Tractors and wood! Show your pics

   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #18,291  
DAY OF DISCOVERY

Learned a lot today. Some I fixed, some I still have to fix, some I'll have to learn how to fix, and some I'll have to ignore.

Yesterday the blade came off. Tension adjustment was an issue. I looked at my bar-inside-bar theory with a hammer today. Bar is indeed SUPPOSED
to move within the other for blade tension. Not enough room for a real hammer so I used a claw hammer and beat it like it owed me money.
It moved enough to confirm my theory and loosened, then tightened the blade. It was, and essentially still is seized.

View attachment 711302

Got the blade back on and turned it all by hand a 1/2 dozen turns. The blades are not tracking evenly.
View attachment 711303

Loosened all the guides and reset everything. Originally I didn't put the guides against anything; just left them a hair away. They weren't touching anything when I got this thing so I figured leave well enough alone.
Today I set everything the way you-tube has been telling me to.
The horizontal guide bearing looked like it was supposed to keep the blade running in a certain place so I set it to juuuust touch the blade. Blade sits low, but the wear showing is from past use so.....
View attachment 711304

The blade hits the top cover but it looks like it's been doing that all along and doesn't even leave wear marks.
View attachment 711305
View attachment 711306

Late in the day I tried some cutting after all the adjustments and I'm getting some climb of the blade.
These are side views of the boards.
View attachment 711307
View attachment 711308

IIRC this is caused by the blade not running flat on the wheel, or guides. Not sure if it's a major issue at the moment because I'm
just needing to cut "landscape" timbers. I was also cutting at full RPM for the first time, and faster feed as I get more familiar and confident.

Using the level as a straight edge......

---------------------------------------------------------------

In the close-up picture of the blade guide, it looks like the blade points are very dull. Also, the blade cover being bent down and the blade rubbing on it will dull the edge of the teeth. The teeth are "set" left and right from the blade to make a slightly wider cut in the wood to prevent binding/friction/heat from the main part of the blade. Dulling one "side" of the blade and the teeth being dull also is likely the cause of the wavy cuts. Straighten out the cover so the blade doesn't rub on it and sharpen/set or get a new blade and you should see improvement in your cuts.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #18,292  
In the close-up picture of the blade guide, it looks like the blade points are very dull. Also, the blade cover being bent down and the blade rubbing on it will dull the edge of the teeth. The teeth are "set" left and right from the blade to make a slightly wider cut in the wood to prevent binding/friction/heat from the main part of the blade. Dulling one "side" of the blade and the teeth being dull also is likely the cause of the wavy cuts. Straighten out the cover so the blade doesn't rub on it and sharpen/set or get a new blade and you should see improvement in your cuts.
In the plan.
The blade touching the cover, whether it is leaving wear marks or not, is affecting something. Didn't have the tools to try and straighten it.

I gave the teeth a little touch with the finger yesterday. The points are very "picky", but not uniform at all. They all feel different.
In my mind that means they need sharpening. That reminds me. I have to charge some tool batteries. I think I'll use a sanding drum or grinder "drum" like
they have for a dremmel tool. No hydro out there, was never any good with a file, and youtube showed me a dremmel for sharpening.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #18,293  
In the plan.
The blade touching the cover, whether it is leaving wear marks or not, is affecting something. Didn't have the tools to try and straighten it.

I gave the teeth a little touch with the finger yesterday. The points are very "picky", but not uniform at all. They all feel different.
In my mind that means they need sharpening. That reminds me. I have to charge some tool batteries. I think I'll use a sanding drum or grinder "drum" like
they have for a dremmel tool. No hydro out there, was never any good with a file, and youtube showed me a dremmel for sharpening.
A dremmel will work, kind of, I've used one a couple times but nothing like a new blade and heck depending on the size they are only 15-20 bucks.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #18,295  
A dremmel will work, kind of, I've used one a couple times but nothing like a new blade and heck depending on the size they are only 15-20 bucks.
I don't have a rechargable dremmel so I'll have to use a drill with a dremmel-type drum or grinding wheel. Forgot to put batteries on charge for my drill.
I didn't spend a lot of time looking for blades, but in passing, the ones I saw were a 5 pack for $250.
Not my mill, so after putting a $500 engine on it (I'll call that rent when combined with the free wood) I'm not anxious to spend any more money on this unit.
 
Last edited:
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #18,296  
Learned a bunch more today. What a learning curve !

As advised, blade tension does affect the cut, and could cause the wavy cut I got.
I tightened the blade, by feel, and finished off other set up stuff and fed slower. No wavy cuts today.
My blade is running pretty close to even now after setting up guides etc. There is still a less-than-parallel shaft but it's
not making enough difference for me to frig with. I'm only cutting landscape timbers. Not an exact science.

Other things I learned today;
My great grandparents were tough mofos !!! This milling stuff is hard enough, let alone what it must have been
like back in the homesteading days. From cutting trees with handsaws and axes, pulling stumps with mules, making usable lumber
either by hand or some kind of manual mill. Better men than I.

Sawdust gets EVERYWHERE! If your cooler is wet it clumps on there pretty good.

Takes a lot of room around a sawmill to make a place where you're not tripping over slabs, tools, levers, whatever.

It's messy. Bark falling off all around. Sawdust blowing in the wind.

Shims are handy to keep around although I'm not sure I was using them right.

Trees look a lot bigger than they actually are when you start trying to get them cut up. Thought I was going to get 8x8, but struggling
to get 6x6.
---------------

So today I spent about 5 hours at it. Still hot as hell here so took lots of breaks.
I'm not sure what I was doing wrong, because now I'm learning about setting up the logs to cut, and I had a couple that
should have come out as needed, by my measurements and marking, but ended up being kind of a door wedge. Wider on one
end than the other.
I started looking at measuring the "pith" (is that the term?) and setting both ends at the same height using shims. It was info I
must have seen in a vid somewhere over the last weeks. Anyway, didn't work as planned. I ended up with a couple 6x5 1/2 somehow :)
I'll use those for stairs within my retaining wall area.

Slow work by yourself, especially moving logs with tongs. They kind of swing and do funny stuff when setting them on the deck. It'd be
much easier if there was someone around to manhandle them as you lower etc.

In the end - the mill is working well enough for me. Any cuts I mess up can be used elsewhere in my project.
I've also decided that I'm concentrating on making a clean top and bottom cut, the sides I can call "rustic look" in my wall. I've only got
so much time to get the first section of wall replaced and I need about 80 boards for that part. And lots more for the rest of the project
that's not time sensitive.

I used common sense to mark my cuts and finally got a full 6"x6" timber.
Then I was over heated and ran out of smokes. Tomorrow is another day.

1630354157135.jpeg
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #18,297  
Learned a bunch more today. What a learning curve !

As advised, blade tension does affect the cut, and could cause the wavy cut I got.
I tightened the blade, by feel, and finished off other set up stuff and fed slower. No wavy cuts today.
My blade is running pretty close to even now after setting up guides etc. There is still a less-than-parallel shaft but it's
not making enough difference for me to frig with. I'm only cutting landscape timbers. Not an exact science.

Other things I learned today;
My great grandparents were tough mofos !!! This milling stuff is hard enough, let alone what it must have been
like back in the homesteading days. From cutting trees with handsaws and axes, pulling stumps with mules, making usable lumber
either by hand or some kind of manual mill. Better men than I.

Sawdust gets EVERYWHERE! If your cooler is wet it clumps on there pretty good.

Takes a lot of room around a sawmill to make a place where you're not tripping over slabs, tools, levers, whatever.

It's messy. Bark falling off all around. Sawdust blowing in the wind.

Shims are handy to keep around although I'm not sure I was using them right.

Trees look a lot bigger than they actually are when you start trying to get them cut up. Thought I was going to get 8x8, but struggling
to get 6x6.
---------------

So today I spent about 5 hours at it. Still hot as hell here so took lots of breaks.
I'm not sure what I was doing wrong, because now I'm learning about setting up the logs to cut, and I had a couple that
should have come out as needed, by my measurements and marking, but ended up being kind of a door wedge. Wider on one
end than the other.
I started looking at measuring the "pith" (is that the term?) and setting both ends at the same height using shims. It was info I
must have seen in a vid somewhere over the last weeks. Anyway, didn't work as planned. I ended up with a couple 6x5 1/2 somehow :)
I'll use those for stairs within my retaining wall area.

Slow work by yourself, especially moving logs with tongs. They kind of swing and do funny stuff when setting them on the deck. It'd be
much easier if there was someone around to manhandle them as you lower etc.

In the end - the mill is working well enough for me. Any cuts I mess up can be used elsewhere in my project.
I've also decided that I'm concentrating on making a clean top and bottom cut, the sides I can call "rustic look" in my wall. I've only got
so much time to get the first section of wall replaced and I need about 80 boards for that part. And lots more for the rest of the project
that's not time sensitive.

I used common sense to mark my cuts and finally got a full 6"x6" timber.
Then I was over heated and ran out of smokes. Tomorrow is another day.

View attachment 711702
Looks pretty good, and looks like a very dull blade. Those fibers hanging off the edge shows that blade is tearing the wood as much as cutting it. Do yourself a favor and get a new blade. Unless those blades are way bigger than mine the price you got of $250 per 5 is nuts. I paid $265 for 15 blades or about $17 each last time I got blades.
I have a scissor jack at the head end of my saw to make the blade parallel to the pith/center.. Sawyer Rob I believe has toe boards that does the same thing only fancier. You can see it in red in the pic, you can raise the one end to get the center centered.
 

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   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #18,298  
Looks pretty good, and looks like a very dull blade. Those fibers hanging off the edge shows that blade is tearing the wood as much as cutting it. Do yourself a favor and get a new blade. Unless those blades are way bigger than mine the price you got of $250 per 5 is nuts. I paid $265 for 15 blades or about $17 each last time I got blades.
I have a scissor jack at the head end of my saw to make the blade parallel to the pith/center.. Sawyer Rob I believe has toe boards that does the same thing only fancier. You can see it in red in the pic, you can raise the one end to get the center centered.
I was watching a Norwood how-to vid tonight and I noticed the same fibers on his cut too. Just an observation.
I checked quickly again on blade prices and they're wild expensive. A bit better price if you buy around 20 of them, but as I've said all along, not my saw so only prepared to put so much money into this. Other than that.... it's Canada, darn near everything is more expensive than the US.
I love that scissor jack idea. I had to manhandle logs and jam some shims under the one end. The trick is having a shim the width you need to get proper setting. I have a few different sizes put aside for that now. I'll be thinking about a jack next time. I'm thinking I could rig something up from a truck tire jack that may fit my budget if there's somewhere in the frame to mount it easily.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #18,299  
I was watching a Norwood how-to vid tonight and I noticed the same fibers on his cut too. Just an observation.
I checked quickly again on blade prices and they're wild expensive. A bit better price if you buy around 20 of them, but as I've said all along, not my saw so only prepared to put so much money into this. Other than that.... it's Canada, darn near everything is more expensive than the US.
I love that scissor jack idea. I had to manhandle logs and jam some shims under the one end. The trick is having a shim the width you need to get proper setting. I have a few different sizes put aside for that now. I'll be thinking about a jack next time. I'm thinking I could rig something up from a truck tire jack that may fit my budget if there's somewhere in the frame to mount it easily.
What size are your blades? And I think the jack was $29.95 at Harbor Freight, I bolted it down so its always there.
 
   / Tractors and wood! Show your pics #18,300  
What size are your blades? And I think the jack was $29.95 at Harbor Freight, I bolted it down so its always there.
Don't know the length. I THINK the width is 1 1/4"
I never checked if we have harbor freight in Canada. Our equivalent is Princess Auto which is where I came across the blade prices first.
I just saw the word blades and price. I guess if you consider per blade it's fair. $28. Still not my sawmill though.
I was going to put a link in here for you to see but I'm not sure it's allowed????
$144 for 5 blades.
 

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