Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[Jstpssng]

Yes I have to unhook the dump trailer to dump. The truck bed is 14’ long, 7’ wide, and the sides are 2’ but the load height is more like 3.5’ average. 343 cubic foot of loose wood. So I’d say 2 cords maybe a little better. The trailer is 14’ long, 80” wide and 3’ sides.

I see some old pine logs in the foreground... do those go into firewood? If so the way you measure firewood isn’t the only thing different where you are.

Nice looking ‘98 GMC in the background. I had one like it, which was one of the best trucks I’ve ever owned.

 

[4570Man]

I see some old pine logs in the foreground... do those go into firewood? If so the way you measure firewood isn’t the only thing different where you are.

Nice looking ‘98 GMC in the background. I had one like it, which was one of the best trucks I’ve ever owned.

There’s just a pine log in the background. Everything else is hardwood primarily oak. I’d planned on taking the pine log and several other saw logs to the mill but it’s laid there too long now.

 

[Yogi05]

It’s just time to learn to sharpen a chain and do it so a new chain off the roll cuts like garbage in comparison.

I was trying to avoid that. Some take pride in being good at it, I'd rather not have to get good at it.

A new chain off the roll at the very least needs the rakers taken down, most of the time I’ll throw them on the grinder to adjust the angle from brand new so everything I’m working with is predictable.

Now I need some kind of grinder? Good Lord, does this stuff never end??

 

[Yogi05]

I finally had a full day to mill stuff. What a mess

Two of the trees I took down yesterday I was barely able to get 6x6s of them. More live edge left than I'd prefer.
I cut three logs out of those 2 trees before I started sorting through my supply for larger ones.

Loaded a big bugger on the deck, decided I could get two 6x6s out of it, so I tried something I never did before.
I cut her down the middle.
My poor old antique saw had the horse power, but there was some rubber squealing and the blade stopped.
I couldn't tell if it was the belt on the clutch or the blade slipping on the worn out drive wheels.
Had to back out and go really really slow.
So now I have 2 huge halves that I can't stand up to cut because the log dogs will not hold them securely.
I didn't think ahead on that one.
I've got a plan to make an attachable wedge sort of thingie to hold them in conjunction with the dogs.
(Sounds like another "what I did this weekend" kind of report in the making )

Yesterday I posted....

Something strange I'm finding is no matter how carefully I measure for 6x6" I often get 6x6 1/4. Not worth another cut for 1/4"

And today I noticed something interesting.
My bunks are 4 feet apart and I have been putting my 9 foot logs across 2 adjacent bunks.
I noticed today that one of those two bunks was missing a 1/4 inch plate on top of it.
I can't get my head around the geometry to confirm if this is my 1/4" problem because you'd think it would happen on all measurements
of the cant. Not 6 inches one way and 6 1/4 the other.
Either way I took a chance and tapped the plate on top of one of the bunks further down the rail and it comes off. I put that on the bunk
I'm using so now both have the plate. I haven't cut anything since so I can't confirm if it changed anything. (see the part about 2 big chunks
of wood I can't secure lol).
I gave up and went tree hunting for next time instead.

Seems I always have Eore-like negative stuff happening all the time but I mostly shake my head, shrug it off, and carry on. Positive attitude wins.

On the bright side.... my water-dripper-on-the-blade device seems to work, and I spoke to someone about that 4 inch deep well on the property and he pointed
out there is a water tap in a pump shed that supplies water for our solar-powered washrooms, so I won't have to hump water from home.

Here's the plate on the bunk. Without it, the rear bunk would be 1/4" lower than the front. Fixed.

And this is where I go to calm down and find my next trees (which I measured this time)

 

[Skeans1]

I was trying to avoid that. Some take pride in being good at it, I'd rather not have to get good at it.



Now I need some kind of grinder? Good Lord, does this stuff never end??

You don’t have to have a grinder but it sure helps a lot it’s a tool when used correctly makes for a good cutting chain. Do you need as many grinders as I have? No, but I have different grinders setup for different applications. Just give you an idea I have one that does nothing but square ground chain, one that does nothing but depth gauges, and 4 others that do different types of round profile chains.

This one is a silvey pro sharp for doing square ground chain.

The next one is a depth gauges grinder a clone of a Silvey. In the background is a Silvey 500 for doing 404 to 1/4 round chains.

The next is a Silvey P&D 3/4” chain grinder.

The red one is a Tecomec super jolly for doing round chain of all sizes.

The first is an Oregon 511ax setup to do depth gauges but also can do round chain of all sizes.

 

[Jstpssng]

The down side of using a grinder is that it may harden the teeth so that you won't be able to sharpen them in the field. Therefore you will want to keep several chains on hand so that as one gets dull, you can swap out another.

Experiences may vary, I've only used one machine which belonged to a friend's son, so when that became dull again I had to throw it out and start over. I now keep a file guide and box of files for each sized chain, so that I can sharpen as needed. Fuel line is great to keep the files from getting bunged up in your tool box.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Measure from the back of the band to the top of each cross bunk to see if all the measurements are the same, they should be.

Put a 6x6 on the mill to lean the half log up against to mill it...

SR

 

[Jstpssng]

Measure from the back of the band to the top of each cross bunk to see if all the measurements are the same, they should be.

Put a 6x6 on the mill to lean the half log up against to mill it...

SR

I just added this to my list of hints, for when I start sawing.

 

[Skeans1]

The down side of using a grinder is that it may harden the teeth so that you won't be able to sharpen them in the field. Therefore you will want to keep several chains on hand so that as one gets dull, you can swap out another.

Experiences may vary, I've only used one machine which belonged to a friend's son, so when that became dull again I had to throw it out and start over. I now keep a file guide and box of files for each sized chain, so that I can sharpen as needed. Fuel line is great to keep the files from getting bunged up in your tool box.

I’ve always been told that a guy can file his 72 driver chain faster then it is to swap one out I’m willing to bet I could swap a 32 or 36 out quicker then a guy could file a 20. With that said I’d rather grind in the evening/afternoon there’s things I look for in a chain, speed, straightness of the cut for when I use just the pistol grip for sighting well cutting, then smoothness of the chain well cutting. You can adjust any of these three to have a great all around chain or go to side or the other for a little more performance.

As to the grinder hardening or burning a tooth it depends on the wheel as well as the operator using the grinder. If you’re using an aluminum oxide wheel it’s short fast chops to keep the heat out. If you’re using a cbn it’s a little different technique but the biggest thing is keeping the wheel clean from loading up will be the best for the cutter.

 

[Yogi05]

You don’t have to have a grinder but it sure helps a lot it’s a tool when used correctly makes for a good cutting chain. Do you need as many grinders as I have? No, but I have different grinders setup for different applications. Just give you an idea I have one that does nothing but square ground chain, one that does nothing but depth gauges, and 4 others that do different types of round profile chains.View attachment 717543
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This one is a silvey pro sharp for doing square ground chain.

The next one is a depth gauges grinder a clone of a Silvey. In the background is a Silvey 500 for doing 404 to 1/4 round chains.

The next is a Silvey P&D 3/4” chain grinder.

The red one is a Tecomec super jolly for doing round chain of all sizes.

The first is an Oregon 511ax setup to do depth gauges but also can do round chain of all sizes.

Umm, I'm thinking one of those clamp on jigs and a file may be more my skill level.