Failed attempt to smooth property, how to correct?

[sandman2234]

I mow 10 acres at the Church that was cleared to dig a retention pond. The "groundskeeper" mowed part of it one time and said "nope, too rough!!!". I suggested he invest in a tractor, but hauling it would require an investment of a truck and larger trailer. My continuous mowing has smoothed it out some, but no nearly enough for a ZT. He still wants the additional income of the added property, but buying a new tractor won't work. Last time I talked to him, I suggested a used tractor in the 70 hp range, and the biggest finish mower he can afford! He just can't make the numbers work. The O/P wouldn't have to haul it, so a truck and trailer wouldn't be required. A used tractor and finish mower would make it look like a yard till it could be smoothed out enough to run a zt on it. The right tractor and big enough finish mower and the O/P would probably park that zt as far as doing the open fields. ZT's work great in areas where turning is required, but the long wheelbase of a tractor will make the ride so much better!
(in my career, the cabover truck went by the way, replaced by a longnose for just this reason)
David from jax

 

[chief1950]

For a 6 acre plot, an efficient method of smoothing and grading is better accomplished by a good dozer operator. They make their living by building an accurate grade and the machine itself weighs enough to compact the soil to the point large sized landscaping equipment breaks up the ridges made by the tracks, land planes, boxblades, york rakes, grader blades on the back of say an L size Kubota, 7 series John Deere, or larger with landscaping tires (wide treads w/ small nubby surface) leave a very nice surface. Dragging a chain harrow to finish would prep to seeding level. Hard to say for sure, but if the farmer used Ag tires (narrow, with large 3" deep treads leave the ground compacted only at the bottom of the tread and creates a rougher surface after rain. Thia is helpful when cropping but dies make for a very uneven bumpy lawn. Sorry for all your trouble and less than successful expense.

 

[airbiscuit]

This is the picture before the farmer smoothed it. A buldozer isn't going to improve that much. It would could easily be mowed with a rough cut mower as is. It got better after that. I'm guessing better than a pasture but not as good as a lawn, The OP wants a lawn. He will figure things out eventually.

 

[Diggin It]

That's a great deal more smooth than my 'lawn'.

Really not sure there's any more to do that time won't do naturally.

 

[beenthere]

Yes, having some land has been a long dream of mine. Now that I have a little piece, I am trying to see what equipment makes most sense for my application. The funds for a tractor aren't there right now, so I'm using multiple pieces of equipment to accomplish tasks. Right now it consists of a zero turn for the lawn and a UTV for snow plowing and other miscellaneous things.

The ideal situation would be to have the land smooth that the zero turn handles the mowing without rattling my teeth out. I thought that would be the case after the land was sorted out by the farmer, but as mentioned earlier, that is not the case. If the land can't be improved by a land roller or something, (starting from scratch is not an option), then I will probably end up selling the zero turn and getting a tow behind mower for the UTV.

I apologize for asking so many questions. I like to ask questions to those more experienced and knowledgeable than myself in hopes of absorbing some information to apply in my world.

The easiest solution given what you have told us (me) is to get a lawn roller and use it after the ground is just coming out of frost and after a good soaking rain.
And get the largest diameter tires possible for your ZT.
Rome wasn't built in a day, as the saying goes. A few years and you will have the lawn you want to mow.
My mowing consists of 8 acres and 80% of it is old farm land and pasture. It is mowable with my JD 455 with 54" deck.. going on 25 years since the farm land was added that is now lawn. Turned itself into bluegrass.. I just spray for weeds, roll, and mow.

 

[oosik]

I have two and a half acres that I mow. About 70% of this is grassy meadows. Grassy meadows will always be a tad rough around here. I've used my LPGS on about an acre and got it just like a pool table. Next year - here comes the pocket gophers. My property is in the middle of open range land. I've trapped pocket gophers some years. For every gopher trapped there are two more - in the wings - waiting to "come on down". I just slow down in the rough areas.

 

[redman135]

3 points, 1) are you mowing with the drill run(direction seed drilled into ground)? If you are mowing across the drill run you will have a rough ride.
2) If you use a roller then roll on the diagonal to the drill run as this will help smooth the ground
3) Fescue is a clump type grass, so this growth characteristic will contribute to the bumpy pasture. Rye grass and blue grass have low growing points and will be a smoother surface to mow over. I would suggest using an ag tractor and hay mower to mow 5 of the 6 acres and concetrate on improving 1 acre at a time.

 

[denchen]

How about getting a chain harrow and some say 3 by 3 timbers and tie them to the harrow from front to back. That way, every time you go over the field, the bottom of the hollows are not touched, but the high bits take the weight of the harrow and drag soil into the low bits without killing the grass. Let the grass recover for say 2 or 3 weeks, then over again. Eventually the field will get flatter and flatter with the original grass.

 

[Dynasty]

Here is a quick clip of the area being mowed. Some areas or worse than this and some areas are better than this.

Even when riding over the property in a Polaris Ranger UTV, rough areas can still be felt.

 

[npalen]

Slightly off topic here, but will K31 Fescue eventually spread to fill a bare spot?