YANGDONG Y380 ENGINE REVS UP HIGH IDLE

[uncle buzz]

SAW A PUFF OF WHITE SMOKE ON START UP ON THE INJECTORS / INTAKE SIDE OF ENGINE .
AFTER START UP A FEW MINUTES IT REVS UP AND RUNS AT A VERY HIGH R.P.M. (DON'T KNOW WHAT RPM ,AS IT HAS NO TACHOMETER)
I CAN SLOW IT DOWN BY PULLING THE KILL CABLE OUT TO SLOW THE FUEL.
BUT WHAT IS THE WHITE SMOKE ? WHY DOES IT ACT LIKE IT'S GETTING TOO MUCH FUEL ? HOW DO I FIX IT ?
I JUST DID A MAINTENANCE ,OIL AND FILTER,FUEL AND FILTER CHANGE,AIR FILTER ,TOP OFF OTHER FLUIDS.
NOT RUNNING HOT.NOT BLOWING BLACK SMOKE ,HOWEVER SEEM TO BE A LITTLE DOWN ON POWER.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Welcome, Uncle Buzz.
Heavy white smoke that lingers in the air is unburned fuel. White smoke that dissipates quickly is moisture (usually coolant).
Can't you control the engine speed with the throttle?
Did you change the oil in the fuel injection pump?

 

[uncle buzz]

Welcome, Uncle Buzz.
Heavy white smoke that lingers in the air is unburned fuel. White smoke that dissipates quickly is moisture (usually coolant).
Can't you control the engine speed with the throttle?
Did you change the oil in the fuel injection pump?

Bob Rooks,
I have blowby on #1 injector,I think the copper seat is bad and when it heats up it just starts running away ..I started it up yesterday and felt around the #1 injector and it was blowing out hot gas,so that's the white smoke in the engine bay at 1st start up.
I am doing more investigation today.
I'll change oil at the injector pump after I deal with the injector problem.
What is your thoughts about that ?
Thank You for your input
more is needed .
Could The injector Leaking be a by product of something more ?
the throttle will not throttle down.but will throttle up .

 

[thepumpguysc]

Start the engine.
Break loose the steel line AT THE INJECTORS 1@a time and watch the smoke.. tighten the line and move to the next..
Once u find the problem cyl., remove the injector and move it to another hole.. or look at the tip of the injector., I think you’ll find it blown off.??
Move it to another hole and do the test again.. see if it follows the injector or stays w the cylinder.

 

[uncle buzz]

Start the engine.
Break loose the steel line AT THE INJECTORS 1@a time and watch the smoke.. tighten the line and move to the next..
Once u find the problem cyl., remove the injector and move it to another hole.. or look at the tip of the injector., I think you’ll find it blown off.??
Move it to another hole and do the test again.. see if it follows the injector or stays w the cylinder.

I removed all ijectors ,#1 copper washer was burnt by blow by and injector had carbon on tip ,#2 was just dirty tip,#3 carbon and cirty.
I ordered 3 injectors and they are on the way here via postal service.
Would the injector (#1) being leaking at the copper washer where it seats in the head cause a run away ?
(has anyone else ordered from Keno ?)
I'll be replacing them asap .
THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT
IT IS HIGHLY VALUED

 

[thepumpguysc]

The loose injectors would not cause a run away..
If your in the States, why didn’t you get them CHECKED and rebuilt.??

 

[Bob Rooks]

I removed all ijectors ,#1 copper washer was burnt by blow by and injector had carbon on tip ,#2 was just dirty tip,#3 carbon and cirty.
I ordered 3 injectors and they are on the way here via postal service.
Would the injector (#1) being leaking at the copper washer where it seats in the head cause a run away ?
(has anyone else ordered from Keno ?)
I'll be replacing them asap .
THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT
IT IS HIGHLY VALUED

When you replace all the injectors make sure the holes are absolutely clean, and that none of the copper seals remain (I have seen injectors work their way loose from having two copper seals installed).
Please note that there is no direct mechanical connection between the throttle and the fuel injection pump. The injection pump rack is controlled only by the governor (that's why I asked if you changed the injection pump oil, because they share a common sump). Your runaway symptom is likely caused by a sticking rack or a defective governor. It doesn't make sense that the runaway symptom begins after the engine is warmed up unless fuel, lube oil, or hydraulic oil is finding it's way into the intake manifold.

Where are you located? Please fill out your profile.

 

[Bob Rooks]

(has anyone else ordered from Keno ?)

Yes, they are ok for parts. A little ignorant for a dealer though.

 

[piper184]

I bought my tractor from them. Great service and parts, back in 2007. Then personnel changed and I never got the correct parts from them again. Some orders had to be placed multiple times. Never did find anyone that understood the hydraulic fittings or the light bulbs.
Sad to say, but I moved on to more reliable places.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I bought my tractor from them. Great service and parts, back in 2007. Then personnel changed and I never got the correct parts from them again. Some orders had to be placed multiple times. Never did find anyone that understood the hydraulic fittings or the light bulbs.
Sad to say, but I moved on to more reliable places.

Yes, they used to be great. I purchased dozer parts and implements from them. Nowadays they are the only company in the free world, to my knowledge, that champion the use of compressor oil for the fuel injection pump/governor. And if you ask them why they can't give you a sound answer. I haven't done business with them for years.

 

[uncle buzz]

Thanks for everyones input.
I trully apprieciate it.
I have not changed the oil in the injection pump/governor as my manual does NOT say anything about it or how /where to drain it or fill it.
If anyone could clue me into where and what type of oil to put into it,and to drain said existing oil .I would value that info.
AGAIN THANK EVERYONE

 

[Bob Rooks]

You use the same lube oil that you use in the engine (SAE 15w-40 with an API rating of CK-4). I'm looking for my pic of the oil drain plug, but the fill point is usually the mushroom shaped vent on top. There is a 8mm hex head tattle-tail plug on the side that is to be removed during filling to indicate when it's full. As an alternative, you can suck the oil out through the dipstick tube.

Yellow circle is the oil drain, right at the end of the governor. Not easy to get to that's why I suck my oil out with an extractor.

 

[uncle buzz]

Cool thanks for the much needed information .

 

[uncle buzz]

You use the same lube oil that you use in the engine (SAE 15w-40 with an API rating of CK-4). I'm looking for my pic of the oil drain plug, but the fill point is usually the mushroom shaped vent on top. There is a 8mm hex head tattle-tail plug on the side that is to be removed during filling to indicate when it's full. As an alternative, you can suck the oil out through the dipstick tube.

Yellow circle is the oil drain, right at the end of the governor. Not easy to get to that's why I suck my oil out with an extractor.

 

[uncle buzz]

Cool beans.
Thanks for all the information.
When I have the dump cylinder (that's flowing like a river)rebuilt ,again,as I have very silty sand here in the High Desert of California.
Looks like I'll have plenty of time to evacuate the oil and replace it.
I really do apprieciate the picture as I am a visual person ,or so I have been told...a lot....
THANKS AGAIN

 

[piper184]

Check page 40 of the first document on my web page found here:
Harnerfarm Jinma 284
Feel free to download any of these documents for your use.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I dug out my spare fuel injection pump assembly, and I was anxious to try out a new Open Office program because MS Visio doesn't run on WIN 11, so here is the result:

 

[Bob Rooks]

Before I go too far, which fuel injection pump do you have? Left or right?

 

[uncle buzz]

Left pump

 

[Bob Rooks]

Left pump

Ok, on these two models it's very possible that they are oiled from the engine's pressure system. Check to see if there is a hose leading from the injection pump to the engine oil filter base, or to the side of the engine block.