Finished putting in new fence posts for day and picking up tools. Turned key to start heard one click and then nothing at all. Towed tractor to barn took covers off and started testing. Battery was over 2.5 years old, so replaced it same thing. Went to battery chassis ground and removed it cleaned and put dielectric grease on and replaced. Had dash lights and all come on. Turned key to start lost all again. Found three wires that had chew marks on insulation in checking all the harnesses but no wires broken taped those and still nothing. Pulled relays and cleaned terminals still nothing. Pulled fuses nothing changes. Checked all fuses with ohm meter, all good. Pulled starter and placed charger + terminal to starter post and negative to starter case and motor operated so I assume it is good. Also cleaned the starter ground terminal. Had previous issue with ignition switch so replaced it and still same. The positive battery cable gets warm to the touch while doing all the testing etcetera. Anyone with a similar situation or suggestion?
New Holland 2002 TC40D No start, no lights, only fuel gauge and dim oil light on dash works
- Thread starter Larry950
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CausticUrbanCoast
Platinum Member
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- Mitsubishi
So... did you put the dielectric grease between the ground ring and chassis? If so take it off and clean between the ring and metal and screw threads.
Dielectric grease inhibits electrical connections, stops corrosion, high voltage can still jump through it, however low voltage (like ground connections will have problems).
Dielectric grease inhibits electrical connections, stops corrosion, high voltage can still jump through it, however low voltage (like ground connections will have problems).
Roadworthy
Elite Member
Dielectric grease is indeed an insulator and there is no way twelve volts will "jump" through it. It excludes oxygen and helps prevent corrosion. Be sure battery terminals and connectors are clean and tight, of course. The heat on your positive terminal indicates current is flowing somewhere. Is it always warm? That would indicate current flow. Leave the key in the off position, disconnect one of the cables at the battery, and insert an ammeter into the circuit. There should be virtually no current flow - just residual current draw by any electronics - less than an amp. Turn on your key but don't attempt to start the tractor. The current flow should increase but remain below, say, ten amps. If you have enough current flow to heat the battery cable you will drain your battery in short order. You may have more chewed spots than you think.
/ New Holland 2002 TC40D No start, no lights, only fuel gauge and dim oil light on dash works
#4
Thanks I will try that tomorrow.
/ New Holland 2002 TC40D No start, no lights, only fuel gauge and dim oil light on dash works
#5
Thanks I will try that tomorrow Saturday.
dlctcg
Platinum Member
The fact your battery cable get warm makes me think... either battery cables (pos or neg) have internal corrosion or you are not getting 12V at the starter solenoid.... But here are some things to help with the diagnostics...
This is some info that I have posted previously that may help with the diagnosis.... I'm at work right now so just copied it....
Cable Test:
Older New Holland battery cables often corrode inside the terminal where it is sometimes impossible to see; not sure it was an issue with your particular yr / model... You will often have voltage so everything seems good. (gauges & all are working). So you will have voltage but they will not supply the required Amperage.
You can test if there is an issue with your existing battery cables pretty simply.
Remove the negative battery cable & then take a negative jumper cable wire and place it on the bare negative post of your tractor battery. Connect the other end to a solid clean ground of the tractor (bare metal location). Try starting the tractor & see if that makes a difference...
If that doesn't change anything you can do the same process on the positive post. Disconnect the Negative jumper from the Battery terminal. Then using your positive jumper cable attach one end to where the positive battery cable connects to the starter (connect this end first), and the other end to the positive battery post (last). Make sure the jumper cable is not able to arc to near by metal. Now reconnect the Negative jumper cable to the battery & try starting the tractor again & see if that changes anything...
Doing this process you basically bypassed the battery cables on the machine, and then can troubleshoot from there. I wouldn't put any more parts on it till I checked the factory cables...
Ignition Switch:
These are also prone to issues & can cause the issue your describing. (I'll see if I can find a testing procedure).... but check to see if you have voltage at the starter solenoid when the key is turned to start..
Starter Solenoid:
Make sure you have 12V at the starter solenoid when you turn the key to START...
If you see voltage only sometime I'm thinking it either a spotty ground or Ignition switch.
If you are see voltage Each time to turn the key yo the START position but it is less than 12V this will definitely cause an inconsistent starting issue. This circuit shares the voltage source this the glow plug timer (& I believe passes through some of the safety switches). Overtime the wiring & connection get dirty / lose there ability to pass the voltage. You can modify the current wiring & add a dedicated relay for supplying direct power to the starter solenoid via the same circuits. I did this on our TC40D & it made a big difference for our machine
WranglerX
Super Member
Not really.... Yes dielectric grease prevents corrosion, but does not stop voltage/amperage flow.... Secret is good MECHANICAL CONNECTION protected with dielectric grease...
I use it on everything from bolted to compressed (crimped) connection on terminals and all my batteries and such on all my vehicles and never had a problem caused by dielectric grease...
In telecommunications industry dielectric grease is part of the standard procedure to do crimped or bolted DC "power" connections...
CausticUrbanCoast
Platinum Member
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I hope you mean something like OX-guard which is an alloy oxidation inhibitor and not a dielectric.
WranglerX
Super Member
I use No-ox-id at battery connections....
Silicone based (I believed) dielectric grease at almost all other electrical connections...
Including:
Batteries in flashlights and TV remote controls.
All 12 volt connections in "automotive" wiring.
All automotive lamps and sockets.
Cordless power tools.
Light bulbs in house wiring (incandescent and LED- Sold as "light bulb grease").
Wire nut connection on in ground sprinkler system valves...
Again the secret here is solid "mechanical connection"...
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dlctcg
Platinum Member
I really don't thick Dielectric Grease is your issue (I've been know to be wrong in the past & I'm not looking to discuss / argue the dielectric grease debate) but unless you have an entire tube of it in there preventing a tight connection... it's not your issue. Been using it in professionally in the field for electrical, telecommunications, & data connections since the early 90's & I don't think I could ever say Dielectric grease was the reason for failure on a properly tightened connection.
If your main battery cables are heating up it triggers a sign of resistance, which is a common problem with the NH cables they have internal corrosion that I mentioned in my first post (test them).
But now that I have time to re-read your post you mention "only fuel gauge and dim oil light on dash works".... are you not seeing the glow plug light cycle on & then off? That is a different issue...
If your main battery cables are heating up it triggers a sign of resistance, which is a common problem with the NH cables they have internal corrosion that I mentioned in my first post (test them).
But now that I have time to re-read your post you mention "only fuel gauge and dim oil light on dash works".... are you not seeing the glow plug light cycle on & then off? That is a different issue...
