What size and thickness plastic pipe for 4x4 post?

[fishpick]

I want to set a section of PVC or other type pipe in the ground and then be able to place a 4x4 post into the pipe. It does not to be a perfectly tight fit. I can shim it. But the point it to allow me to remove the 4x4 as needed.

This is not structural- it’s for posts in a shooting range.

Any idea what type of pipe / thickness? Fits a 4x4 nicely?

 

[Hay Dude]

I’d use schedule 40 4” PVC and just shave your post corners a little. It would take 5 minutes with a circular saw or just use a sharp axe.
You can put PVC caps on the pipes when not in use to keep them clean and make them easier to find.

 

[jmc]

Diagonal of a 3.5x3.5 square is slightly under 5 inches. Standard plastic pipe charts with ID, OD, wall thickness, and schedule are common online.

Personally, I'd just grab a tape measure or a 4x4 stub and go to a plumbing supplier.

 

[Doughknob]

A^2 + B^2 = C^2
C = sqrt(3.5^2 + 3.5^2)
C = 4.95”

 

[bigtiller]

A^2 + B^2 = C^2
C = sqrt(3.5^2 + 3.5^2)
C = 4.95”

Not a single word was written but this ageing D student understands it...It's got to be a first for me.

 

[EddieL]

I would use a 4x4 post sleeve.

 

[ljjhouser]

Considering the cost of 4" or 5" schedule 40 PVC, I might consider schedule 35 vent pvc and set it in concrete so the actual strength doesn't matter. But remember the sizes are a little different. Schedule 35 fittings do not fit Schedule 40 pipe.

 

[bcp]

The holes will get full of dirt and trash, jamming the post. I would go the other way. Short, solid posts, maybe pipe, with a lighter tube, pipe, or post to to slide over it or attach to hold the targets.

Bruce

 

[grsthegreat]

On my target range, i arranged a double row of rail road ties and buried them. left a 4” gap between rows. I can simply make my 2x4 shooting frames and simply place them inside gap.then i place a small x piece of scrap 2x4 at base and screw the upright posts to base. Extremely sturdy. I use the small base crosspiece to straighten the stands….gives me a bit of adjustment.

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[hube2]

Or you might be able to use one of these Amazon.com: Post Protector - Decay Protection 4x4x42 : Patio, Lawn & Garden

 

[fishpick]

Thanks for the input - I was hoping someone just had the right pipe size. I can go to my local plumbing supply house but they are typically not friendly to non contractors and showing up with a 4x4 chunk and asking to wander the pipes in the yard might light the guys head on fire (which makes sense because they are both plumbing and electrical so a fire is not out of the question)... and I didn't think the right size would be in a big box store.

To the Pythagorean theorem guy - I did that - I was looking for an answer not a number.

@grsthegreat - I wish I could do that - but here in western NY - railroad ties are impossible... AND - the whole point of doing this is - where my range is located is at the soft sandy swampy end of our field. Every year I have to add more trees to top of the berm and more soil on top of the trees to keep the height where it needs to be because it is continually sinking into the sandy silt in the spring.

I have a set of 4x4's in the ground now a ways back from the berm for hanging steel - want to move them up close to the berm... but need to be able to pull them to drive through the area to add stuff on top of the berm.

To the guys that recommended the post sleeves - that's not a bad idea, hadn't thought of that - but any I have seen are not a robust as a schedule 40 pipe (or other pipe) - usually they are pretty flimsy - and my concern there is when it's so squishy and I'm driving close to them without a post installed to top off the berm- they collapse some - and then I'm back to digging out and resetting.

@Hay Dude - I think this is probably the simplest answer.

 

[Doughknob]

 

[bigtiller]

A post anchor might be worth a try.

 

[LouNY]

Instead of sinking a base in the ground, set it on top of the ground.
Get an old tire and rim, then fab a box to hold a 2x4 or 4x4 and mount it to the wheel center.
It will be very stable but also easy to move. It will be harder to move but you can hole saw a couple holes in the tire sidewall and fill with concrete if more mass is needed.
Does make them harder to move unless you use a loader.

 

[ljjhouser]

Instead of sinking a base in the ground, set it on top of the ground.
Get an old tire and rim, then fab a box to hold a 2x4 or 4x4 and mount it to the wheel center.
It will be very stable but also easy to move. It will be harder to move but you can hole saw a couple holes in the tire sidewall and fill with concrete if more mass is needed.
Does make them harder to move unless you use a loader.

Good post - makes me remember the volley ball net poles in the gym years ago. Best idea yet. Maybe.

 

[fishpick]

Instead of sinking a base in the ground, set it on top of the ground.
Get an old tire and rim, then fab a box to hold a 2x4 or 4x4 and mount it to the wheel center.
It will be very stable but also easy to move. It will be harder to move but you can hole saw a couple holes in the tire sidewall and fill with concrete if more mass is needed.
Does make them harder to move unless you use a loader.

The world is full of smart people. You my friend are one of them. I think this is a great solution and likely what I’m gonna do!

I’ll go to the tire place and get some used tires. Screw them to a sheet of plywood. Fill them with concrete with holes in them for the posts!

 

[beowulf]

I used a pipe floor flange bolted into a tire rim and filled the tire with concrete for a post I needed to anchor one end of a rectangular swimming pool shade cloth - it is about 10 feet up, and for my use, I also added an eyebolt about half way up and used rope from that to two anchor points for stability. Totally portable - easy up and easy down. It worked well, but as said above, a bit heavy to move - even using a small tire - I just don't have to move it but a few feet each year at the end of swim season. And maybe you could slip your PVC pipes over that - increasing in size to get the diameter you want.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/ReliaBilt-1-1-4-in-x-1-1-4-in-dia-Galvanized-Floor-Flange-Fittings/5013685707

 

[hube2]

Seems like you decided what you are going to do, just want to add how I use the post sleeves for anyone that might be interested.

I have a couple of posts that I remove in the summer. What I did was I dug post holes to hold the post with the sleeve on it and then put cement around the sleeve.

The sleeves where actually extremely tight on the posts, I had to use a farm jack and a chain to pull them out the first time. I sanded down the end of the post so that it fit better and I could put them in and take them out easier.

I cut the sleeves off at ground level so that I can mow without hitting them. I also made a couple of post "slugs". These have a large eye screwed into the top below ground level so that I have a way to remove them. I put these slugs in when the posts are out so that the post hole/sleeve doesn't fill with debris.

 

[fishpick]

Seems like you decided what you are going to do, just want to add how I use the post sleeves for anyone that might be interested.

I have a couple of posts that I remove in the summer. What I did was I dug post holes to hold the post with the sleeve on it and then put cement around the sleeve.

The sleeves where actually extremely tight on the posts, I had to use a farm jack and a chain to pull them out the first time. I sanded down the end of the post so that it fit better and I could put them in and take them out easier.

I cut the sleeves off at ground level so that I can mow without hitting them. I also made a couple of post "slugs". These have a large eye screwed into the top below ground level so that I have a way to remove them. I put these slugs in when the posts are out so that the post hole/sleeve doesn't fill with debris.

I actually kinda like this idea for a few reasons. Might consider this approach instead of the tire.

Some good ideas here!

 

[DaBear3428]

Thanks for the input - I was hoping someone just had the right pipe size. I can go to my local plumbing supply house but they are typically not friendly to non contractors and showing up with a 4x4 chunk and asking to wander the pipes in the yard might light the guys head on fire (which makes sense because they are both plumbing and electrical so a fire is not out of the question)... and I didn't think the right size would be in a big box store.

To the Pythagorean theorem guy - I did that - I was looking for an answer not a number.

@grsthegreat - I wish I could do that - but here in western NY - railroad ties are impossible... AND - the whole point of doing this is - where my range is located is at the soft sandy swampy end of our field. Every year I have to add more trees to top of the berm and more soil on top of the trees to keep the height where it needs to be because it is continually sinking into the sandy silt in the spring.

I have a set of 4x4's in the ground now a ways back from the berm for hanging steel - want to move them up close to the berm... but need to be able to pull them to drive through the area to add stuff on top of the berm.

To the guys that recommended the post sleeves - that's not a bad idea, hadn't thought of that - but any I have seen are not a robust as a schedule 40 pipe (or other pipe) - usually they are pretty flimsy - and my concern there is when it's so squishy and I'm driving close to them without a post installed to top off the berm- they collapse some - and then I'm back to digging out and resetting.

@Hay Dude - I think this is probably the simplest answer.

he did give you the answer you need 4.95" inside diameter pipe or a 5"