3-Point Hitch Need advice on top link height with finishing mower

[CausticUrbanCoast]

You realize that all you have to do for it to flop down is go over the crest of a hill right? It doesn't just stay there in all conditions, or even most conditions. Raise the implement and put it down it will fall down.

The difference is above and behind the pivot, at that point it can not fall down. If it is ahead and lower of the pivot the mower also cannot be lifted as there is no leverage, at best you can tilt the back up.

 

[Russ5160]

I’ve been around tractors for a good while but this is really confusing to me. I must be missing something. I purchased a 7 foot finishing mower for my tractor and the top link is too high on my tractor or the floating top link on the mower is too low. I purchased an 18 inch top link at HF just to see if that would fix the problem because mine was too long. Now the top link bangs up against the driveshaft which will not work. See photos and any advice will be appreciated.
View attachment 710661View attachment 710662

Remove bolt and the green attachment and extend the top link to reach where the bolt was and run pin thru it

 

[sea2summit]

The difference is above and behind the pivot, at that point it can not fall down. If it is ahead and lower of the pivot the mower also cannot be lifted as there is no leverage, at best you can tilt the back up.

The bottom arms are set so when you go over a hill/bump the front of the tractor drops and the rear of the mower is lower than the front of the mower. This would cause the toplink to go "taunt" and/or lift the rear of the mower. When it comes back down gravity will pull the toplink down and the pivot will be below the attachment point.

I don't know what you mean by tilt the back up. Lifting the bottom arms will lift the front of the mower until the toplink takes a load to lift the mower, if it can at that adjustment.

I've got to go look at the manual but I'm pretty sure my BrushHog finish mower said it should adjusted to sag 2" below the pin on the mower. That's the way I've always done it anyway, lets the mower float as needed but doesn't take too much to lift the mower as needed.

I think in the OP's case the tractor frame may be too large for the mower (cat 2?) so the geometry is messed up for him.

 

[Snowflakes]

I would use a shorter top link. It will pick up the slack and be more away from the driveshaft.

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

The bottom arms are set so when you go over a hill/bump the front of the tractor drops and the rear of the mower is lower than the front of the mower. This would cause the toplink to go "taunt" and/or lift the rear of the mower. When it comes back down gravity will pull the toplink down and the pivot will be below the attachment point.

I don't know what you mean by tilt the back up. Lifting the bottom arms will lift the front of the mower until the toplink takes a load to lift the mower, if it can at that adjustment.

I've got to go look at the manual but I'm pretty sure my BrushHog finish mower said it should adjusted to sag 2" below the pin on the mower. That's the way I've always done it anyway, lets the mower float as needed but doesn't take too much to lift the mower as needed.

I think in the OP's case the tractor frame may be too large for the mower (cat 2?) so the geometry is messed up for him.

The same thing. Your middle paragraph is the problem being addressed.

 

[CADplans]

The same thing. Your middle paragraph is the problem being addressed.

The back of the mower must be able to travel up and down in relation to the front of the mower.
If the top link is too short, as the rear drops to follow the terrain, the top link becomes tight, and lifts the rear wheels off the lawn.

It was mentioned that you could run with no top link.
Without a top link, you can never lift the rear of the mower.
How do you go over a stump, rock, or other obstacle? Mow around it?
How do you travel down the paved road to mow your daughters lawn 1/4 mile away, if the wheels of the back of the mower are touching? What, travel 5MPH so you do not destroy the gauge wheels??
How would you cross a ditch ??
You need the capability to lift the mower, unless,, again,, you are on a pool table.

There are other answers, like the kit that will adapt the mower to a quick hitch,,
but, those answers cost $$$.

Here is another pic of a different Woods mower that I have owned,
the same answer for that part.

A simple cut of the swiveling part, and drilling the new holes costs almost nothing.

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

The back of the mower must be able to travel up and down in relation to the front of the mower.
If the top link is too short, as the rear drops to follow the terrain, the top link becomes tight, and lifts the rear wheels off the lawn.

It was mentioned that you could run with no top link.
Without a top link, you can never lift the rear of the mower.
How do you go over a stump, rock, or other obstacle? Mow around it?
How do you travel down the paved road to mow your daughters lawn 1/4 mile away, if the wheels of the back of the mower are touching? What, travel 5MPH so you do not destroy the gauge wheels??
How would you cross a ditch ??
You need the capability to lift the mower, unless,, again,, you are on a pool table.

There are other answers, like the kit that will adapt the mower to a quick hitch,,
but, those answers cost $$$.

Here is another pic of a different Woods mower that I have owned,
the same answer for that part.View attachment 710715

A simple cut of the swiveling part, and drilling the new holes costs almost nothing.

... not overly following what you are addressing.

 

[LittleBill21]

pretty sure you just have to move these 2 bolts down to adjust the angle, i see 0 reason to modify a brand new machine

https://imgur.com/TkpzFQl

 

[JWR]

I’ll check my draft control as well, thank you.

Nah, this is not a Draft control issue. (IMO of course.)

 

[JWR]

Thank you again for your help and the photos! I’m trying that in the morning.

No, that arrangement for the flex mower/clevis style end of the top link is not good. If you look at his picture (home welding, black metal) that leaves very little leeway for the mower to go up when crossing ditches, etc. and could/will try to shove the top link forward tending to suspend the whole tractor/mower rig in the air above the ditch (!) It won't but it will do damage trying.