Electrical / romex mess

   / Electrical / romex mess #81  
The issue with romex in conduit is that it heats up too much at its maximum amperage due to two layers of plastic. If you're not near the limit on current, I wouldn't fret about putting conduit around it for a short distance & sealing the ends where it goes into the conduit with gobs of silicone. (But if you sue me when the water in your fountain catches on fire, I'll point out that I'm not pretending to be an expert, just a fellow cheapskate. The "safe" solution is always to hire an electrician, but...)
 
   / Electrical / romex mess
  • Thread Starter
#84  
You know, a simple schematic would help a lot of people do a better job of criticizing you. :ROFLMAO:
Or post incomplete vague descriptions -- slowly playing out important details but retracting a few as well. Then have the content sent out in an email blast to lure back long-dormant participants.

Sounds like a plan!! :LOL:
 
   / Electrical / romex mess #86  
This is one of those threads you need a big bowl of popcorn for, sit back and watch.
 
   / Electrical / romex mess #88  
Late to the party, but an electrician here. Just wanting to clarify that you CAN run Romex (type NM-B) in conduit.

NM, NMC, and NMS are covered in article 334 of the NEC. In fact in 334.15(B) the code specifically recommends rigid, intermediate, EMT, or PVC for protection from physical damage which is required when exposed.

Wires overheating from crowding isn't unique to type NM wires. Any wires pulled in conduit have to have to comply with the listed wire fill capicity for the given conduit type and size. NM wires having more insulation then say type THHN will fill a conduit more quickly, thus fewer actual conductors are allowed in a given pipe size. (Hope that makes sense)

Annex C in the NEC has tons of charts giving the listed fill capicity of the given type of conduit for the given size and type of wire. The actual rule that the charts are based off is that the combined cross sectional area of all conducts (plus insulation) in a conduit cannot exceed 40% the cross sectional area of interior of the conduit for any conduit over 30 inches.

What you CAN'T do is pull NM underground in conduit. The inside of underground conduit is considered a "wet location." (Warm air will cause condensation build up when it enters the pipe and sinks to the lower/cooler sections.). 334.10(A) states type NM is allowed only in "normally dry locations."

And all the "that's not UF" crowd made me cringe a bit. 😉
 
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   / Electrical / romex mess #89  
We have a light on a pole in our driveway. Its in a center circle bordered by pavers. I want to replace the light with a water feature.

I turned power off, removed the light and pole, and found two romex lines. One was still hot (don't ask!) They are about 2 feet below current grade, and about 3 feet below what the new grade will be.

I need to move these lines as the new water feature would be sitting right on top of them. I wish they were long enough to get to an electrical box on the edge of the circle, but they are not nearly long enough. And I still need power out there for the new pump.

I know you are not supposed to put romex in conduit. Nor splice wires and have electric junction boxes underground. But I'm stumped on what else to do?

Any ideas?
View attachment 701068
use gray electrical conduit, it is approved by electrical codes. you can use crimp connectors to splice the wire. the romex will be ok in the gray conduit. the other wire that goes where??? maybe a well pump. if you know it is hot turn one breaker at a time off until you find it. you can buy a cheap no touch electrical detector at home depot, lowes and other places for around $10.00
good luck
 

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