Xfaxman
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Make sure that you have enough rollback angle on the bucket when you weld the plates on.
How Much Metal do I Need to Leave on SSQA Mount?
- Thread starter Suburban Plowboy
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OP
Suburban Plowboy
Platinum Member
The original ears were parallel to the back of the bucket, so that's how I'm planning to install the new plates.
I don't really have much choice, now that I think about it.
I don't really have much choice, now that I think about it.
Xfaxman
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The plates can be welded on at any angle needed by using gussets to get the angle.
This is my bucket:
OP
Suburban Plowboy
Platinum Member
What I mean is that the old ear holes were in holes situated parallel to the back of the bucket, so if I put the plates directly on the back, I will have the same angle the bucket had when it was held on with pins.
I guess I should tack the new plates on and move the bucket around to check it before finishing the welds.
I guess I should tack the new plates on and move the bucket around to check it before finishing the welds.
Xfaxman
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Right, you may want a little more rollback than before.
Looks like there is plenty of dump angle.
OP
Suburban Plowboy
Platinum Member
It looks like the pin holes on the adaptor are not quite aligned with the back of the bucket, but the difference between them is only about 1/4".
I am inclined to let it go as it is. I don't think it will matter.
I am inclined to let it go as it is. I don't think it will matter.
2manyrocks
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Now is the time to make any final adjustment before completing the welds. I'm taking a break from one of my welding projects today, but will try to finish tomorrow when I'm fresh.
It's not like anyone is standing over either of us to finish.
It's not like anyone is standing over either of us to finish.
toolslinger
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Actually, we're all sitting here drumming our fingers waiting for the finished pictures... Back to work!
2manyrocks
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Okay. Sorry I slacked off.
OP
Suburban Plowboy
Platinum Member
Here is what I have so far. I have been grinding forever.
I started using plasma to cut the ends off the plate, but my 40-amp cutter combined with my skills made a mess, so I went to the 6" grinder and a cutoff wheel. Much better results, much faster, without setting my hair on fire.
The plates I ended up with are around 10" wide, so there is a gap of about 25" between them. I cut the angle iron support on the Kubota to fit the gap.
There was a ton of rust, scale, and general crud under the Kubota ears and support, but luckily, very little of it is near the places where I'll be welding.
A Norton Rapidstrip and the 4.5-inch grinder did a great job of removing paint and removing small cavities where stuff could hide.
My plan is to put the plates on the tractor, lower them onto the bucket, tack them to it, and see if I'm happy with their positions. If so, I'll put the bucket down, back the tractor out, and finish welding. Then I plan to repaint only the areas where I destroyed the old paint. I am too tired to paint the whole bucket, and I have a hydraulic leak to chase.
I started using plasma to cut the ends off the plate, but my 40-amp cutter combined with my skills made a mess, so I went to the 6" grinder and a cutoff wheel. Much better results, much faster, without setting my hair on fire.
The plates I ended up with are around 10" wide, so there is a gap of about 25" between them. I cut the angle iron support on the Kubota to fit the gap.
There was a ton of rust, scale, and general crud under the Kubota ears and support, but luckily, very little of it is near the places where I'll be welding.
A Norton Rapidstrip and the 4.5-inch grinder did a great job of removing paint and removing small cavities where stuff could hide.
My plan is to put the plates on the tractor, lower them onto the bucket, tack them to it, and see if I'm happy with their positions. If so, I'll put the bucket down, back the tractor out, and finish welding. Then I plan to repaint only the areas where I destroyed the old paint. I am too tired to paint the whole bucket, and I have a hydraulic leak to chase.