Recommended Tractor for 4.5 acres

[Fastdraw]

Hello! I’m under contract on a house with about 4.5 acres (1.1 ac wooded) and would like some opinions.

Most of the property is grassland, so mowing would be the most frequent usage. It has a 300’ dirt driveway and the property needs some grading and dirt work near the foundation, so I’d like a box blade. After the initial grading, the box blade usage will be seasonal for driveway maintenance.

The current owner is using a zero turn mower, but about an acre of the property is severely overgrown. I’d prefer a fail mower to a brush hog for maneuverability.

It also has a hobby farm set up that we’ll continue to use, so the loader will be handy.

It’s in Kansas, so some snow, but not in huge quantities… usually.

I was originally looking at the Kubota BX2380 and Deere 1025R. I’m leaning to Kubota, but it looks like I can get a B2301 for only $1000 more.

This will be my first tractor, but I often used my dad’s Deere 4310 when I was in high school on about the same amount of land. He lives in a state with a lot of snow, so it’s mostly used as a plow.

Are there any other contenders I should look at? And is the B01 worth the price jump over the BX?

Thanks!

I would look at a Mahindra 3600 series..they come in shuttle or HST drive, 36HP especially if you are looking for a FEL, the HST is optimal for mowing and dirt work...the Mahindra will be cheaper also, born of Internationals and modernized some to be a value branded tractor. I just purchased a 4540 and it seems to be a havy built machine, made to work.

 

[HAR]

For my 2 cents:

For me, having a dealer close by is top of the list. Like fire insurance, you hope that you never need it, but when you do, you want help close by. When I was looking for a used tractor, the closest dealers were Kubota, JD, and NH.

As for parts, many parts today are as close as your phone or Internet store, so that is not always as important. Also, that allows some price shopping as well.

If you can, find someone near by with a like or similar tractor to what you think you want. Try it out. Or better yet, find a dealer that will let you test a model. On occasion, you will find one that has a 'used model' that they will 'rent' out for a day or so and let you get the feel.
Make a list of all the features that you 'must' have and another side list of "nice" to have's. Once you have a list of tractors that meet those needs, then do comparative price shopping.

 

[Pleease]

Seriously, 4.5 acres in Kansas (mostly flat I assume) any of the sub compacts will do what you need within reason. The little tractors like the BX are quite capable but you have smaller loader and lift, less side to side stability and less weight. They will do a ton work once you learn their limit and don't pretend it is big tractor. I have 4500 hours on mine and moves dirt and rocks all the time. It small nimble and fits into 4 foot spaces. I like the belly mower for areas my Z turns don't like or when I want gather up some bedding for the rabbits. I will mow serious slopes and knee high grass with few complaints. The 3 point will handle anything for it's class but sometimes I've had to fix implement to get them low enough for the short BX.

The next size up (B series, etc) increases hydraulic power, weight and stability. Will handle some bigger tools and you might see over the weeds instead of into them as you brush hog. It will not be as nimble nor will it go through a 4 foot gate but will gain a ground clearance and bigger tires. The little BX tires and short wheel base will beat you on rough ground and it worse with loader full. The bigger loader will move more and lift heavier things. Don't know about a belly mower but it will sure pull any type of 3 point mower you want (in the right sizes of course).

I was assuming Kansas = "flat" too, but if it's hilly a B might be more ideal, as you mentioned. I have a BX1880 in Kentucky and I'm on a pretty steep hillside a lot. I'm careful and have developed my tip-o-meter (aka my posterior), and it's working out fine, but the wider stance of the B would be a + in hilly conditions.

 

[Papa T]

I've had an LS 33 HP 4WD for over 10 years. I have a box blade, loader, brush hog and front and rear hay spears. (I use the front ones for a whole lot of things besides hay). The LS is normally 7-8 thousand cheaper than the premier brands, and I have had very few problems with it.

 

[Pleease]

With respect to the FEL/box blade discussion, I would emphasize that it's not "either" an FEL "or" a box blade - having both would be nice (i don't have a bb yet), and also lots of people use the box blade for ballast weight when the FEL is on the tractor. I have a Heavy Hitch/suitecase weights for my BX, but in retrospect a box blade might've been a more efficient use of $.

 

[Hermio]

Hello! I’m under contract on a house with about 4.5 acres (1.1 ac wooded) and would like some opinions.

Most of the property is grassland, so mowing would be the most frequent usage. It has a 300’ dirt driveway and the property needs some grading and dirt work near the foundation, so I’d like a box blade. After the initial grading, the box blade usage will be seasonal for driveway maintenance.

The current owner is using a zero turn mower, but about an acre of the property is severely overgrown. I’d prefer a fail mower to a brush hog for maneuverability.

It also has a hobby farm set up that we’ll continue to use, so the loader will be handy.

It’s in Kansas, so some snow, but not in huge quantities… usually.

I was originally looking at the Kubota BX2380 and Deere 1025R. I’m leaning to Kubota, but it looks like I can get a B2301 for only $1000 more.

This will be my first tractor, but I often used my dad’s Deere 4310 when I was in high school on about the same amount of land. He lives in a state with a lot of snow, so it’s mostly used as a plow.

Are there any other contenders I should look at? And is the B01 worth the price jump over the BX?

Thanks!

If you can afford it, still get a ZTR for most of your mowing. I used to have a Kubota B7100 HST with a 60" mower. It took me about 3-3.5 hours to mow 5 acres, and then I still had to trim up with a push mower and a weedwhacker, as a tractor cannot get into tight places. My Bad Boy ZTR mows the whole thing in 90 minutes, and I do not need to trim with a push mower. If you also get a tractor, get a loader and a small bush hog. I used to use a 4' model with the Kubota. I would also suggest considering Mahindra for small tractors.

 

[JWR]

Don't limit yourself to orange and green. Red (Massey, Mahindra, TYM and Branson) and blue (LS and New Holland) are every bit as capable and usually cost quite a bit less.

Limit yourself to whatever color has a good cheerful and cooperative dealer near by. YOU WILL have continuing needs to work with a dealer be it questions, parts, upgrades, repairs -- dealers are very nearly more important than whatever brand they sell. Ask around. See what the farmers (even weekend farmers) say about the local dealers. Valuable.

 

[JWR]

Weight = work for ground engaging tasks. The lighter the machine, the harder it is to get an implement into the ground or move things.

I would not go smaller than a Kubota B series (or JD 2 series) or equivalent. I am also not a fan of flail mowers...300 moving parts vs 50 on a rotary cutter. Just more to break. Personal preference here.

How much dirt needs to be moved?

Agree on the mower. You mention a pretty rough section of growth. Flail mowers are more expensive and easier to damage even in relatively minor brush and debris than a rotary mower. I have used 4', 5' brush hogs on the compact size tractors and I'd lean to a 5ft in your case on a roughly 26-30hp tractor. Don't even think about a 2WD. 4WD is essential.

 

[JWR]

i hear you, get comfortable with the dealer first, but IMO if i was comfortable with the dealer and had the ability to haul the tractor, 90 miles if it is good roads is not that much more trouble than a 25 mile drive considering the work involved in connecting the trailer loading and securing the tractor and then have to leave it at the dealer for 3 days before they can look at it etc.

LS has a great lineup and very attractive pricing right now and that is comming from someone who just bought and loves a Mahindra.

There is no way in H I would go with an LS tractor in lieu of other good brands when the LS dealer is 90 miles away.

 

[ActiveWV]

Don't limit yourself to orange and green. Red (Massey, Mahindra, TYM and Branson) and blue (LS and New Holland) are every bit as capable and usually cost quite a bit less.

Hi Diggin it,

I currently own a 5045E and are looking to purchase a smaller size tractor (25HP) for cutting the grass mostly lol (joking but not really) I’ve been looking around at a lot of different brands including JD, Mahindra Kubota and Kioti and I’m just not seeing much difference in price. I’m leaning towards and 2025R Bc the increased weight and ground clearance over the 1025 which should only run you about 2500 more for the 2025R

However the JD 2025R does not allow you to operate the mid mountain mower independently unless you buy a conversion kit. If you go to the next size up the 2032 I believe you’ve got the command cut standard but you’re looking at it a price jump of 6K.

My advice is don’t make the fatal error of buying too small of a tractor take advantage of the 0% interest for 60 months and go ahead and get ya at 5045 and have them set the wheels out this is a very safe you can dig with the loader it’ll be a a tractor for you for a long time.

If you’re stuck on the price point of under 25 I’m gonna say look really hard at the kioti cs 2520 I found an advertised deal of $13,700 base +

Add Attachments-
SL2420SSOA Loader- $2,599
SM20 Series Mower in 54" or 60"- $2,099
SB2420 Backhoe with your choice of bucket
$5.799

That’s a little over 24k for a front loader, 60 MMBM, and backhoe. Unfortunately I’ve seen quotes from different dealers on the same tractor for 5K more

The local Mahindra dealer wants 30 K for the same set up and that’s what I was quoted for a JD2025.

I definitely would not go with a rural King tractor they use different manufacturers about every five years and parts can be difficult to come by, just my opinion of course.