Bent bucket cyl on model 48 backhoe

[LD1]

In the first post you asked if anyone had specs for the cylinder on that backhoe but you have failed to give a model of the hoe?

Regarding a cylinder.....There should be nothing wrong with your current cross tubes. They are the right pin diameter and right width and no clearance issues. So simply shop for a cylinder that has the right bore, stroke, and rod diameter. Dont worry about what ends it has.....clevis, swivel eye, cross tube, etc. Sometimes one is cheaper than the other. Simply cut them off and disregard whatever comes on the cylinder that fits your specs. Then cut YOUR cross tubes off and weld on the new cylinder. Dont get much simpler than that.

 

[beenthere]

LD1, more than one model 48?

 

[DanMc77]

I chose this cylinder in part because the hydraulic fittings are oriented properly. I want to keep the modifications to the cylinder at a minimum, so bushings are preferable to me rather rather than replacing the base mount. I have some 1 1/4” 4140 TGP left over from pins I made for the thumb. I can use that. I may have to machine down the base pin tube if they’re too wide. I’ll use the pin tube off the original cylinder to weld onto the new one.
This is funny. I just finished replacing one of the stabilizer cylinders because I got sloppy and let a rock drop on the chrome rod. Then the next day this happens and I’m back replacing another one.

 

[bindian]

I bent a stabilizer cylinder rod on my Bradco 511. Mahindra didn't have a new rod available. But Houston Hydraulics rebuilt my rod, including welding the old mount on the rod for $200. I replace all my own seals.
hugs, Brandi

 

[LD1]

I chose this cylinder in part because the hydraulic fittings are oriented properly. I want to keep the modifications to the cylinder at a minimum, so bushings are preferable to me rather rather than replacing the base mount. I have some 1 1/4” 4140 TGP left over from pins I made for the thumb. I can use that. I may have to machine down the base pin tube if they’re too wide. I’ll use the pin tube off the original cylinder to weld onto the new one.
This is funny. I just finished replacing one of the stabilizer cylinders because I got sloppy and let a rock drop on the chrome rod. Then the next day this happens and I’m back replacing another one.

Going with bushings means you are downsizing the pins. That could very well be the next weakest link

 

[DanMc77]

Going with bushings means you are downsizing the pins. That could very well be the next weakest link

Agreed. But if Magister sells this cylinder with 1 1/4” pin tubes, that gives me some confidence that a 1 1/4” is ok. After all, the original cylinder has 1 1/4” on the rod end. It seems a bit goofy that JD would have different size pins on the same cylinder: 1 1/4” on the rod end, and 1 1/2” on the base end.

 

[ptsg]

I say you will be fine with 1 1/4" pins and bushings to make it fit the 1 1/2". If it ends up breaking, although unlikely, you can always modify the eye on the cylinder and make it work with the bigger pin.

On my homemade backhoe, I used 24 mm (~15/16") and 20 mm (~25/32") pins, which are actually made out of 10.9 grade metric bolts with just the threaded section cut off. I have yet to break a pin and that thing is used and abused beyond it was designed for, but that was exactly why I built a backhoe from scratch, so I would be afraid of breaking the tractor, had I made a 3 pt one.

Pics for reference:

 

[DanMc77]

PT: very cool backhoe. That’s pretty amazing work. I think stabilizers would make it even more amazing.

 

[ptsg]

PT: very cool backhoe. That’s pretty amazing work. I think stabilizers would make it even more amazing.

Thanks! Yes, it had stabilizers, although I had to manually apply those by lifting the machine, move the stabilizers down and put the pin on. This was not very practical, specially digging trenches, so I never really use the stabilizers much.

The machine handles alright without the stabilizers. Only tip it will lift the front, since it has a pivot point in the middle of the 2 rear axles, is when I'm digging stumps or rocks, or lifting something heavy. In those cases, I just put two blocks of wood between the subframe and the main chassis to prevent it from pivoting.

I think a rear blade would be more usefull and that's future plans for the machine.

 

[DanMc77]

Thanks! Yes, it had stabilizers, although I had to manually apply those by lifting the machine, move the stabilizers down and put the pin on. This was not very practical, specially digging trenches, so I never really use the stabilizers much.

The machine handles alright without the stabilizers. Only tip it will lift the front, since it has a pivot point in the middle of the 2 rear axles, is when I'm digging stumps or rocks, or lifting something heavy. In those cases, I just put two blocks of wood between the subframe and the main chassis to prevent it from pivoting.

I think a rear blade would be more usefull and that's future plans for the machine.

The mini excavators don’t have stabilizers, but have a blade that can serve the same purpose, so your comment makes a lot is sense. I think maybe their tracks are wide and stiff enough to handle the load.

Looks like you dug up a dinosaur turd.