Ford 8N or similar older types

[LD1]

For the benefit of others, the "orc", is an Overrunning clutch".
......It is necessary for operator safety, due to the somewhat primitive design of the 8N PTO

And be it an ORC, or a sleeve....gotta do something to adapt the 8N's 1-1/8" pto to the modern 1-3/8" Unless the whole shaft has already been changed

 

[Buckeye76]

Yea, thats what I love about those Ford 8N, 9N models... simplicity, ease of mx, and parts availability. I may get one and use it for a couple years, then buy a new JD 5 series down the road. Im aiming to find one that has been gone through w/rebuilt motor, painted, etc to keep the mx costs down until I can get something newer. Im just drawn to the tractor and its simplicity and its retro look, park it down the road after getting something newer, then clean it up and use it for pulling the kids around the yard for pumpkins or whatever lol Ive got a pretty strong work ethic and being a former and now retired Air Force jet mechanic, weather doesnt bother me that bad so lack of AC shouldnt be too bad for the next few years. Keep the advice coming, knowledge is good and will help me going into my first purchase. Thank you.

 

[Egon]

Nostalgia is great but for the OP’s purpose I’d suggest something like a used Kubota B7800 or JD 4200 of similar vintage.

Most of the older tractors like the 8N are good for pulling agricultural equipment on larger fields. They are not loader friendly or steer with ease. Brakes don’t really work that well. They work well for a sickle bar mower making hay but other rotary equipment not so good. Chains are usually required for snow or ice traction if there is much of either.

 

[Cycledude]

So many folks knocking the 8n because of no power steering, the 8n doesn’t need power steering it drives and turns VERY NICE without power steering.
If it had a front loader yes you definitely would want power steering but in my opinion a front loader on a 8n would be almost useless and more trouble than it’s worth.

 

[gary49]

You’re probably better off with something with live hydraulics, live PTO, and more gears than an 8N, but I will have to say that they’re pretty amazing as far as a “haul it out of the bushes and make it run tractor”. They’re pretty good with a 5’ finish mower, too, doesn’t tear up the grass much even with ag tires (unloaded). Converting it to 12volts is a good thing to do if it hasn’t already been done.

 

[Bark]

Love our old 9N (still 6 volts) but was sooooooo happy when we got the Kubota. With your flat land its not an issue but for us, even with ballast in the rears going across a grade is frightening esp without ROPS. I would definitely get a newer tractor with good hydraulics and a few more safety devices for the long run. I cant believe how we survived all this time without a good FEL.

 

[big bubba]

i'll 2nd the TO35. had one for 28 yrs. mine was a 4cyl notoriously hard starting. the newer MF135's came with a 3 cyl Perkins, more reliable engine. great tractor of it's time. i'd have a tractor savvy friend go look at those older models with you. my advice is to 1st look @ engine/trans/hyd/ & esp clutch. you don't want to replace one on those models. best regards

 

[rScotty]

If not an 8N or 9N, what would be a good recommendation for the work I might be doing under my budget of say $6k (listed in first post)?

Just to give an example, we still have a later example of the John Deere 2 cylinders. Ours is a 1960 JD530 2 cylinder that has power steering, clutchable PTO, power adjustable wheel width, quick detatchable loader, maybe the best 3pt hitch ever made, suspended seat with damping....the list goes on and on. It even has a mount for an umbrella - which JD still sells!
At 12K hrs it runs like a top. Parts are easy to find and reasonably priced. Makes max HP at 1175 RPM.
Downside is the same as any old tractor - they are a long throw manual shift, with a large turning radius.

Alternatively, there were many US-made awesome tractors built in the 1960s and 1970s. I would say that many of them have the same good points I have just listed. Look to the 40/50 hp Massey Ferguson and any of the John Deeres and Fords. Case made some nice ones, too. Do not be afraid of gassers; those old industrial gas engines are excellent.

I think you are better with the 1960 through 1980 models instead of the 1940 through 1955 model tractors like the 8n and NAA era Fords.
That way (1960 thru 1980) you will get a tractor with features that work well today. Much better transmissions, more modern hydraulics, and power steering - which is necessary for loader work.

Your budget of 6K should be able to find you an excellent tractor from that era. For that price it should be a cream puff, with attachments, and ready to work.
rScotty

 

[LyHale]

We have five acres in Washington State. Eleven years ago I bought a 1994 Ford 1720 with loader, plus a brush cutter, box scraper and auger. Several neighbors who own those foreign-made bright orange tractors have back hoes, so on the rare occasion when one is needed, it's easier to knock on a door than change out a heavy piece of equipment I've had to store. I have been very happy with the Ford. It's reliable, rugged, relatively rare, versatile and -- as a proud member of The Manual Gearbox Preservation Society -- it even allows me to shift for myself when I'm outstanding in my field.

 

[radnack]

The hardest thing to beat about an 8N is the price. I think a jubilee would be a decent upgrade with the live hydraulics. I use a 6 foot rear blade on my 8N with no problems. Ive graded my driveway several times and do a lot of brush hogging. Although if i had a larger budget i might be looking for something thats diesel with a little more horse power. Running the 5 foot mower really puts a load on it once it gets deep.