Ford 8N or similar older types

[LD1]

For the benefit of others, the "orc", is an Overrunning clutch".
......It is necessary for operator safety, due to the somewhat primitive design of the 8N PTO

And be it an ORC, or a sleeve....gotta do something to adapt the 8N's 1-1/8" pto to the modern 1-3/8" Unless the whole shaft has already been changed

 

[Buckeye76]

Yea, thats what I love about those Ford 8N, 9N models... simplicity, ease of mx, and parts availability. I may get one and use it for a couple years, then buy a new JD 5 series down the road. Im aiming to find one that has been gone through w/rebuilt motor, painted, etc to keep the mx costs down until I can get something newer. Im just drawn to the tractor and its simplicity and its retro look, park it down the road after getting something newer, then clean it up and use it for pulling the kids around the yard for pumpkins or whatever lol Ive got a pretty strong work ethic and being a former and now retired Air Force jet mechanic, weather doesnt bother me that bad so lack of AC shouldnt be too bad for the next few years. Keep the advice coming, knowledge is good and will help me going into my first purchase. Thank you.

 

[Egon]

Nostalgia is great but for the OP’s purpose I’d suggest something like a used Kubota B7800 or JD 4200 of similar vintage.

Most of the older tractors like the 8N are good for pulling agricultural equipment on larger fields. They are not loader friendly or steer with ease. Brakes don’t really work that well. They work well for a sickle bar mower making hay but other rotary equipment not so good. Chains are usually required for snow or ice traction if there is much of either.

 

[Cycledude]

So many folks knocking the 8n because of no power steering, the 8n doesn’t need power steering it drives and turns VERY NICE without power steering.
If it had a front loader yes you definitely would want power steering but in my opinion a front loader on a 8n would be almost useless and more trouble than it’s worth.

 

[gary49]

You’re probably better off with something with live hydraulics, live PTO, and more gears than an 8N, but I will have to say that they’re pretty amazing as far as a “haul it out of the bushes and make it run tractor”. They’re pretty good with a 5’ finish mower, too, doesn’t tear up the grass much even with ag tires (unloaded). Converting it to 12volts is a good thing to do if it hasn’t already been done.

 

[Bark]

Love our old 9N (still 6 volts) but was sooooooo happy when we got the Kubota. With your flat land its not an issue but for us, even with ballast in the rears going across a grade is frightening esp without ROPS. I would definitely get a newer tractor with good hydraulics and a few more safety devices for the long run. I cant believe how we survived all this time without a good FEL.

 

[big bubba]

i'll 2nd the TO35. had one for 28 yrs. mine was a 4cyl notoriously hard starting. the newer MF135's came with a 3 cyl Perkins, more reliable engine. great tractor of it's time. i'd have a tractor savvy friend go look at those older models with you. my advice is to 1st look @ engine/trans/hyd/ & esp clutch. you don't want to replace one on those models. best regards

 

[rScotty]

If not an 8N or 9N, what would be a good recommendation for the work I might be doing under my budget of say $6k (listed in first post)?

Just to give an example, we still have a later example of the John Deere 2 cylinders. Ours is a 1960 JD530 2 cylinder that has power steering, clutchable PTO, power adjustable wheel width, quick detatchable loader, maybe the best 3pt hitch ever made, suspended seat with damping....the list goes on and on. It even has a mount for an umbrella - which JD still sells!
At 12K hrs it runs like a top. Parts are easy to find and reasonably priced. Makes max HP at 1175 RPM.
Downside is the same as any old tractor - they are a long throw manual shift, with a large turning radius.

Alternatively, there were many US-made awesome tractors built in the 1960s and 1970s. I would say that many of them have the same good points I have just listed. Look to the 40/50 hp Massey Ferguson and any of the John Deeres and Fords. Case made some nice ones, too. Do not be afraid of gassers; those old industrial gas engines are excellent.

I think you are better with the 1960 through 1980 models instead of the 1940 through 1955 model tractors like the 8n and NAA era Fords.
That way (1960 thru 1980) you will get a tractor with features that work well today. Much better transmissions, more modern hydraulics, and power steering - which is necessary for loader work.

Your budget of 6K should be able to find you an excellent tractor from that era. For that price it should be a cream puff, with attachments, and ready to work.
rScotty

 

[LyHale]

We have five acres in Washington State. Eleven years ago I bought a 1994 Ford 1720 with loader, plus a brush cutter, box scraper and auger. Several neighbors who own those foreign-made bright orange tractors have back hoes, so on the rare occasion when one is needed, it's easier to knock on a door than change out a heavy piece of equipment I've had to store. I have been very happy with the Ford. It's reliable, rugged, relatively rare, versatile and -- as a proud member of The Manual Gearbox Preservation Society -- it even allows me to shift for myself when I'm outstanding in my field.

 

[radnack]

The hardest thing to beat about an 8N is the price. I think a jubilee would be a decent upgrade with the live hydraulics. I use a 6 foot rear blade on my 8N with no problems. Ive graded my driveway several times and do a lot of brush hogging. Although if i had a larger budget i might be looking for something thats diesel with a little more horse power. Running the 5 foot mower really puts a load on it once it gets deep.

 

[easeup]

I have to chime in on the 8N also as a former owner of one. they are not the best choice for any job. and for the money, I can get more done easier with any chinese or later model tractor of your choice.
Congrats on the new place!

 

[arto98607]

With a 6k budget....I'd be looking to the 1980's. Ford 10-series like a 1710.....something like a deere 750/850/950/1050, Massey 230.

........snip...............

I think it will be tough to find any of those even in half-decent condition for $6000 at least here in our area!

 

[Bentrim]

Just a note from someone that was raised on a farm whose father bled green. but I went to work and found MF and MM, and some other breeds along the way. Now don't have any green ones left but do has some red ones filling the shed. As noted before the TO 35 in gas is a good tractor. Then came the MF 35 almost the same tractor but diesel started to creep in the picture. Early diesels used a Standard motors diesel (English) are hard to get parts for later ones used the IDI Perkins diesel. Then the model changed to 135 hood changed to resemble the bigger tractors mostly otherwise the same basic tractor. The engine choices were Z134 later Z145 Continental (4 cyl), D3.152 Perkins diesel (now DI) and same Perkins converted for gas. Then the 235 came along again upgraded hood and "improved" steering than was used on the previous 135. Quickly the 230/245 were brought out to remedy the steering "problem". Now hydrostatic steering. Most of the models were available with a HD front nonadjustable axle that is best for loader work. Although the swept back axle will work for loaders they can be a weak point. The 202, 203, 204, 204, later 2135, 20, 30, were industrial models basically same tractor most equipped with a "hard nose" , even some had Instant Reverse (a hydraulic reverser).

Now the good . These tractor from the TO 35 to the later tractors of the 90's and possibly later used the same design and a lot of parts are interchangeable as for the power train. That said parts are readily available. Most that have used and or owned on say the 135 is a tough tractor to beat. The Perkins diesel is very fuel efficient. Some people used to think they made fuel and said they did not have to refill very often when used a lot. The Perkins has a good reputation and are usually easy to repair and keep running.

The Bad: MF made these tractor just about like a burger joint--You could have it your way. When looking at a tractor note the hydraulics, clutch, and steering and transmission.
Hydraulics: Most only used the scotch yoke pump, some had another auxiliary pump added. The scotch yoke pump "runs" the three point hitch it can be used for auxiliaries but it can be confusing and the hitch and valve cannot be used at the same time. The auxiliary pump when equipped runs the auxiliary valve and leaves the scotch yoke pump to run the hitch.

Clutch: A single clutch was used on the economy versions similar to the 8N. Then a two stage was used one stage for the transmission and do to the "floor" for the PTO to stop and start of course the hydraulic works with the PTO. Later tractors has what was referred to as a split torque clutch basically a single stage to control the transmission but the PTO and hydraulic run whenever the engine runs.

PTO single stage clutches was a "transmission driven" PTO Two stage clutch use what most refer to a a "live PTO" the second stage of the clutch controls the PTO. Then the "independent PTO" a separate lever engages or disengages the PTO without any clutching or stopping and only stops when the lever is moved to off.
Transmission: 3 speed, 4 speed, or multi power. All transmissions have a shorter stick on the right side for High, Start, Low so you wind up with a 6 speed, 8 speed, or 12 speed. BUT for a new tractor driver / owner I do not recommend the Multi Power as it freewheels in low when going down hills. The industrial versions also used a mechanical or hydraulic reverser.
Steering: Power steering or nonpower. The To35, 35, and 135 are basically the same, easily repairable and adjustable. BUT they are not great for loaders they can 'blow out' the cylinder if abused also the swept back axle can wear and the radius rods can be bent if used or abused with a loader as I said before the industrial axle or 230/245 and later axle work best for a loader.

As for service and parts Agco still carries most parts although at a price. There are aftermarket suppliers for most needed replacement parts some are almost at steal prices. www.agcopartsbooks.com for parts and www.agcopubs.com for service, parts, operators manuals. Yes they even list the manuals for the older models just looked up for the TO35.

The MF make a great tractor for this size, parts are readily available, and they are fairly easy to service. Would say it if I didn't keep a few around. A TO35, 20 (industrial 135) and a 245 with a 232 loader. Enjoy the all and get a lot of work done. Just disappointed I can't run'em all at the same time

 

[TASMAN17]

for what it's worth I had a similar journey, started with an 8N on my first place of about 5 acres, mostly due to budget. Did all I asked of it but there were definitely limitations. I used it to bush hog some pasture, scrape and plow a 150' gravel drive. Without a live PTO you really couldn't back into fenced corners and then start your cutting very well because of the time it took for the blades to pick up speed. Traction even with loaded tires made winter plowing on even a slight slope difficult. Still, it did what I asked of it, even used the back blade at an angle to dig a 300' ditch for electric. After about 4 years I started debating chains, but I had already decided I really needed a loader. In my opinion the 8N, as others have said, really doesn't have the front end to handle the weight of and steering with a loader, not even the old dump bucket pipe style one. So I bit the bullet and got a new 30hp 3cy diesel Compact with HST, Loader, live PTO etc. Very quickly became the tractor I used all the time, even on a small acreage the loader was indispensable - from moving dirt and gravel to lifting and pushing in posts etc. The 8N after that only gets used once in a while to shuttle trailers around now. 16 yrs later and on a larger 50a place now, getting a Utility (Compact's weight needs to be bigger for some of the forestry tasks I need to do) and wife says one of the two small ones needs to go, and as retro-cool as the 8N looks, it will probably be the one to give up it's space in the shed. I still have lots of uses for a small footprint/turning tractor, but having one with a full functional loader is just too impossible to give up.

So pretty much I'm echo'ing what others seem to be saying, if you can find a newer more modern tractor, definitely a better starting point if you are going to have one go-to machine for a while. And having a little more weight and a fully functional loader right from the get-go will give you a lot more flexibility so you can upgrade when you want to, not because you need to, even if you have to stretch your starting budget a little. Good luck with your decision

 

[TASMAN17]

All that said though, the old girl does still look cool. Maybe I can just hide her around the back...

 

[NH3930Turbo]

I think an 8N would suit your needs well. I'd probably look for something newer like a Ford 3000, good tractor all around and less problematic than the old gasser 8n.

 

[Will Corsair]

New member here! I have a question and looking for advice! We have bought a 5 acre plot and plan on building a house, pole barn, long gravel driveway. And maybe have a few animals. The land is almost perfectly flat as it is currently a farmers field so no serious grades. Im a gearhead car / truck guy, so I really like the older retro Ford 8Ns and they seem to have a good reputation. Im also an Aircraft Mechanic by trade, so Im not afraid of having to fix it if needed and also the simplicity of it also played a factor in this choice and plentiful parts from what I can see. I plan on mowing, grading (a spot for the pole barn and my driveway annually or more), plowing a small garden area maybe 1/4 acre, and using the PTO Auger but other than that, just general work. What are yalls opinions on these older tractors for general work? Thanks ahead of time fellas!

Here's my two cents:

You never really know what you're getting into with an older tractor, especially with owner mods. If you're an A&P then you can probably handle it, but just a word of caution.

As others have noted, the N-tractors are under-powered compared to newer ones and lack a FEL or BH. I only use my '48 8N for blading snow and cutting last year's Little Bluestem in spring pasture. The blade, as others have said, isn't good for much because the hydraulics aren't very strong and they're not live hydraulics to boot (they run off the drive train).

Any equipment that requires hydraulics is out.

If you purchase one, MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL AN OVER-RUN CLUTCH FOR SAFETY REASONS. See the web or other posts on this site for more info. It's simple to install, inexpensive, and can save life and limb. I'm a pilot and had safety drilled into me from my first lesson. These old tractors can be very dangerous and mine has scared the crap out of me on more than one occasion, especially going downhill, bouncing, making a turn, having all that spinning momentum behind me, and poor brakes. I can't emphasize enough how bad the brake design is.

The brakes on the N tractors absolutely suck. There's no real "parking brake" on them; just a pawl you manually engage to teeth on the inside of each rear wheel. Bad, bad design. If I need to get off the tractor and leave it running, I get on a reasonably flat place, stop, turn the steering wheel as far as it will go, and use that as a way of putting the tractor in a position where it's not going to roll.

Parts are plentiful and, in many cases, are better than the the OEM.

Recommendations: Look for Youtube videos on buying a used tractor. There are quite a number of them out there. Another place to stay tuned into is "Ask Tractor Mike" and his asktractormike.com website and Youtube channel. It's great info and advice from a tractor owner and someone who worked quite a while in a dealership.

Check the condition of the tires. Tires are really expensive and one of those things that you can't "fix" if they're buggered up and on their last legs. That's one of those things that first-time buyers of used equipment sometimes overlook.

Lastly, there's something very positive to be said for one of the old N-series and it's that they're good machines to learn on. I've only had mine for 5 years and I've learned a huge amount at modest expense and time. That said, if I knew then what I know now, I'd have spent more money and gotten a better machine.

Good luck.

 

[JethroB]

In 1975 my dad replaced an 8N with a new MF 135 Deluxe diesel. ($5000 IIRC) I don’t recall any of us ever missing the 8N. Wonderful upgrade. Six speed with the notoriously leaky power steering assist. But 46 years and 5,000+ hours it’s still going strong. I wouldn’t want a bulky loader on it though.

 

[Williy]

I can remember back in the early 50's uncle had an
old he said it was a 1020 great big heavy iron monster.
You could her a hernia just trying to steer the darn thing. I think it had the left and right brake pedals other wise you could not make a short turn. The neighbor said he was going to buy a new JD and it was a big one all I can remember is it was very big and green and he said he was going to pull that old 1020 back wards. What actually happened was uncle put that old 1020 in first gear and let the clutch out and it didn't even snort and the big green machine just kept going back wards with the wheels spinning away.

willy

 

[can do]

I would say going old school is not always bad! I started with a 1959 M-F 50 25 years ago as my 1st tractor & she is still being used today & has the 134 gasoline engine 34 HP ( Continental ) & You should recognize this engine manufacture they built aircraft engines as well. I've used this tractor for grading, snow removal, post hole digging,logging,scooping& dumping dirt,moving fire wood & last a log spliter & I only did 3 upgrades to her 1st external hydraulic control valve for rear remotes for the log spliter 2nd electronic ignition,You don't have to do tune ups other than replace distributor cap & rotor button & spark plugs will last allot longer & last I converted to a vertical
exhaust & all this work was done without a front end loader (fel) or a backhoe (bh) I have replaced all the tires, But that is considered normal wear &tear .Implements I bought for the tractor scrapper blade, scoop&dump bucket,pallet forks, & log spliter all work off the 3 point hitch Total cost of tractor without up grades used $4,000 with implements $2,500 total & keep in mind most of the implements cost was from 25 years ago & don't go cheap on the implements
So I got into my tractor for $6,500 & one other thing I like about my M-F 50 is the parts that are still available thru AGCO & NAPA & TSC. & there is restoration part supply companies as well.I did buy a new tractor in 2018 with a FEL & 4wd to work with my 1 ton dump truck & now I don't have to switch most of my implements out for different work. My new tractor is a M-F 1526 Compact & both of these tractors compliment each other as far as what they can do & can't do.But the M-F 50 has been a work horse & I will not part with her & she will not be put out to pasture as long as I have the need for a working tractor & welcome aboard TractorByNet & if You decide to go old school go a little newer or with a tractor with more features ,The M-F 50 was a good choice for me.