Rear blade angle cylinder protection

Thunder chicken · May 27, 2021

Found an old cylinder that is a bit long, will require a mod to the kingpin arm, but should be beefy enough, haha.

LD1 · May 27, 2021

What's the bore and rod sizes.

Looks like it will work. Find the mid point of the cylinder stroke....with the blade straight and that's where you want the pivot pin so you have equal travel either way. Just make sure it's far enough away that at full extend and full retract the head cap don't bottom again the frame of the blade.

Thunder chicken · May 28, 2021

LD, it’s a 2” rod and I’m guessing a 4 1/2” or 5” bore. 9-10” stroke. The original mount was 6” from the center of the kingpin, I’ll extend it out and it’ll now be 15” out. That in itself should reduce load on the cylinder greatly. This one is overkill in size but the price couldn’t be better! It’s an old cylinder my neighbour had in his ‘collection’, likely off an old grader or dozer.

LD1 · May 28, 2021

Thunder chicken said:
LD, it’s a 2” rod and I’m guessing a 4 1/2” or 5” bore. 9-10” stroke. The original mount was 6” from the center of the kingpin, I’ll extend it out and it’ll now be 15” out. That in itself should reduce load on the cylinder greatly. This one is overkill in size but the price couldn’t be better! It’s an old cylinder my neighbour had in his ‘collection’, likely off an old grader or dozer.

Larger cylinder and extending the pivot arm out will help tremendously. I just hope the 9-10" stroke is enough for you.

Since you are already gonna be fabbing....I'd make the new pivot arm a clevis style to better match the rod end of the cylinder.....rather than attached just on one side like you have it mocked up. Otherwise you will wear out the pivot points pretty quickly

MechanicalGuy · May 31, 2021

Free is nice but it won’t work without heavy modifications. It looks like a lot of work and welding to make it right and get bore centers lined up and parallel. Neither end of that cylinder is correct for mounting to your blade. You must straddle the clevis on each end. A cantilevered force will bend everything to hell quick. Might as well keep shopping for a new cylinder.

Thunder chicken · May 31, 2021

Ya I think you’re right. I took it apart today to see about a leaky seal, and it’s likely a $20-50 part/labour at the machine shop. A new cylinder that needs no fab work is $250.(Chinese supply store). But taking the rod out, whoa, rust!!! This thing was full of crap, even though I cycled it a few times into a pail there was still lots of crap inside it. The cylinder is rusty all along one spot from water sitting in it for years. Well, if nothing I have a 2” rod to donate for making big pins, or beefing up a future cylinder!