On mine a 1/8" drill bit fits into the gap (or free play) easily. On the rod end a 3/32" drill bit fits in the gap. I don't know how many hours are on it - perhaps a couple of hundred but the backhoe has been working well since I bought it new in 2006.How does the width of the tube on the cylinder base compare to the gap between the the mounting plates on the dipper? The clearance should be on the order of 1mm in order to keep the pin in shear and minimize bending moment.
At this point I don't have an exact measurement of the gap in the dipper. I haven't pulled the old cylinder body out yet, mostly because I wanted to keep the hoses connected until I'm ready to put the new cylinder in. Your comment of a tight tolerance is a helpful insight, so I'll have to be prepared with some shim washers to tighten it up if needed. Additionally, there could be some error in the alignment of the rod end tube that we had to weld on. I'm inclined to run the machine a little while, then pull the rod pin out and examine the wear patterns. It may be good if there's a little slop at the top, so I can adjust the angle of the cylinder a little, if there are uneven marks left in the pin.Great info on the bushings. They should work just fine. How does the width of the tube on the cylinder base compare to the gap between the the mounting plates on the dipper? The clearance should be on the order of 1mm in order to keep the pin in shear and minimize bending moment.
If I use the first one, the loader cylinder, that has 1 1/4" pins. Couldn't I use a 1 1/4" pin, then machine bushings to fit into the 1 1/2" bores in the dipper?
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