First issue with 1430, weak drive power.

[MossRoad]

I have had similar experiences to you and @marrt. Without mechanically tightening the filter on an oiled gasket, I get air bleeding in, and yes, I have tried both kinds of gaskets as well. Yes, I have also dented a couple of filters. These days, I try to ensure that the strap is right at the upper edge of the filter to reduce denting. I find fitting new gaskets to be a bit of a bear as well as it always seems that the gasket is too large a diameter, but, with perseverance, it goes in eventually.

Terry gave me the same advice to get it on as tight as I could when I had a persistent air leak at my first filter change. But, hey, @woodlandfarms if it works for you, "good on you" as the Aussies say. You must have a heck of hand grip.

All the best,

Peter

I've never used a wrench to put a filter on the PT. I just put it on until I can't turn it anymore with my hands. I make sure the filter is clean and so are my hands. I do have a decent grip strength, though.

Anyone here ever deal with sloan valves on commercial toilets? 50% of the time I can use my hands to remove the cap over the flush valve, not a wrench.

Never had a jar I couldn't open either, yet, many times my wife has to open my beer for me. Go figure.

 

[joshlee]

The filter on the 425 is in an awkward spot too! That’s amazing how you get that tight enough, although the filter is much smaller than ones for the 1430.

 

[MossRoad]

The filter on the 425 is in an awkward spot too! That’s amazing how you get that tight enough, although the filter is much smaller than ones for the 1430.

Mine's fairly easy to get to. I put several paper towels under it on the floor of the engine compartment. Then I crack it loose and make it snug again. Then I slip a 1 quart zip-lock freezer bag over it, and remove it. Most of the drips go into the bag. I do have to use a tool to remove it most of the time. But I never use a tool to put it back on.

 

[joshlee]

Oh that’s right, you an earlier model

Actually, the filter looks like it’s at about the same spot as the current model.

 

[MossRoad]

Oh that’s right, you an earlier model

Ya! 2001 model year.

 

[MossRoad]

Sheesh! 20 years flew by!!!

 

[SpringHollow]

I have no troubles opening jars etc. and always just put filters on by hand in all other applications. I am using a Rigid strap wrench to tighten the filter and then checking for air bubbles, repeating until the bubbles stop. Everything is cleaned and oiled - I have never tried it dry but that sounds like a bad idea to me. Recently, I bought some high quality band filter wrenches and will see how they do. The Rigid dents the can even though I only use it at the top or bottom of the filter. Replacing the filter is one of a few things I hate about the PT. My tractor is a higher pressure tractor than a 425. Not sure if that makes a difference on the suction side or not but I can believe it does. What bothers me more is that Woodland has no issues. It is possible the filter assembly should be replaced but the main problem in my opinion is that a "low" (relatively speaking) pressure filter design is being used in a suction situation. I find it hard to believe the the "L" shaped gasket would not easily seal in the normal application of this filter.

 

[RegL]

Ya! 2001 model year.

You must have taken that picture back in 2001. Way to clean.

 

[joshlee]

Ya! 2001 model year.

Isn’t the 2001 model the gem of the PT-425 fleet?

 

[MossRoad]

You must have taken that picture back in 2001. Way to clean.

Yep. It's nothing like that today.

 

[MossRoad]

Isn’t the 2001 model the gem of the PT-425 fleet?

Only because it's mine.

 

[ponytug]

I have no troubles opening jars etc. and always just put filters on by hand in all other applications. I am using a Rigid strap wrench to tighten the filter and then checking for air bubbles, repeating until the bubbles stop. Everything is cleaned and oiled - I have never tried it dry but that sounds like a bad idea to me. Recently, I bought some high quality band filter wrenches and will see how they do. The Rigid dents the can even though I only use it at the top or bottom of the filter. Replacing the filter is one of a few things I hate about the PT. My tractor is a higher pressure tractor than a 425. Not sure if that makes a difference on the suction side or not but I can believe it does. What bothers me more is that Woodland has no issues. It is possible the filter assembly should be replaced but the main problem in my opinion is that a "low" (relatively speaking) pressure filter design is being used in a suction situation. I find it hard to believe the the "L" shaped gasket would not easily seal in the normal application of this filter.

Can you elaborate on which gasket you are using? The "L" shaped gasket is not one that I have every tried to use.

I don't mechanically tighten any other filter either. When I first had air leakage issues, I went over the gasket, the filter mount, and the filter with a close inspection, by eye and with a magnifying mirror, looking for scratches, dirt, hair, or imperfections and I couldn't find any.

As all of these filters are suction filters, I wonder if the 425 might have a lower pressure drop across the filter, I.e. a larger filter area per gpm of the charge pump.

FWIW: I use Napa 1759 filters that are 10 micron filters.

All the best,

Peter

 

[marrt]

Terry told me to definitely use a wrench on both my machines (425 and 1845) and tighten it as tight as I could get it, when I inquired why PT hydraulic pumps fail so early. I think this is a very common problem that most PT owners don't know about. When I first got a PT, more than 20 years ago (thanks MossRoad), I once looked in the tank with the motor and mower running and could see a lot of foam. I felt this wasn't right but didn't think much more about it. My mistake.

After changing the filter, always peak in the tank with the machine running. Better yet, do a very cold start and peak in the tank. No air bubbles equals good, presence of air bubble equals bad.

 

[SpringHollow]

As shown by PT, when changing the filter, you hook a hose up to a particular port on the pump and stick the end into a jar of oil (or some do it in the tank) and check for bubbles while turning over the motor with the connector disconnected on the motor (diesel models).

The filter gaskets come in 2 flavors, one is flat and one is L shaped in cross section. I purchased some of the L gaskets by themselves to try them but I have not really noticed any difference between them.

 

[woodlandfarms]

So what are the symptoms of air in the system? Given how cursed I am I would have huge leaks and I have none that I know of.

 

[ponytug]

So what are the symptoms of air in the system? Given how cursed I am I would have huge leaks and I have none that I know of.

I did the hand tighten routine for awhile before Terry educated me, so unfortunately I can speak from experience.

Here is how you know; Sometimes, you can hear a high pitched whine. You can also get a film of oil on the outside of the filter, which gets to be noticeable with dust. Mostly, it is easiest and most noticeable due to foam or bubbles in the hydraulic tank. I check when the filter is first changed, and again once the oil is hot.

The reason to avoid the air is all the cavitation and erosion that the air causes in pumps and motors.

All the best,

Peter

 

[joshlee]

Here is how you know; Sometimes, you can hear a high pitched whine. You can also get a film of oil on the outside of the filter, which gets to be noticeable with dust. Mostly, it is easiest and most noticeable due to foam or bubbles in the hydraulic tank. I check when the filter is first changed, and again once the oil is hot.

The reason to avoid the air is all the cavitation and erosion that the air causes in pumps and motors.

All the best,

Peter

The pumps on mine have a high pitched sound if you get down close enough to them and listen. I thought it might have been an air leak, but after checking it I found out it’s not. The pumps on mine just have that sound.