5030
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2003
- Messages
- 24,645
- Location
- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
- Tractor
- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
Hopefully it's your water pump. Helluva lot easier than pulling the head off.
My understanding of the way the reservoir works is hot coolant expanding flows from the radiator to the reservoir, which acts as a storage tank. Then as the coolant cools (contracts), radiator vacuum pulls water from the reservoir back into the radiator. By your filling the reservoir when it's cold, as hot coolant comes from the radiator to the reservoir, the reservoir then overflows onto the ground.I have a 30 horse JD 950 from the late 80s. I'm noticing that this summer (after the usual winter storage) it is consuming coolant every time I run it - which is maybe 4 times.. Before brush hogging, I fill the reservoir to full, when I get back from 2-3 hours of work, the reservoir is still full but then the next day after it cools off, the coolant is at the low mark in the reservoir.
I don't see any signs of a leak and there is no white in the exhaust. I know that temp light bulb works - but that has not illuminated while working. Any thoughts?
Where did you come by "this understanding" owner/operator's manual or some other source?My understanding of the way the reservoir works is hot coolant expanding flows from the radiator to the reservoir, which acts as a storage tank. Then as the coolant cools (contracts), radiator vacuum pulls water from the reservoir back into the radiator. By your filling the reservoir when it's cold, as hot coolant comes from the radiator to the reservoir, the reservoir then overflows onto the ground.
The reservoir should be low when cold, and the radiator should be about 1" from full when cold. You don't want to remove the cap when the radiator is hot, as the coolant is under pressure at that time and will blow out all over anything nearby (like you).
Start checking the radiator when cool, and advise. Don't pay any attention to the reservoir.
My understanding of the way the reservoir works is hot coolant expanding flows from the radiator to the reservoir, which acts as a storage tank. Then as the coolant cools (contracts), radiator vacuum pulls water from the reservoir back into the radiator. By your filling the reservoir when it's cold, as hot coolant comes from the radiator to the reservoir, the reservoir then overflows onto the ground.
The reservoir should be low when cold, and the radiator should be about 1" from full when cold. You don't want to remove the cap when the radiator is hot, as the coolant is under pressure at that time and will blow out all over anything nearby (like you).
Start checking the radiator when cool, and advise. Don't pay any attention to the reservoir.
Guys, thanks SO much for your thoughts. Here's a little more info:So if "Have tractor will travel" is correct, then the system is operating as intended.
I like his explanation. It covers all of the OP's original facts, then gives a logical explanation for what is happening, and means that the system is operating as intended. It working that way does depend on the reservoir having an airtight pickup tube that extends down somewhere to or below the bottom half of the reservoir. But most have that.
If it has that tube, I can't resist adding a little more detail to expand "Have Tractor's good advice.
After running the tractor and you shut it off and everything starts to cool down, the fluid in that reservoir will be drawn back into the radiator until one of two things happen.
1. the radiator will suck back fluid until it's radiator vacuum is equal to the air pressure, or .....
2. the radiator will suck back fluid until the fluid level in the reservoir falls below inlet to the pickup tube in the reservoir.
Either one of those things happening will stop the flow back into the radiator. And both are basically good. So when everything is cooled off the next morning make a mark on the reservoir at what ever level that fluid is at, and also take off the radiator cap to check that the fluid in the radiator is at the proper level (about an inch or so down from the cap).
If it is right in the radiator, put the cap on & don't add any more fluid to that reservoir. If it isn't high enough in the radiator or you are uncertain... it won't hurt to add fluid to the radiator.. but NOT to the reservoir. If you had to add fluid to the radiator, expect it may overflow while working but hang in there..... the fluid in the reservoir will go ahead and level itself out by a day later.
After reading through all this anyone can ask questions if they want. But to me it is sounding like the OP's JD950 is working right. I'd say it sounds like it has been getting rid of the unneeded extra coolant and then coming back to proper level the next morning.
And thanks to "Have Tractor will Travel" for his insight.
rScotty
rScotty,Yes, it's easy to see that the problem is probably one of translation. They almost got it right. Where they say if the level is below "Low"mark when cold, they should have then said to add coolant to bring the level to the "Low" mark, not the "Full" mark. That's not surprising, I was around Yanmar and JD tractors and Yanmar service school a lot back then and we constantly had to correct their specs and shop manuals. So just make that change to your manual and it will be fine. And some owner down the road 30 years from now will thank you.
After all, the JD950 is a Japanese tractor, very similar to the ones that Yanmar made and marketed in the USA during the 1970s. We know them pretty well.
I wouldn't change a thing. Why would you? Sounds like yours is fine. I go that long between servicing mine too.
A new thermostat and a new radiator cap won't hurt anything if you just want to.... but it is going to be hard today to match the quality of the original parts on that tractor.
To check a thermostat, take it out of the tractor and put it in a pan of water completely submerged. Slowly heat the water on the stove and watch to see the thermostat open. There is a wax-filled steel bulb that will compress the spring that holds the thermostat shut. Use a candy thermomether to check that it is opening at the proper temperature. Use a candy thermometer for the proper range - $5.00 at the hardware store. Try not to let the water boil.
I forget the exact temperature it's in my service school notes somewhere. I'll post if I find it.
But the thermostat will begin opening somewhere in the 185 to 190 degree range (SEE EDIT BELOW(F) and be around 190 and should be fully open somewhere between 190 and 200 F. TRY NOT TOLET IT BOIL....and be sure to keep it completely submerged. although if you do mess up, the thermostat will probably be OK. Just check it again.
EDIT NEXT DAY: I found one reference in Yanmar's Service notes that when tested in hot water the thermostat should start to move open above 160F... Frankly I've never seen them move that low, but that's what they say. So maybe they do. Thermostat opening is progressive with temperature.
rScotty
BTW, all of those old ethylene glycol cooling systems work best with 50/50 ethylene glycol to water.