Best place to pick up a PTO driveline shaft?

[LouNY]

I would recommend a new Bare-C0 shaft and guard;
Bare Co USA - Home
and a shaft;
Bare Co USA - Integral Clutch Shaft

The reason I like these shafts are the guards are easy to unlatch and slid out of the way for greasing,
undo two swing out latches and slid half the guard back out of the way to grease the u=joint,
reconnect that end and repeat at the other end.
Makes greasing a shaft with compliant shielding much easier.

 

[oosik]

All of the local tractor dealers in our area - Kubota, Tym, Kioti, etc, have PTO shafts.

 

[RickB]

They are not the best... granted. I use one for my chipper/shredder and for as much as I use it, works just fine for me. Price was right!

All fine & good until they take something else out. If you're careful they can be effective. But it's far too easy to put the front PTO shaft u-joint at an untenable angle using an extender. I say that not so much for your benefit but for someone that may be considering an extender as a solution for a different application.

 

[jyoutz]

This was a low cost solution for the original poster (you are not the OP)... you, trying to high jack this thread for your own questions (instead of starting a new thread) and you are just confusing this post.

Sorry but it is what it is....

The original poster already had their question answered.

 

[DanMc77]

Yup, my question has been answered. A lot is being learned here. I already have my shaft pulled apart and ready once the new tube shows up. I have a Woodmaxx chipper, and had the opposite problem. I had to shorten that shaft by an inch. It’s super important not to have a shaft that’s too long, especially with the 2210. Jamming the shaft can crack the aluminum housing in the rear end of the tractor, and that’s a very expensive repair if you ask a JD dealer to do it.

On that same note, I’ll put in a weaker shear pin due to the weak PTO housing in this tractor. The current pin would be sized for a 35 hp tractor, so I’ll be experimenting with a weaker pin, starting out with a soft grade 3 1/4” bolt. I’ve used these as auger shear pins for years in my Model 47 “refrigerator” snow blower on the 332. They do a great job of letting loose when I hit something.

Edit: Thanks to RickB for the correction (below). I should have said grade 2 bolt.

 

[RickB]

Do more research on bolt hardness. There is no such thing as a grade 3 bolt.

 

[oldtimer 66]

It looks like your snow blower mounting is adjustable. Can't you shorten up the mounting to make/ allow the PTO shaft to work? It's difficult to see how much adjustment you have from your pictures. The side view shows that the snow blower is quite proud of the tractor, like you will have steering issues when the snow blower is lifted. Second item I see is that you are connected to the lower mounting holes. When you drop over a ledge sometimes the snow blower will lift/ 3 point is at max drop/ and you will not clean that area. I had to put addition mountings on my rear snow blower to minimize that problem. Just some thoughts. Later.

 

[DanMc77]

Good idea. It is possible that if I cut off the end of the 3pt mount and slipped it forward, that I could shorten it up about 3”. But then I’d have to redrill the mount hole because the existing hole is not in line with the others. Then the upper link bracket would need to be squeezed together about 1/2”. I think that’s still not enough overlap in the driveline tubes. With all that complication, lengthening one tube is pretty easy in comparison.

 

[DanMc77]

The longer tube arrived. U joint yoke tapped on (hard tapping), and pinned. U joint put back together and the tube cut to proper length. Need to find a piece of 2 1/2" dia plastic tubing to extend the shroud.

 

[mo1]

My pto shaft and connectors are beat up. I want to replace.

Those PTO shaft extensions are best avoided if possible. They have three major issues. One is that they are rigid, unlike the universal joint that is supposed to connect to the PTO shaft. The rigid extension acts as a lever on the PTO shaft if the PTO shaft is not perfectly level. This puts more force on the PTO shaft than it would otherwise encounter and can break things. Two, the PTO extension shaft puts the universal joint on the PTO driveline farther back, which can increase the angle the PTO driveline operates at. If there is too much of an angle, the universal joints don't flex properly and you break your driveline. This is much more of an issue with a short PTO driveline than a long one. Three, depending on the type of extension used, it can allow somebody to connect a 540 RPM 6-spline implement to a 1000 RPM PTO shaft on a tractor and destroy the implement by running it at almost twice its rated speed.