New Holland 2002 TC40D No start, no lights, only fuel gauge and dim oil light on dash works

[Larry950]

I really don't thick Dielectric Grease is your issue (I've been know to be wrong in the past & I'm not looking to discuss / argue the dielectric grease debate) but unless you have an entire tube of it in there preventing a tight connection... it's not your issue. Been using it in professionally in the field for electrical, telecommunications, & data connections since the early 90's & I don't think I could ever say Dielectric grease was the reason for failure on a properly tightened connection.

If your main battery cables are heating up it triggers a sign of resistance, which is a common problem with the NH cables they have internal corrosion that I mentioned in my first post (test them).

But now that I have time to re-read your post you mention "only fuel gauge and dim oil light on dash works".... are you not seeing the glow plug light cycle on & then off? That is a different issue...

No not seeing that light cycle. As soon as the key is turned to start--nothing.

 

[Larry950]

The fact your battery cable get warm makes me think... either battery cables (pos or neg) have internal corrosion or you are not getting 12V at the starter solenoid.... But here are some things to help with the diagnostics...



This is some info that I have posted previously that may help with the diagnosis.... I'm at work right now so just copied it....

Cable Test:
Older New Holland battery cables often corrode inside the terminal where it is sometimes impossible to see; not sure it was an issue with your particular yr / model... You will often have voltage so everything seems good. (gauges & all are working). So you will have voltage but they will not supply the required Amperage.

You can test if there is an issue with your existing battery cables pretty simply.

Remove the negative battery cable & then take a negative jumper cable wire and place it on the bare negative post of your tractor battery. Connect the other end to a solid clean ground of the tractor (bare metal location). Try starting the tractor & see if that makes a difference...

If that doesn't change anything you can do the same process on the positive post. Disconnect the Negative jumper from the Battery terminal. Then using your positive jumper cable attach one end to where the positive battery cable connects to the starter (connect this end first), and the other end to the positive battery post (last). Make sure the jumper cable is not able to arc to near by metal. Now reconnect the Negative jumper cable to the battery & try starting the tractor again & see if that changes anything...

Doing this process you basically bypassed the battery cables on the machine, and then can troubleshoot from there. I wouldn't put any more parts on it till I checked the factory cables...


Ignition Switch:
These are also prone to issues & can cause the issue your describing. (I'll see if I can find a testing procedure).... but check to see if you have voltage at the starter solenoid when the key is turned to start..

Starter Solenoid:
Make sure you have 12V at the starter solenoid when you turn the key to START...

If you see voltage only sometime I'm thinking it either a spotty ground or Ignition switch.

If you are see voltage Each time to turn the key yo the START position but it is less than 12V this will definitely cause an inconsistent starting issue. This circuit shares the voltage source this the glow plug timer (& I believe passes through some of the safety switches). Overtime the wiring & connection get dirty / lose there ability to pass the voltage. You can modify the current wiring & add a dedicated relay for supplying direct power to the starter solenoid via the same circuits. I did this on our TC40D & it made a big difference for our machine

I should also note that replaced the negative battery cable and then had all lights work on the dash when key turned to ON position. As soon as turn to START everything goes off. When key goes back to ON position only have fuel gauge and very dim oil light on.

 

[Larry950]

What is best way to test solenoid?

 

[Larry950]

The fact your battery cable get warm makes me think... either battery cables (pos or neg) have internal corrosion or you are not getting 12V at the starter solenoid.... But here are some things to help with the diagnostics...



This is some info that I have posted previously that may help with the diagnosis.... I'm at work right now so just copied it....

Cable Test:
Older New Holland battery cables often corrode inside the terminal where it is sometimes impossible to see; not sure it was an issue with your particular yr / model... You will often have voltage so everything seems good. (gauges & all are working). So you will have voltage but they will not supply the required Amperage.

You can test if there is an issue with your existing battery cables pretty simply.

Remove the negative battery cable & then take a negative jumper cable wire and place it on the bare negative post of your tractor battery. Connect the other end to a solid clean ground of the tractor (bare metal location). Try starting the tractor & see if that makes a difference...

If that doesn't change anything you can do the same process on the positive post. Disconnect the Negative jumper from the Battery terminal. Then using your positive jumper cable attach one end to where the positive battery cable connects to the starter (connect this end first), and the other end to the positive battery post (last). Make sure the jumper cable is not able to arc to near by metal. Now reconnect the Negative jumper cable to the battery & try starting the tractor again & see if that changes anything...

Doing this process you basically bypassed the battery cables on the machine, and then can troubleshoot from there. I wouldn't put any more parts on it till I checked the factory cables...


Ignition Switch:
These are also prone to issues & can cause the issue your describing. (I'll see if I can find a testing procedure).... but check to see if you have voltage at the starter solenoid when the key is turned to start..

Starter Solenoid:
Make sure you have 12V at the starter solenoid when you turn the key to START...

If you see voltage only sometime I'm thinking it either a spotty ground or Ignition switch.

If you are see voltage Each time to turn the key yo the START position but it is less than 12V this will definitely cause an inconsistent starting issue. This circuit shares the voltage source this the glow plug timer (& I believe passes through some of the safety switches). Overtime the wiring & connection get dirty / lose there ability to pass the voltage. You can modify the current wiring & add a dedicated relay for supplying direct power to the starter solenoid via the same circuits. I did this on our TC40D & it made a big difference for our machine

 

[Larry950]

Thanks. How did you modify your tractor if I may ask?

 

[Larry950]

Thanks. How did you modify your tractor if I may ask?

 

[Larry950]

No not seeing that light cycle. As soon as the key is turned to start--nothing.

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

Break out your multimeter, start with your voltage potentials and testing your ignition switch never hurts (I have only had one go bad). You are dropping power across something.

 

[gejandsons]

You can use a multimeter or test light to check for leaks on cables and connectors.

usually heat build up is resistance.

if your positive cable is getting hot put your multimeter leads on each end and see if it’s showing voltage.

 

[sunbeam67]

Test lights are a great tool if you place it accross a connection and apply power and it lights up you have a problem . Hook the clip lead to the + post of the battery and the point on the starter post if it lights you have issue work your way back across ever connection until you don't get a light. Double check by going accross that connection. Same holds true for grounds.