Transportation Chain and Binders

[3 Horse Ranch]

One will never regret using more chains, binders or straps than necessary.

 

[DieselBound]

One will never regret using more chains, binders or straps than necessary.

Except when one has to then disconnect/unhook and stow them! (There's also the issue of securing excess when in transport.)

I do what's necessary for the job (no skimping). More stuff you have to fasten the more chances of missing something: yes, always check, and check shortly after setting out; but, my point is is that it's better to focus on doing the job right than to toss more stuff at something in the hopes of making it right.

 

[Huntshillhaus Farm]

These look interesting! The speed of a lever action binder, but without the kickback when load releasing them.

Recoil-less Cam Action Lever Binder​

 

[Huntshillhaus Farm]

What is the difference between 2 10 foot chains on the rear or one 20 foot chain secured through the drawbar and fastened in two corners of the trailer? If you do the same in the front, you have tie-downs on 4 corners of the trailer.

DOT regs say one chain "can" be used, but only if it functions as two separate chains. In other words, you could use each end of the chain to an attachment point on the equipment, then a separate binder on each side, and so long as there is slack chain in between, they function as separate chains. So running a chain from one side through a clevis on the draw bar to the other side and using one binder is fine - so long as your equipment is 10K or less. But for something heavier, four separate binders (one for each corner) must be used, and there must be slack in the chain between two different corners of using a single chain for two attachment points. Basically the "four corner attachments" rule means one chain failure still leaves three connected, not merely for four attachments to the trailer. I hope that makes sense.

 

[3 Horse Ranch]

These look interesting! The speed of a lever action binder, but without the kickback when load releasing them.

Recoil-less Cam Action Lever Binder​

I used to use a truckers winch/cheater bar and not have to worry worry about the kickback. The cam action binder is nearly triple the cost of a standard binder. I like the speed of standard binders over the ratchet type, but I like the ability to keep an even tension on chain with the ratchet type.

 

[Citydude]

Dirt Perfect, a YouTube celebrity, uses speed binders and swears by them.

https://www.speedbinders.com/?gclid=CjwKCAiAlrSPBhBaEiwAuLSDUHRMwCVBMXNe2enxjdKkXv4guB9ot31RYbWMuOVe2Rtdo3mlMS8w6RoCt_0QAvD_BwE

 

[3 Horse Ranch]

Dirt Perfect, a YouTube celebrity, uses speed binders and swears by them.

https://www.speedbinders.com/?gclid=CjwKCAiAlrSPBhBaEiwAuLSDUHRMwCVBMXNe2enxjdKkXv4guB9ot31RYbWMuOVe2Rtdo3mlMS8w6RoCt_0QAvD_BwE

At $120 a pop, I think I'll stick to straps for my tractor.

 

[Huntshillhaus Farm]

I used to use a truckers winch/cheater bar and not have to worry worry about the kickback. The cam action binder is nearly triple the cost of a standard binder. I like the speed of standard binders over the ratchet type, but I like the ability to keep an even tension on chain with the ratchet type.

I'm honestly not going to use them a lot, maybe five or six times a year, at that. If the Chinese ones are sturdy enough, they sell them at US Truck Supplies for $30 each. The ratcheting ones are the same price, and the regular lever action ones are $23.

 

[Huntshillhaus Farm]

Dirt Perfect, a YouTube celebrity, uses speed binders and swears by them.

https://www.speedbinders.com/?gclid=CjwKCAiAlrSPBhBaEiwAuLSDUHRMwCVBMXNe2enxjdKkXv4guB9ot31RYbWMuOVe2Rtdo3mlMS8w6RoCt_0QAvD_BwE

Those are for guys doing this every day. A bit pricey for me, though.

 

[jyoutz]

DOT regs say one chain "can" be used, but only if it functions as two separate chains. In other words, you could use each end of the chain to an attachment point on the equipment, then a separate binder on each side, and so long as there is slack chain in between, they function as separate chains. So running a chain from one side through a clevis on the draw bar to the other side and using one binder is fine - so long as your equipment is 10K or less. But for something heavier, four separate binders (one for each corner) must be used, and there must be slack in the chain between two different corners of using a single chain for two attachment points. Basically the "four corner attachments" rule means one chain failure still leaves three connected, not merely for four attachments to the trailer. I hope that makes sense.

It does make sense. Thanks.

 

[4570Man]

I used to use a truckers winch/cheater bar and not have to worry worry about the kickback. The cam action binder is nearly triple the cost of a standard binder. I like the speed of standard binders over the ratchet type, but I like the ability to keep an even tension on chain with the ratchet type.

A cam binder works well for a wheeled machine with a little flex. For a tracked machine or other solid load sometimes you’re stuck with a chain that’s a little loose because you can’t go a link more. You can hook the chain in a loop vs a solid hook point that will allow half link adjustments that helps that problem. I like cam binders for their ease of use but there’s no denying ratchets are superior. Ratchets are especially annoying when they’ve been laying in the rain and don’t ratchet properly.

 

[3 Horse Ranch]

Ratchets are especially annoying when they’ve been laying in the rain and don’t ratchet properly.

Even new ones are a pain at times, but pulling them apart and greasing the threads makes them a lot better, and they will even take laying in the rain,,, for a while, just have to remember gloves when working with them. I keep mine in a tool box on the trailer out of the weather, but I only use them a few times a year.
I hauled a one ton dually over here from Puget Sound and I had to cross chain it which worked out well for me. I had no one to guide me when I loaded it, so I used the cross ratchet binders to pull the truck sideways to center it.

 

[4570Man]

Even new ones are a pain at times, but pulling them apart and greasing the threads makes them a lot better, and they will even take laying in the rain,,, for a while, just have to remember gloves when working with them. I keep mine in a tool box on the trailer out of the weather, but I only use them a few times a year.
I hauled a one ton dually over here from Puget Sound and I had to cross chain it which worked out well for me. I had no one to guide me when I loaded it, so I used the cross ratchet binders to pull the truck sideways to center it.
View attachment 730638

I don’t like grease on them. It’s nasty. I hit them with spray lube but that doesn’t last very long. One of my trailers has a toolbox. That pretty much eliminates the problem. My other trailer doesn’t have a box.

 

[CJONE]

I use 5/16" G70 for basically everything. Hauled a new 321F yesterday and felt more than safe with them. You are good to 18k with the G70 5/16 as long as the DOT can read the spec on the link. Go to us cargo control and look up Peerless quick binder plus 5/16-3/8 as they are not a club like the 1/2" ones are. I am not a fan of the ratchet binders but these work good and don't seem to be affected by the elements as bad as others for china made items. I am in northern Michigan so they see some nasty stuff. I do have USA made snap binders and they are way better than some of the china ones I have. CJ

 

[ljjhouser]

I use peerless yellow rachet binders. They work very well for the binding I do. Most loads, after the first 20 miles loosen a little. They make it easy to ratchet them tighter without much effort. I also keep them out of the weather in the trailer toolbox. An occassional shot of WD 40 doesn't hurt also.
I notice some people leave the hook off of one end of the chains to use with binders. I haven't done that but might try it. That seems to allow the use of shorter chains. It does seem like the peerless binder have gone up in price (so has everything). I use a separate chain and binder on all 4 points, and any impllement.
I cannot justify, for myself the concept of thinking I'm not going to use it much, so this good enough. Whether you haul 1 time a year, or 100 times, It takes only one accident to regret.

I like the discussion of better ways to bind weight. You will have a better trip if you have confidence in your equipment. I did notice at one time a Youtube person from my state advocate crossing chains from the far side of each axle. He has a very popular site and is uaually very good. I was hoping he might take that advice off. There are a lot of comments about, and I agree with the comments. - In a rollover, crossing the chains leaves a lot of room for a tractor to life off of the trailer.

 

[nikerret]

Very few US companies make the hooks. Laclede is a US chain manufacturer. I contacted them to get some more hooks (bought longer chain and cut it) and the reply was that all of their hooks are imported. The chain links are made in US.

Columbus McKinnon is one of the very few US manufacturers of chain hooks. They are expensive. Here:

5/16 CM Clevis Grab Hooks Grade 70 - USA

Columbus McKinnon Grade 70 5/16" Clevis Grab Hook. Made in USA. Clevis Hooks are not designed for overhead lifting, but instead are most often used for load securement with tie-down chains. These feature a U-shaped attachment point with a pin to secure chain or other rigging attachments

www.murphyindustrialproducts.com

$17 compared to around $5, for an imported with the same G70 rating.

Here is how I have my chains and binders set up:

 

[crashz]

Mine aren't as neat and tidy, but in a bucket within the toolbox of my trailer. Keeping the chains and binders under cover keeps them so much cleaner and less rusty.

I use the 3/8" chain from Tractor supply on the 20' pre-cut lengths. They are stamped (conforms to DOT regs) and way over kill for my little tractor. Hobo Fright for the ratchet binders (3/8" - 1/2"). I've done the same as others here and cut the 20' chains into two 10' lengths. Two chains up front to the grill guard, one in the back crossing through a clevis on the drawbar, a two inch strap on the rotary cutter and a strap over the bucket.

Typically I transport a dozen or more times per year to customers properties, but they are very short hauls. I have had good luck with my current set-up, but have noticed that if my angles are not right on the front chains, the tractor will move a little.

 

[Huntshillhaus Farm]

I ended up ordering two 20' "Made in USA" 5/16 G70 chains from US Truck Supply, which I plan to split into four corner chains, several extra hooks, two ratcheting binders, and two of the new style cam binders which have the soft release. The binders are imports, but for the amount they'll actually be used, I think it's worth going cheaper on them - at least until I figure out if they work well or not. Free shipping on everything, and considerably less than Tractor Supply or Orschelns.

 

[Robo 52]

I personally would never use anything less than 3/8" chain, 1/2" if you have it. Ratchet binders are far superior - even with a length of pipe on the handle of a lever-type you can't get a load as tight as you can with a ratchet, and then LOOK OUT when you want to break it loose 'cuz you're going to bust your knuckles or something worse.
I use the 3/8-1/2" binders from TSC - a little pricey but what's your tractor worth to you? Not to mention potential for wrecks/property damage/deaths if highway driving. Yes this is all overkill, but... The alternative is far worse.
I always cross-chain if possible - reduces ability for load to 'walk' sideways. Make sure the bound chain section is as short as possible so things don't 'swing' on an arc. I use the 1/2" chain at the front for a little extra security. Always hook to a non-sprung component, as anything with some suspension give is going to hop and walk after a few miles of bumps. Axles, shackles, large suspension pieces. With a tractor you're okay if you avoid hooking to anything with less than a 3/8" mounting pin (check your draw-bar mount hardware).
Remember cast components are more likely to break before forged ones - your hooks are more likely to break than your chain. Make sure your hooks and pins are sturdy.
I never grease my chain tensioners or chain - just spray them with WD-40 after every use. Keep the tensioners in the bed toolbox, and I keep the chains each individually in a 1-gallon RV antifreeze jug with the hole enlarged to take the bunched chain. Leave the handle tho', makes them easier to lug around and pull from under the back seat. As long as you drive the moisture out (hauling in the rain, logging in the snow) and avoid rust you really shouldn't need grease. I've had some chain 50+ years, including one 4' that i found on the highway, and they're all in good shape. I've found 6', 8' and 10' are most useful.
I avoid ratchet straps, even 3,500-5,000lb'ers for anything bigger than a side-by-side. Almost lost my '64 F-100 using straps. Most frame and body components are like a knife after 100 miles or so of rutching around.
My setup has worked good so far - granted my biggest tractor is only about 8,000lbs with a 6' Howse attached, but I've used the same rig to haul 9,500lbs of reclaimed oak and chestnut barn beams 180+ miles without incident.

 

[4570Man]

I personally would never use anything less than 3/8" chain, 1/2" if you have it. Ratchet binders are far superior - even with a length of pipe on the handle of a lever-type you can't get a load as tight as you can with a ratchet, and then LOOK OUT when you want to break it loose 'cuz you're going to bust your knuckles or something worse.
I use the 3/8-1/2" binders from TSC - a little pricey but what's your tractor worth to you? Not to mention potential for wrecks/property damage/deaths if highway driving. Yes this is all overkill, but... The alternative is far worse.
I always cross-chain if possible - reduces ability for load to 'walk' sideways. Make sure the bound chain section is as short as possible so things don't 'swing' on an arc. I use the 1/2" chain at the front for a little extra security. Always hook to a non-sprung component, as anything with some suspension give is going to hop and walk after a few miles of bumps. Axles, shackles, large suspension pieces. With a tractor you're okay if you avoid hooking to anything with less than a 3/8" mounting pin (check your draw-bar mount hardware).
Remember cast components are more likely to break before forged ones - your hooks are more likely to break than your chain. Make sure your hooks and pins are sturdy.
I never grease my chain tensioners or chain - just spray them with WD-40 after every use. Keep the tensioners in the bed toolbox, and I keep the chains each individually in a 1-gallon RV antifreeze jug with the hole enlarged to take the bunched chain. Leave the handle tho', makes them easier to lug around and pull from under the back seat. As long as you drive the moisture out (hauling in the rain, logging in the snow) and avoid rust you really shouldn't need grease. I've had some chain 50+ years, including one 4' that i found on the highway, and they're all in good shape. I've found 6', 8' and 10' are most useful.
I avoid ratchet straps, even 3,500-5,000lb'ers for anything bigger than a side-by-side. Almost lost my '64 F-100 using straps. Most frame and body components are like a knife after 100 miles or so of rutching around.
My setup has worked good so far - granted my biggest tractor is only about 8,000lbs with a 6' Howse attached, but I've used the same rig to haul 9,500lbs of reclaimed oak and chestnut barn beams 180+ miles without incident.

There’s no need to be that excessive. A 5/16 grade 70 chain working load is 4700 pounds. Using 6 of those is almost 30,000 pounds working load of chain. A 3/8 grade 70 chain is going to rip off the trailer anchor point or bust off the tractor before the chain breaks. Using 1/2 chain on a compact tractor is a complete waste of money and effort to drag it out.