Best way to shorten cylinder rod?

[CJONE]

Using the cut and weld, I would make sure to fill the cylinder is full of oil, and might even consider dropping it in a bucket of water to keep the heat away from the seals! Weld in short bursts, to keep temps down!
David from jax

?? with the rod extended out you will never get close to the gland seal. Normally unless the rod is extremely large heat only goes 10" or so down the rod before you can't touch it. CJ

 

[sandman2234]

?? with the rod extended out you will never get close to the gland seal. Normally unless the rod is extremely large heat only goes 10" or so down the rod before you can't touch it. CJ

Ok, weld the end on the rod, while keeping your other hand (without gloves) on the rod near the front of the cylinder. If you can keep your bare hand on it, then it is far enough away from the heat of the weld.
It isn't hard to fill cylinder with oil and even to keep it immersed in a bucket of water (or oil!) which is why I mentioned that. As long as the weld temps don't reach the seals, life is good!
David from jax

 

[etpm]

I will be wrapping a wet rag around the cylinder rod right up close to where I'm welding. I don't want the chrome plating to get too hot and maybe de-laminate. I learned the wet rag trick way back in the 80s in welding class. Since then I have used it several times. It has always worked.
Eric

 

[5030]

If it is just chromed you can cut right through it. If it is induction hardened with chrome then just "red line" it with a torch "heat until it just discolors' and then cut with the saw. That is the fastest cleanest way to cut hardened rod. CJ

Whatever you say Comrade..

 

[LD1]

Whether its chrome or induction hardened....they both chop fine with an abrasive chop saw. I have done quite a few cylinders.

 

[4570Man]

If it is just chromed you can cut right through it. If it is induction hardened with chrome then just "red line" it with a torch "heat until it just discolors' and then cut with the saw. That is the fastest cleanest way to cut hardened rod. CJ

A toothed saw blade and heat don’t get along good at all. I’m guessing these are low quality cylinders that a bandsaw would zip right through but in the event that fails just cut the whole thing with an abrasive saw.

 

[LD1]

A toothed saw blade and heat don’t get along good at all. I’m guessing these are low quality cylinders that a bandsaw would zip right through but in the event that fails just cut the whole thing with an abrasive saw.

I assume he meant to heat it then let it cool. Basically annealing it so it loses it's temper. But not actually cutting it while it's hot

 

[lpakiz]

I've cut plenty of hydraulic rod on my HF bandsaw, with a cheap blade to boot. Absolutely no problem. The chrome plating is like a half thousandths thick.
BTW, the rod is called CPO, which means Chrome Plated Outside

 

[etpm]

Before you cut the rods be sure you will still have enough extension to fully dump the bucket. Adding travel on one end reduces it on the other unless the cylinders can extend past their current stops.

Greetings Robert,
Your suggestion to check if the bucket will fully dump was a good one. Right now the bucket goes past vertical. If I remove 2 inches it will go to just vertical. I was considering the removal of about 3.5 inches. Now I'm not sure how much to take off. If I go the full 3.5 inches then the bucket will be about 10 degrees from vertical. Will that be a big deal? I don't know. What's your opinion?
I'm not sure yet how much more tilt back I will get if only 2 inches are removed. I need help to determine that so my son is coming over in a couple days to help me. I could change the cylinder mounting point on the bucket which would result in more tilt back and more dump both. But that would lessen the torque to the bucket. I suppose that most of time it wouldn't matter but sometimes it is nice to use the bucket curl to get me unstuck. Changing the mounting point will also require drilling 4 big holes, making 4 new bushings, and welding them in. Then repainting the area where the paint was removed for welding. On Wednesday I make the decision.
Thanks,
Eric

 

[etpm]

If it is just chromed you can cut right through it. If it is induction hardened with chrome then just "red line" it with a torch "heat until it just discolors' and then cut with the saw. That is the fastest cleanest way to cut hardened rod. CJ

As I stated earlier in this thread I am going to use a carbide endmill to remove the excess material. It won't care if rod is hardened or not. The chrome plating may damage the endmill a little. That's OK because I will be using a worn one anyway. It will be plenty good enough for this job. For fussy stuff and for a customer I use endmills that are new or in good shape. For my jobs where it doesn't matter I use worn cutters. That way if I ruin one my hobby doesn't cost me too much. And my tractoring, even though really useful on my acreage, is ultimately a hobby. In the long run I could probably hire out all the stuff I do with my tractor and get off cheaper. But where's the fun in that? Besides, I like it when my wife wants to plant more trees or bushes and I don't have to fight rocks digging holes and making my bone on bone wrist joints hurt. I just use the post hole digger and drill the holes. Man that's fun. I can drill a 9 inch hole 3 feet deep in about a minute. Maybe a minute and a half. And I don't have to wait. I start up the tractor and go.
Eric