All I have done is align the marks on the pump and remove it to be rebuilt. the shaft stayed in place and have not touched anything else. I should be ok ?
You should be Ok but you have too make sure you get #1 cylinder at TDC. Is should have a mark on the gear. Once you get the engine set at #1 TDC you can go and time your fuel pump. You can also remove #1 injector and stick a piece of wire and when timing marks match the notches on the main pulley with wire indicating moving out of cylinder. Maybe someone can add what rockers are "rocking" when 1 is at TDC but I am not certain with a 3 cylinder engine.
Thank you for your reply. The link is for a 706 with a Bosch pump. My tractor has a G188D motor with a Roosamaster pump. My plan was to do the wire trick to verify #1 and TDC
No problem. Best of luck. All these pumps and these drive gears to them usually have inspection plates to set timing. Also keep in mind a lot of times these gears and pumps will have multiple markings on them due engine model, size or engine rotation. Just make sure using the right marks. A tech manual or getting specific settings for you engine model will be a huge plus to get a specific deg. setting for advance. Sometimes its written somewhere on the engine.
I get you, my relative does do this for a living and has for his whole career so I believe he did his part right.
Finally!!! got it started, followed eveyones suggestions and lined up all marks , made sure dots lined up, got it all lined up at 8degrees BFTD and bled injectors and she started and is running!!! Thanks to all!!!
Thanks for posting the update. Glad to hear we were able to offer some assistance in getting you up and running again.
If it's cold enough for snow, and he ain't got heat...them old tractors won't hit. You can wear your starter out and charge batteries all day, they ain't touching off. Now, he could drain the water and fill it with hot water from the house, see what it does. Out of the thousands of tractors, or diesels, never had a pump problem. And I only use ether to seat beads on tires. I don't put it in engines.
The original poster, posted in post number 28 he had remove the pump, aligned the dots, ETC and everything is fine.
Start with the closest place from the fuel pump you can loosen a bolt or nut then crank it. Once you get fuel spurts tighten that back up then go nearest the cylinders you can find another nut/bold to loosen and crank again until fuel spurts. If you get no fuel from the start you may need to disconnect fuel line from tank and blow air into the tank to A) make sure there is no clog in the line. Once you are satisfied no clogs follow the fuel line to the next spot you can open that section of line and do the same. Something I should have mentioned first is to check and make sure the valve below the tank is in the ON position. Mine is a 580CK extendahoe and yours could be different. Another thing to check is the filter. On mine there are 2 6" diameter casings under the tractor, one for fuel and one for hydraulic fluid. You might want to pull the fuel filter and clean it. On an old (50s) Cat D6 orchard track layer I pulled 10 pounds of goo from the fuel filter that surprised me it ran at all. Hope this or other posts get it fired up. The image is how not to park your tractor when scraping roads. Thank God I managed to stall it before the roll down the hillside started.
