Looking for build ideas for a "Zero Drift Herbicide Applicator"

[workinonit]

I had a wick bar applicator for years that I used on Johnson grass and bahaia. It worked great and would be so simple to make. The thing with the wick bar is the plant you want to kill has to be higher than the plant you don't want to kill.

 

[NormL]

I had a wick bar applicator for years that I used on Johnson grass and bahaia. It worked great and would be so simple to make. The thing with the wick bar is the plant you want to kill has to be higher than the plant you don't want to kill.

Workinonit, you've pointed out the reason I am trying a gravity fed drip system first. The weeds I wish to target (dandelions and thistles, etc.) are not all standing higher than the grass. Some are, but not all of them. For that reason, I will be using a herbicide which targets broadleaf weeds. Because of the wind factor I spoke of in my first post, I don't want to spray as that invites drift. Another consideration is the mix rate. Can I dilute the herbicide a bit more since the drip should be applying more liquid than the spray? I'll have to look up Johnson Grass to see if that's the same as what we call Crab or Couch Grass.

 

[LD1]

I think putting some shields on an already proven spray system will be alot easier than trying to make your own wicking system. OR at the very least....get one of the wicking applicators already posted. Why re-invent the wheel?

Once you get out in the open of the yard, drift becomes much less of a concern.

IF whatever day I decide to spray my yard is windier than I like....I spay the bulk of everything and stay far enough away from flowers and the garden. Then I can go back with my backpak sprayer that I have alot more control over and hit around the edges

 

[NormL]

Workinonit, you've pointed out the reason I am trying a gravity fed drip system first. The weeds I wish to target (dandelions and thistles, etc.) are not all standing higher than the grass. Some are, but not all of them. For that reason, I will be using a herbicide which targets broadleaf weeds. Because of the wind factor I spoke of in my first post, I don't want to spray as that invites drift. Another consideration is the mix rate. Can I dilute the herbicide a bit more since the drip should be applying more liquid than the spray? I'll have to look up Johnson Grass to see if that's the same as what we call Crab or Couch Grass.

Just looked up Johnson Grass and it's not anything like Crab Grass. The thing about Crab G is that it does not depend on seed to propagate. Rhizomes below ground result in grass-like blades popping up all over the place around the host plant. Pull up the plant and leave a small bit of the rhizome, it just starts another host plant!! Grrr...

 

[NormL]

I think putting some shields on an already proven spray system will be alot easier than trying to make your own wicking system. OR at the very least....get one of the wicking applicators already posted. Why re-invent the wheel?

Once you get out in the open of the yard, drift becomes much less of a concern.

IF whatever day I decide to spray my yard is windier than I like....I spay the bulk of everything and stay far enough away from flowers and the garden. Then I can go back with my backpak sprayer that I have alot more control over and hit around the edges

If my "re-invention of the wheel" proves to be a failure I will have to follow your good advice. In the meantime I get to play with my tools and exercise my "greymatter" in the pursuit of new ways to achieve the goals I seek! There! I said it and if folks think I'm crazy, they're probably right!

 

[oldnslo]

Is an option to run spray nozzles closer to the ground to reduce drift? Most sprayers seem to be designed to run 16 -18 inches above the crop is thaws lowered to 6 or 8 inches would that reduce drift? Can you get nozzles that will work that close to the ground and still provide coverage.

 

[workinonit]

Yea, crabgrass and Johnson grass are differnt headaches. Crabgrass grows low to the ground. Your wick will need to be very low. Is you ground that level? I like the idea of more nozzles very close to the ground at a lower pressure. You would basically eliminate any drift if you do that. BTW, we were using Roundup on the wick bar setup we had. You obviously can't do that. The reason we used the wick bar on JG was because it was in corn and anything that killed the grass would kill the corn. This was back before they had Roundup Ready corn and bean seed. None of this is an issue any longer.

 

[fried1765]

I had a wick bar applicator for years that I used on Johnson grass and bahaia. It worked great and would be so simple to make. The thing with the wick bar is the plant you want to kill has to be higher than the plant you don't want to kill.

Agri Supply sells several types of wick bars, both hand held, and pull behind.
1-800-345-0169
Great folks to buy stuff from!

 

[workinonit]

They sell just about everything.

 

[Sberry]

What is it you are trying to protect from drift? With a selective like 2-4-D it might not be such a concern. Its not the same as roundup that kills everything and is super sensitive where even a little will kill a plant. Might even take quite a bit to injure neighbor plants, and they make a couple flavors of it, one is a bit more volatile. You can add some oil to it, they do have a couple adjutants, couple to reduce drift and spread it some.
This drip idea is not really a good plan. The rate wont be right and some not designed to be a drench, they designed to use a specific or within a range of water per acre.
They do NOT want it running off the plant. Its not the correct method for this application. Most that are using wick are using roundup. They are wicking taller weeds.