Considering a smaller tractor to avoid Tier 4 emissions difficulties

   / Considering a smaller tractor to avoid Tier 4 emissions difficulties #51  
My 73 Nova was easy to work on... points and plugs, replacing water pumps, alternators, distributors was easy and seemed to be done fairly regularly. I remember in the mid-80's when my wife and I moved to "the country" and we bought a Toyota for better mileage (we had a 100+ mile round trip to work in "the city" everyday). My Dad popped the hood on the Toyota and said, "Oh my God, you'll never be able to work on this thing. You can't even get to anything with all these hoses and everything. And that poor little engine will not last a year with the miles you guys are putting on it.

We drove that little car with little more than routine maintenance of fluids and wear items. We sold it with over 300k miles on it and the person who bought it drove it from Ohio to Florida and back twice with no problems. We have had similar experience with all of our cars since.

Yes, those old GM's sure were easy to work on.
Yes, I had a 1973 Nova. Easy to work on and I did that frequently.
 
   / Considering a smaller tractor to avoid Tier 4 emissions difficulties #52  
I think you are right about that. But "more reliable" is still a long ways fro being "completely reliable".

Both the modern and the those 30 year old and older vehicles will need repair.
The differnce is that the older ones were built to be owner-repaired while the modern ones are not.

Designing modern vehicles to be unrepairable by owners is a deliberate policy of modern self-centered manufacturing. It increases profit to the manufacturer and his dealers with absolutely no advantage to the owner.

It could have been done differently. I'm surprised that no one has.
rScotty
You are correct that everything needs repairs eventually and modern cars are very difficult for the owner to do that. I only change oil and filter; the rest goes to the mechanic. But I seldom need to have my modern vehicles repaired either. I remember constantly doing points, condensers, plugs, wires, brakes, carburetor kits, etc on my 1970s vehicles. I’ll take the modern vehicles any day and leave the wrenching to the mechanics.
 
   / Considering a smaller tractor to avoid Tier 4 emissions difficulties #53  
My 73 Nova was easy to work on... points and plugs, replacing water pumps, alternators, distributors was easy and seemed to be done fairly regularly. I remember in the mid-80's when my wife and I moved to "the country" and we bought a Toyota for better mileage (we had a 100+ mile round trip to work in "the city" everyday). My Dad popped the hood on the Toyota and said, "Oh my God, you'll never be able to work on this thing. You can't even get to anything with all these hoses and everything. And that poor little engine will not last a year with the miles you guys are putting on it.

We drove that little car with little more than routine maintenance of fluids and wear items. We sold it with over 300k miles on it and the person who bought it drove it from Ohio to Florida and back twice with no problems. We have had similar experience with all of our cars since.

Yes, those old GM's sure were easy to work on.
I put 240K miles on my old 72 Nova. Gas got too expensive in the 80's so I had to sell it. It was indeed a dream to work on with no special tools or computers required.

As easy as it was to work on, it can't compare with my mothers old 61 Chevy Biscayne 6 cyl. station wagon. I could stand in the engine compartment with my feet on the ground to change the plugs.
 
   / Considering a smaller tractor to avoid Tier 4 emissions difficulties #54  
No problem here with new vehicles and issue. All you need is a good (expensive) scan tool. The Autel I have even tells you what the failed part is. Not that much fails. Automotive emissions are pretty well sorted out today. Not so with tractors and big trucks.
 
   / Considering a smaller tractor to avoid Tier 4 emissions difficulties #55  
I put 240K miles on my old 72 Nova. Gas got too expensive in the 80's so I had to sell it. It was indeed a dream to work on with no special tools or computers required.

As easy as it was to work on, it can't compare with my mothers old 61 Chevy Biscayne 6 cyl. station wagon. I could stand in the engine compartment with my feet on the ground to change the plugs.
And you had to change them frequently, not at 100k miles like modern cars.
 
   / Considering a smaller tractor to avoid Tier 4 emissions difficulties #56  
Easiest car in the world to work on was our 1983 240D Benz. If it was turbo, we'd probably still have it. Just didn't have enough hp to make it up Afton mountain without gearing down if someone slowed us up. As it was, kept it for 25 years into its 26th year (bought when 1 year old and not a mark on it). Wife loved that car. One of the last ones that you could sit in the driver's seat and see all 4 corners of the car. Don't think you can do that on any car now. One reason why people get SUVs; I guess.

I agree with getting tractor below Tier 4. Unless you're doing Ag type work in big fields, I really do not see the need for anyone to need more than 18-26 hp. Think most just buy big and never rev their engines much, thinking it's too hard on them to rev them (just because they're noisy),
 
   / Considering a smaller tractor to avoid Tier 4 emissions difficulties #57  
I agree with getting tractor below Tier 4. Unless you're doing Ag type work in big fields, I really do not see the need for anyone to need more than 18-26 hp. Think most just buy big and never rev their engines much, thinking it's too hard on them to rev them (just because they're noisy),
Fine for a 'hobby type machine as in CUT or Sub CUT but for me, anything below 60 pto horses is a non starter. I need at least 50 minimum to run my hay tools and more is always good. The more I have, the less the engines have to work, consequently, they last longer.

I feel totally inadequate on any tractor where the implements I use are larger than the tractor itself.
 
   / Considering a smaller tractor to avoid Tier 4 emissions difficulties #58  
You are correct that everything needs repairs eventually and modern cars are very difficult for the owner to do that. I only change oil and filter; the rest goes to the mechanic. But I seldom need to have my modern vehicles repaired either. I remember constantly doing points, condensers, plugs, wires, brakes, carburetor kits, etc on my 1970s vehicles. I’ll take the modern vehicles any day and leave the wrenching to the mechanics.

And the difference between what we are saying is that I don't agree that it should be or needs to be an either/or situation. I want both, both the better reliability and the option to repair it myself if I prefer.

Like you, I tend to leave the wrenching to the mechanics these days.

But that's just me. Going beyond what I want, I think that learning how to build and repair things is important. I think they lead to education and self-sufficiency - which ultimately benefits everyone.

The manufacturers I want to support are those who make an effort beyond just making profit.

rScotty
 
   / Considering a smaller tractor to avoid Tier 4 emissions difficulties #59  
A 25 HP tractor with gear drive might work for some uses. But I found it is not nearly enough power for a hydro tractor. No emissions doesn't matter if I can't work in the gear range I want.
 
   / Considering a smaller tractor to avoid Tier 4 emissions difficulties #60  
While I worked on a lot of vehicles back in the old days there's a lot of advantages to new ones. Cars and trucks and some tractors have OBD2 ports and will tell you what's wrong! That's so much better than the '60s and '70s. Computers are far more reliable than mechanical parts that wear out. I've not had to replace or adjust or clean points for a long time.

I also enjoy breathing cleaner air. My old pre emissions tractor would stink up the barn long before I was done changing implements. I can barely smell the new one and it's got 3x the power.

If you're going to be moving logs, especially with a grapple, you will want a tractor big enough to have a good loader lift capacity and heavy enough to carry that weight safely. My Branson is heavy for its power and has Rimguard in the rear tires. With a 550lb box blade on the back the rear tires get light when carrying a heavy log in the grapple. I could use a heavier ballast. A tractor like a Kubota L3901 weighs significantly less than the Branson and would not be able to move the same weight of logs with the grapple.

If you're going to be moving saw logs you will probably be dragging them as they will be too wide (and if they are big, too heavy) to carry sideways in the grapple. There are various types of log dollies that hold up one end or the whole log to keep it out of the dirt.
 

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