Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[Helogabals]

Great video Mr. Jstpssng...it just kept going and going.

Interesting how they seemed to all slide off to the left after dominoing the next in line.

My luck - the feller gets paid the big bucks...and I'd be the one responsible to limb them all out once he got them down!

"BackRoad, it's all yours now - go clean it up..."

Just what was my first thought.
Nice video.
But from work organizing point - complete mess.

 

[Hilbilly]

I wouldn't uses a electric sharpener on the rakers unless you have a controlled way of doing it ... if you take these down too much your chainsaw will become pretty dangerous ...

It's not a hand held sharpener, it's a bench mount and it has an adjustable depth control with a stop on it. So I can accurately set the raker height and get them all the same. Should be a big improvement over the way I have been doing it.

 

[Rockbadchild]

It's not a hand held sharpener, it's a bench mount and it has an adjustable depth control with a stop on it. So I can accurately set the raker height and get them all the same. Should be a big improvement over the way I have been doing it.

yes that's what I was thinking ho ok you can set the height then it should be fine as long as you know how much to take out ... if it works it works ... last time I brought my rakers down (I was over due) on my chainsaw I gave it 6 stroke each rakers and holy moly watch out chum

 

[Green Acres Homestead]

Some areas of my woods are dense, so I end up with this situation at times, just no clear spot to drop the tree into. I am cutting out the weaker, broken, or otherwise damaged trees, so they get hung up in the larger, healthy trees. My hope is to only have to do this now, thin the lot to where I can drop the larger trees later without damaging to many young ones.

It also seems I've lost all the ash already, a lot of the cedars blew down a few years ago, now the poplars are going. I lost 2 big cedars right behind the house this winter. I cleared out around them a little, hoping they would thrive. But I think I got rid of their wind protection and they slowly fell over, a little each day for about 3-4 days. Man I wish I had a sawmill!!

The big forestry companies attempted select cut in our area but if the harvest area is to big and not protected from the wind they sure do have alot of blow downs. Definitely need wind breaks.

One of the safest ways to bring down a hung tree is with a winch. Logging winches can be purchased for vaious size tractors and can pull alot depending on the size of the winch. For your tractor size...looks like about 40 hp, a winch to match 40 hp will pull about 6500. You wrap a chain around the bottom of the hung up tree and park the tractor out of reach of the falling tree. Pull the rope to engage the cloth and usually it will take down the tree unless it gets caught up on a stump. Winch are great because if you are working our property the cable or rope on the winch is usually about 200 feet so you don't have to make as many roads to the trees. You reach in with the cable/rope and pull the tree out to the tractor. You will get alot of use out of a winch. It also will save you trying to cut out dead fall dangerously. Winches can sometimes be purchases $1500 used. About $4000 new. At least hear in Canada.

 

[Jstpssng]

My luck - the feller gets paid the big bucks...and I'd be the one responsible to limb them all out once he got them down!

But from work organizing point - complete mess

Imagine if the wind had come up from the wrong direction, just as he was making his last cut. Results might have been different.

 

[fruitcakesa]

I wouldn't uses a electric sharpener on the rakers unless you have a controlled way of doing it ... if you take these down too much your chainsaw will become pretty dangerous ...

I set the stop for the raker wheel after hand filing one raker to set the depth.

 

[Rockbadchild]

I set the stop for the raker wheel after hand filing one raker to set the depth.

smart

 

[Skeans1]

Imagine if the wind had come up from the wrong direction, just as he was making his last cut. Results might have been different.

Being out on the coast there’s always wind, that’s Sitka good luck sending a single one at a time in that mess.

 

[Skeans1]

I'm going to have to remember all the good suggestions here, when I get back to firewood gathering.

I also picked up one of the better Princess Auto electric chain sharpeners. After getting it set up and giving it try, I really like it.

For those of you that use the electric sharpener on the rakers, do you change the wheel and use a flat edged one that has not been shaped or just use the same wheel that was used for the teeth?

When I used a standard Oregon 511ax for doing depth gauges I left the head set at 60 degrees, shaped the wheel for a flat working area that’s parallel to the vise. How this grinder is set up now the head is around 80 degrees with a square edge wheel which gives a slight angle on the depth gauge which makes it cut a little smoother right out of the gate. Normally after the first cut you can’t tell the difference between the two ways.

As far as setting up a chain for how much to take before I even use a chain the minimum I’ll do is drop the rakers to spec, most of the time I’ll also sharpen the cutters to what I’m doing. After that normally every grind if not every other grind I adjust my rakers looking at the raker itself you’ll see a heat mark normally from cutting it’s where it’s been scrubbing and use that to set the depth.

 

[Skeans1]

I wouldn't uses a electric sharpener on the rakers unless you have a controlled way of doing it ... if you take these down too much your chainsaw will become pretty dangerous ...

It’s just as dangerous to have the depth gauges too high you’ll use more energy which in turn makes it more likely you’ll make a mistake.