cutting away enough of that metal where the access hole is to get your socket onto the nuts. Don't think you (nor I) could handle that whole mess.

On mine, the bolts (through from the bottom, held in place by a locking protrusion that matches up with a hole to keep the bolt from rotating) sometimes get locked up a bit by that locking protrusion (don't know what the proper name for it is). Often have to give the bolt a wap with a hammer and short socket extension to get the bolt to go through. Usually, I put the nut back on a bit to keep from damaging the bolt end to where the nut won't go back on. Nut is easily removed by hand once the bolt drops.

The Frontier is better than the prior LX-4 I had because the stump jumper stays in place.

Hope you have about a 6 ft piece of pipe to put over your 3/4" drive socket handle as a "torque" wrench.

 

[jthibodeau89]

Best bet for enlarging the hole would be to use a mag mount drill with the appropriate annular cutter, or perhaps a 40A plasma cutter. Is there a steel fab shop near you that could open the hole up? Recutting the hole would be a 10 minute job with an annular cutter or plasma. Any neighbors or friends have a plasma cutter? If i were nearby, I'd tote my plasma over and have it done in 10 minutes. Unfortunately Dallas TX area is a 12hr drive from TN.

 

[WranglerX]

IF you don't need to remove a massive amount of material maybe a rotary file in electric drill or air tool...

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61xuGhrNpOL._AC_SL1100_.jpg

Dale

 

[Smokeydog]

Need a side grinder. Maybe could sharpen the blades in place. Removes metal much quicker than bench grinder. Don’t cost much and good for lots of other chores.

If need to remove blades, switch to a cutting disc and “V” notch the access hole thru the deck to get to the nut. $3 and 1 minute job. Not sure if accessing alignment is manufacturer flaw or damage? Might take penetration oil and heat to get the nut loose. Having a helper for R&R helps too.

Got to have tools to work. I’ll bet on brains over brawn every time.

 

[hosspuller]

Harbor Freight tools sell a low cost angle grinder ... Like about $10. It won't stand constant use, but for a couple of blades ... It'll do.

When I changed blades on my cutter, it took some heat on one of the bolts. I replaced the pair of bolts/nuts and you should too. If the blade bolt breaks, the blade becomes a lethal projectile.