Why am I destroying tail wheel forks?????

[Redlands Okie]

An old timer told me to keep the front of the deck slightly lower than the back, where the grass discharges. This helps the grass discharge and keeps the tail wheel in solid contact with the ground most of the time. I've done that for ages and have never had any problem with the tail wheel or the forks. And yes, plenty of lube is always good policy.

Keeping the front a bit lower also helps since your only cutting the weeds once. If its level or high in the front your cutting more and needing more power to do so.

 

[CMV]

I should replace arrow #1 or #2 or either with chain?

If #2 I can picture that in my mind and looks like it would solve my problem. If #1, that's where I get confused since no matter how I set the BH down - on 4x4, on blocks, whatever, I have to adjust toplink to either attach or get the level correct and don't see how I'd do that with just a chain in place of arrow #1 without jacking up back of BH or something. I remove & ground the BH frequently.


Oh...and that PTO shaft cover was like that when I bought it. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

 

[Midniteoyl]

I should replace arrow #1 or #2 or either with chain?

If #2 I can picture that in my mind and looks like it would solve my problem. If #1, that's where I get confused since no matter how I set the BH down - on 4x4, on blocks, whatever, I have to adjust toplink to either attach or get the level correct and don't see how I'd do that with just a chain in place of arrow #1 without jacking up back of BH or something. I remove & ground the BH frequently.


Oh...and that PTO shaft cover was like that when I bought it. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

Dude.

Proper way is to raise the lower arms until you are at the mowing height you want, say 4" for example. Then, raise the 3pt hitch until the rear is 1" higher than the front (5" in this example).

Now lower your rear wheel until it hits the ground. If you need to go lower for the next hole, do so. Do not go back up one unless you want to cut more 'level' (not recommended), you want 1" or a little more.

Lower the 3pt back down until the front is back your mowing height (4"). Back wheel should be on the ground and taking weight.

Now, adjust your top link *out* until that U bracket you are pinned to is at a 45* down down, or a little more. Lock the top link.

That's it. You're done and set up. The way you have it now with that U bracket tight like that, you're *not* allowing the rear to pivot up if it needs too. Loosen that bad boy up.

Otherwise, replace #2 with chains.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Here. This is a finish mower, but the top link set up is the same:

 

[K5lwq]

I should replace arrow #1 or #2 or either with chain?

If #2 I can picture that in my mind and looks like it would solve my problem. If #1, that's where I get confused since no matter how I set the BH down - on 4x4, on blocks, whatever, I have to adjust toplink to either attach or get the level correct and don't see how I'd do that with just a chain in place of arrow #1 without jacking up back of BH or something. I remove & ground the BH frequently.


Oh...and that PTO shaft cover was like that when I bought it. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

I am going to suggest Something that might seem strange but will help you get a better understanding.

Take the top link completely off the tractor. Adjust the height of the front of your mower using your 3 pt lift, then start mowing. You will not be able to lift the tail Wheel off the ground but for mowing that is what you are after.

The only thing the top link is good for is lifting the mower off the ground to transport. It is not needed for mowing. The rear wheel carries the weight of the back of the mower and the lift arms carry the weight of the front. Hope that helps.

Now if you did not have the tail wheel you would have to adjust the top link to set mower height. Some mowers are designed that way but yours is not.

 

[WranglerX]

I should replace arrow #1 or #2 or either with chain?

If #2 I can picture that in my mind and looks like it would solve my problem. If #1, that's where I get confused since no matter how I set the BH down - on 4x4, on blocks, whatever, I have to adjust toplink to either attach or get the level correct and don't see how I'd do that with just a chain in place of arrow #1 without jacking up back of BH or something. I remove & ground the BH frequently.


Oh...and that PTO shaft cover was like that when I bought it. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

Just replace bars #2 with chains.... IT can be that simple....

 

[Tx Jim]

Just replace bars #2 with chains.... IT can be that simple....

Please explain any advantage of replacing black u-shaped link in photo with chains? Black link in photo if allowed to pivot by retaining bolt being loose enough for black link to pivot will allow tailwheel to be raised several inches without damage to tailwheel, TW bracket or 3 pt hitch.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Please explain any advantage of replacing black u-shaped link in photo with chains? Black link in photo if allowed to pivot by retaining bolt being loose enough for black link to pivot will allow tailwheel to be raised several inches without damage to tailwheel, TW bracket or 3 pt hitch.

I think you misunderstand:

#2 in OP's pic is not pointing to the U bracket (link), it's pointing to the 2 lift bars connected to the U bracket pivot bolt.

If the OP does not want to learn how to properly set up his bush hog and loosen up that U bracket to allow the tailwheel to raise when needed, *then* he should replace the #2 (the lift bars going to the rear) with chains. At that point it doesn't matter what OP does with the U bracket.

 

[WranglerX]

Your "U" bracket has limited among of flex or motion, if you have really rough terrain you may come up to the limit of "U" bracket motion and the whole linkage becomes a solid bar and it can still put strain on tail wheel.... Chains have no limitation of movement...

Try placing tractor and mower on flat ground and setup as you use it for mowing.... Use a jack to raise rear of mower, you may find you do not have enough motion for terrain you are mowing in....

 

[Tx Jim]

I think you misunderstand:

#2 in OP's pic is not pointing to the U bracket (link), it's pointing to the 2 lift bars connected to the U bracket pivot bolt.

If the OP does not want to learn how to properly set up his bush hog and loosen up that U bracket to allow the tailwheel to raise when needed, *then* he should replace the #2 (the lift bars going to the rear) with chains. At that point it doesn't matter what OP does with the U bracket.

NOPE I understand what was implied very well but I think you don't understand what the u-shaped part is intended to do if not securely clamped tight.

When tailwheel goes over a rise or berm IF BOLT doesn't have u-shaped piece held tightly the center link & u-shaped will pivot lower similar to a hinge on a gate allowing tailwheel/rear of cutter raise with no bending/destruction of parts. The u-shaped part has been performing similar that since I was 1st employed by a farm equipment dealer in 1965. I'll repeat no need to change lift bars(#2) to chains.