Failed attempt to smooth property, how to correct?

[airbiscuit]

I can't vouch for this seat, but maybe getting a decent suspension seat for your zero turn is a modest next step.

 

[CallMeChaz]

In the 45 years before I retired as a Property Manager, I did (successfully) what you are trying to do dozens of times. First--of COURSE you can get a farm field mowing-smooth with no ruts, irregularities, erosion, roots, etc. Even a perfect lawn was once a rough field or forest. Second, there is no one best piece of equipment or technique. It totally depends on the soil you are working with, and the condition it is in before you start. Most people are NOT going to get the results you want using standard farm equipment. That's like getting a house painter to paint your car with a brush and roller! A residential "lawn" require landscape equipment/attachments. Think rough grading, stone raking, possibly tilling, more stone raking, finish grading, hand raking, light rolling [heavy rollers are NOT used for lawns or fields]. For a "smooth field", IF the soil is pulverized (no "clumps") you probably need to rough grade, stone rake, final grade and stone rake again if needed. I've done it hands-on for decades. I can probably do 1/4-1/2 acre of field-smoothing in a day myself, that would be pleasant to mow. Every step you skip adds more roughness that you will live with FOREVER. I mow my 5 acre field with a brush-hog. If you insist on using a residential mower, there are no short-cuts to what you seek.

 

[gravity]

Yes, having some land has been a long dream of mine. Now that I have a little piece, I am trying to see what equipment makes most sense for my application. The funds for a tractor aren't there right now, so I'm using multiple pieces of equipment to accomplish tasks. Right now it consists of a zero turn for the lawn and a UTV for snow plowing and other miscellaneous things.

The ideal situation would be to have the land smooth that the zero turn handles the mowing without rattling my teeth out. I thought that would be the case after the land was sorted out by the farmer, but as mentioned earlier, that is not the case. If the land can't be improved by a land roller or something, (starting from scratch is not an option), then I will probably end up selling the zero turn and getting a tow behind mower for the UTV.

I apologize for asking so many questions. I like to ask questions to those more experienced and knowledgeable than myself in hopes of absorbing some information to apply in my world.

If your z900 does not have a suspension seat that would be the absolute next and most economical solution to your problem. Northern tool has/had one for about $350 that I have used with great results mowing my acres with a zero turn (looks like they're now $400-500).

 

[shooterdon]

Buying a tractor to do what needs to be done makes no sense unless you have other uses for it. That is a lot of money to get a lawn IMO.

One option...do you want/need 6 acres of lawn immediately? Would some of the area be OK as a wild flower field? I found the video of the Swedish guy who built a homemade leveler/top dresser interesting. I can see that as a way to handle up to 2 acres of lawn relatively inexpensively. Certainly worth a try. Then leave the other 4 acres to be handled by your farmer friend and bushhog it 3-4 times a year.

If you want more lawn, do an acre a year a year with that Swedish idea. You would have your 6 acres of lawn in another 4 years with the biggest expense being soil. The issue will be handling soil as you do not have a tractor. Bagged is expensive but a pickup truck or trailer would let you get a cubic yard bulk topsoil at a time. BTW figure 1100-1500 lbs per cubic yard of topsoil.

We tend to get wrapped up in instant gratification but that normally means spending more money.

I would be reluctant to sell the ZT if the end game was to have a lot of grass to cut.

 

[Shadow_River]

Some farmer in your area should have a large roller 10 - 15 ft wide about as big around as a 55 gallon barrel. They are typically filled with water for weight. If you could get your hands on one of these that should work. Getting it to your property is your biggest problem, but the roller is the solution. Wait until the ground is slightly damp, (not wet) and then roll it in each direction if necessary.

You could pull it yourself with a pickup truck. This would not destroy any grass as a land plane would.

I roll my fields every time I plant and early every other year.. My back just isn't up to task even with a )are tractor and a very good seat.

Your acreage just being plowed and planted a year ago should still be loose enough to get what you are looking for.

That's what I would do.

The problem is getting the roller to your place. You can add the water once you get it delivered.

 

[Shadow_River]

If you go this route make sure you make wide turns and and start out slow. The roller will push your truck when you turn sharp or apply your brakes. You will learn very fast !

 

[repete]

I will wager that the farmer who did the field plants a new crop each year and never experiences with his fields what you are currently experiencing.
I have had this happen as well and you will need a real piece of equipment to correct it. Not a little lawn mower. The problem with working the dirt down deep is you leave voids that will only compact (settle) over time. When the farmer finished I bet it looked nice. Then it rained and the dirt began to fill the voids deeper down in the soil causing the unevenness
Have someone spray the grass to kill it. Till thoroughly the top 3-6 inches, use the plane to level it, roll it with the cultipacker and plane again and repeat that process a few times. It will be a lot of work but you will be attempting the impossible now to drag a plane over it or mow it with a ZT to eliminate the issue.
Just my two cents...

 

[Henry007]

I moved onto 6 acres of farm land and built a house. I mowed one Ohio mowing season and quickly realized the ground was uneven and rutted from the farm equipment that worked the land. It was beating me up as well as my zero turn. So, I talked to a local farmer to smooth out the land and put down grass seed for a more traditional lawn look. In fall 2020, the farmer disked, chisel plowed, and used a cultipacker to get the land looking better. Now, spring 2021, I mowed for the first time and I was still bouncing around. My lower back took a beating and the machine was not happy. How can this be?

Prior to the project starting, we discussed the goal of a very smooth surface so I can mow quick and not to slow down due to rough ground. The farmer said "no problem" and can take care of this. We agreed to a price. Prior to work being done, people would roll their ankles trying to walk in some areas of the property due to deep ruts. Now, walking is not an issue so I assumed mowing will be much more enjoyable. In the first few minutes of mowing, I was shocked how rough the ground still was.

With all that said, my question is: how do I correct this rough ground issue even after all the ground was was already performed?

Should I talk to the farmer that did the work and explain my concerns? Would he been in the right by telling me there is nothing more that can be done given he did the diskng, plowing, and rolled in the seed?

Is a big, heavy asphalt roller needed?

I'm open to all ideas. The desire to mow again with the current rough ground conditions is very low. It was not enjoyable for me or the machine.

 

[Henry007]

Slow down. A land roller may help id you do it when the ground is a little soft. Mowing looks best with a high blade rotation and a slow ground speed. Expect to roll the area every Spring because every winter when the soil is wet every thing that crosses the land will leave tracks.

 

[stuckmotor]

Rather than mow 6 acres of grass for the rest of my life, I'd be tempted to let most of it grow into a wood lot. If I enjoyed cutting grass, I might set up a lawn care business so my efforts would produce income instead of consuming it.