Want to buy a dump trailer, kinda torn here.

[Rock Crawler]

Im wondering now if I should go for the 16k, not sure the extra 1300$ is worth another 2000 pounds of payload.

If I were buying again I would likely go with a 16 foot gooseneck instead of the 14 foot bumper pull. I would also look at going up a step in payload. If your near Ohio I would suggest that you look at Application Trailers. They only sell straight from the manufacturer, there are no dealers. But because of that I got this one for a couple grand less than any PJ, Lamar, Iron Bull or anything else. I also speced it with the upgraded/ larger wheels and tires, the 7G deck floor, the roll out cover and the spare.

If you live across the country it likely would make any sense. But I called and made the deal over the phone. They email you a build out sheet with all options and price. You agree, sign and return it, call and make a deposit and your put in line in the factory. When it's built, you drive over and pay the balance and drive away. You get the inspection on your own in your state.

I would likely go with one of these in 16 foot and option on the 24" steel side walls, HD tires, spare and slide in ramps. The 19K GVW would be sweet! The 15K is a bit more affordable. No doubt that the gooseneck would be easier to live with. It shortens you up and allows you to jack knife yourself into much tougher spots.

The 15K $9,700 base and the 19K is $12,300 base. But to me those are lifetime purchases at my 50 years old time of life. I don't use mine for a living. I pick up side gigs now and again and use my trailers for my own convenience.

View attachment 695425View attachment 695426

 

[Rock Crawler]

I hate Tapatalk. View attachment 695428

 

[Rock Crawler]

I hate it even more now.

 

[bdog]

I’ll see how it does, I’ve been looking for a 1 ton but it’s not a great time for truck shopping right now. What I’ve pulled with it now it’s done better than I anticipated. I’d like a diesel but I don’t want the diesel bill if stuff goes south.

Make sure you are aware of all the regulatory implications once your truck GVWR and trailer GVWR added together exceed 26,000. This will likely happen with a one ton and a 14k trailer.

 

[Hay Dude]

The load. View attachment 695372

Looks very front loaded

 

[Hay Dude]

Im wondering now if I should go for the 16k, not sure the extra 1300$ is worth another 2000 pounds of payload.

Well and you are also getting heavier built.
You have a CDL?

 

[bdog]

Having had a DOT number for 13 years and dealing with all the associated regulatory crap I would highly recommend anyone stay under 26k unless they absolutely have to go over. It is pretty darn burdensome and they seem to add more and more you have to do all the time.

 

[Rock Crawler]

Looks very front loaded

That's because I was throwing out the rear. It was evenly loaded. It would nice a couple inches and stop, so I started throwing off the rear until it went. I'm aware that throwing off the front is much more effective, but then I'd have had to handle it twice.

 

[Rock Crawler]

Having had a DOT number for 13 years and dealing with all the associated regulatory crap I would highly recommend anyone stay under 26k unless they absolutely have to go over. It is pretty darn burdensome and they seem to add more and more you have to do all the time.

You don't need DOT numbers for private non commercial use.

 

[nikerret]

Assume you have a 4500 lb trailer with a 14K gross and 20 percent tongue weight transferred to the truck. You've got atoms 13,000 worth of legal payload in the trailer.

Your math is a bit off. If you have a 14k GVWR trailer that weighs 4,500 lbs, that leaves 9,500 lbs legal payload. Quite a bit less than the 13,000 you listed.

The GVWR is the most that vehicle is rated to weigh, at any time. Even alone, unhooked. A lot of companies account for tongue weight by building the trailer to handle more than just the axle capacities added together, but not all do.

For example, my 16’ Diamond C has two 7k axles, but has a GVWR of 14,900 lbs. The sticker on the side lists my trailer weight at 4,500 lbs. I’m not sure how they got that number, because it actually weighs around 5,160 lbs, empty, as it left the dealership. Sone if that increase is likely from the HD ramps I optioned. It weighs even more, now, since I also carry chains and boomers.

In hindsight, I should have got the 8k axles. I didn’t for a few reasons, but the main one was I didn’t want a gooseneck and the highest rated ball mount and ball I could find was rated for 16k. Going to the 8k axles moves the GVWR to 18k, on these trailers.

The reason I didn’t want a gooseneck was because of the types of jobs I was doing, at that time. I wanted to keep my flatbed clear, to carry attachments, bricks or other supplies, etc. Since then, my business has adapted and changed some. I’ve only used the bed two times in ways that would have interfered with the gooseneck. It would have been better to get the gooseneck and the 10k super singles, but those weren’t an option, at that time. There are other drawbacks to the super singles, but that’s another discussion. Another factor was a goosenecks tend to cut more of the corner, in forward turns, where bumper pull tends to track closer to the towing vehicle wheels. This was important, because most of my customers are residential single family homes. Of course, nothing is free. I‘ve paid Hell trying to get my bumper pull into a few places where a gooseneck would have been much easier.

If I was buying one, now, I would get the biggest I could, axle-wise, on a low-profile. It would be a gooseneck with a deck on the neck. But, that’s not what I have, so it’s not what I use.