Bucket forks

[Raypell]

completely new to this thread and tractors live in northern Mi. Purchased home with JD 2032r and am accumulating attachments. I would like to add a front fork bucket attachment to help with loading and unloading, moving pallets and equipment. Are any of these bolt on forks any good? I know the lifting capacity is only 1300lbs so having a 4000 lb capacity seems overkill. Has anyone purchased any of these. Also is tying back the forks with a chain the safest and best way to go to prevent bending my bucket. Thank you in advance any sound advice is appreciated

 

[jeff9366]

Here are 107 threads from the T-B-N ARCHIVE with the two words Bucket Forks in the title: Search results for query: bucket forks

 

[ruffdog]

Don't get the HD 4000 lb ones as they are heavier than you can use. Chaining them won't prevent the bucket from bending but placing the forks as wide as you can will help.

 

[LD1]

If you have a quick attach bucket....either the john Deere variety or a ssqa type....getting actual forks as opposed to clamp on forks is far superior. Keeps the load in closer and no worries about forks moving or damaging the bucket. Also quite a bit more usable lift capacity.

I'd be surprised if you could lift 500 pounds on a pallet with the clamp on type.

 

[Jims1025R]

If you have a quick attach bucket....either the john Deere variety or a ssqa type....getting actual forks as opposed to clamp on forks is far superior. Keeps the load in closer and no worries about forks moving or damaging the bucket. Also quite a bit more usable lift capacity.

I'd be surprised if you could lift 500 pounds on a pallet with the clamp on type.

This.

I have a 1025R with the correct quick attach forks, and am very happy with them. And.... If you compromise with clamp on bucket forks, you have to deduct the weight of the bucket [you're still lifting] from the load the forks can lift.

 

[cedarparker]

I bought a set of "Titan Attachments" pallet forks for a couple hundred bucks from Amazon ("free shipping!"). Another of those things that once I used 'em I can't figure out how I lived without 'em. No, they're not for everyone, yes the "quick attach" kind would be way more convenient, but for occasional use these things have served me well. Handle all kinds of awkward loads (pipe, fence posts, metal panel siding/roofing, ...), self-palletized loads, unloading LTL truck deliveries, tree trunk work, ... Yes, the strength of the forks greatly exceeds the lifting capacity on my Jinma's Koyker 140 loader, but so what. Yes, the clamp-ons will move side to side on ya if you're not careful -- one trick I learned is to tighten the heck out of 'em with a hand sledge -- not a rubber mallet, a hard heavy hammer. What's that big ell-bar on that clamp screw for if not to beat on?

One problem I did encounter (on my loader, anyhow, YMMV) is that with the load cantilevered out there ahead of the bucket, it can drop FAST even if you're careful with the loader controls. This had been happening even with bucket loads ever since I replaced the joystick valve, but the pallet forks really show up the problem. Dangerous to property, life and limb. I solved this by putting a flow restrictor in the loader hydraulic line.

Hope this is useful to you Raypell.

Blessings,
Jeff

 

[Raypell]

Don't get the HD 4000 lb ones as they are heavier than you can use. Chaining them won't prevent the bucket from bending but placing the forks as wide as you can will help.

Thank you appreciate the response sound advice will help in making sound decisions

I bought a set of "Titan Attachments" pallet forks for a couple hundred bucks from Amazon ("free shipping!"). Another of those things that once I used 'em I can't figure out how I lived without 'em. No, they're not for everyone, yes the "quick attach" kind would be way more convenient, but for occasional use these things have served me well. Handle all kinds of awkward loads (pipe, fence posts, metal panel siding/roofing, ...), self-palletized loads, unloading LTL truck deliveries, tree trunk work, ... Yes, the strength of the forks greatly exceeds the lifting capacity on my Jinma's Koyker 140 loader, but so what. Yes, the clamp-ons will move side to side on ya if you're not careful -- one trick I learned is to tighten the heck out of 'em with a hand sledge -- not a rubber mallet, a hard heavy hammer. What's that big ell-bar on that clamp screw for if not to beat on?

One problem I did encounter (on my loader, anyhow, YMMV) is that with the load cantilevered out there ahead of the bucket, it can drop FAST even if you're careful with the loader controls. This had been happening even with bucket loads ever since I replaced the joystick valve, but the pallet forks really show up the problem. Dangerous to property, life and limb. I solved this by putting a flow restrictor in the loader hydraulic line.

Hope this is useful to you Raypell.

Blessings,
Jeff

being on a limited budget because I just purchased a new brush hog I am thinking that your assessment is very practical. Like you I will be using these for saving my back and basically moving material, pallets, unloading etc etc and down the line get something a little more substantial. The flow restrictor sounds good as well was it difficult to install and werrtheir modifications needed?

 

[Raypell]

If you have a quick attach bucket....either the john Deere variety or a ssqa type....getting actual forks as opposed to clamp on forks is far superior. Keeps the load in closer and no worries about forks moving or damaging the bucket. Also quite a bit more usable lift capacity.

I'd be surprised if you could lift 500 pounds on a pallet with the clamp on type.

Makes sense I keep looking online for auctions sales on quick attach forks but unfortunately used is as much as new with no warranty. Trying to work within a budget and increase my useful inventory of tools thank you

 

[cedarparker]

The flow restrictor sounds good as well was it difficult to install and werrtheir modifications needed?

Mine was easy to install. The flow restrictor itself doesn't come with fittings, so you need to buy them for your particular equipment. It's convenient to install it near the joystick as I did, but it doesn't need to be there -- you can put the anywhere in the line where there is clearance. You need to figure out what line you want to restrict -- lower, or dump, or both (both would require 2 restrictors). I just restricted the "lower" direction. It restricts flow in only one direction, kinda like a check valve, so you need to put it in the right way. In other words, you want to restrict "lower" but have full flow on "raise". And of course use standard hydraulic system best practices on the install (incoming lecture on using teflon tape on hydraulic NPT threads in 3... 2... 1... ).

All that said, I would not even put in a flow restrictor unless you need it. You'll find out with the first heavy load you lift. I didn't have the fast-drop issue with my original valve, it showed up only when I replaced it with a supposed "work-alike" valve because I broke the original valve. Don't ask me how I broke it, my screw-ups are nunya bidness .

 

[cedarparker]

There was supposed to be a picture attached to the previous post...