Kioti NX 4510

[Username Taken]

Yes, and I believe that the passive regen would never start until the engine is at operating temperature. At least that has been my experience. It has always been after I had been operating for at least 30 minutes.

Passive regen is a misnomer from what I understand. There really is no such thing, again, from what I understand.

What they call 'passive' regen is just the normal operation of your diesel once the exhaust (DPF) reaches 350 degrees centigrade. At that temperature (from my understanding ) the DPF is just burning off the soot naturally. The DPF is working well at that point.

Active regen is when the diesel goes into regen on its own because the DPF is getting clogged, while you're operating it. Manual regen (my understanding ) is when you haven't worked the engine hard or long enough to burn off the soot in the DPF and the tractor needs to clean the DPF out so it can operate without a clogged-up exhaust system. Which helps engines run well

I don't think it's that complicated but understanding can, IMO, help avoid problems. The key to understand it might be -- To ignore my opinions

 

[Username Taken]

If the warning light comes on when the engine is cold, it is recommended in the instructions to let it warm up before pushing the switch.

Yeah, that instruction is a little fuzzy to me. I don't have a DPF on my tractor so I was wondering if you can turn the regen switch to 'OFF' in order to avoid a 'cold' regen.

I don't think the ECM's on these tractors are all that sophisticated and, to me, a cold regen could be a bad thing.

My only experience with regens, etc, was on my Ram CTD. Whole different ballgame.

When I was looking to buy a tractor, LS caught my eye. Then I started to read about problems they were having with motors taking a dump because of cold regens.

 

[Alan46]

Regen might be a secondary issue. It would be helpful if you could put your location in your profile so that we have a better understanding of your operating environment.

I'd check on the fuel situation. Verify that you don't have water in your filter or that there's blockage happening: I encountered blockages in my fuel line from/at the tank due to frozen water (pellets); bad fuel cap was letting in rainwater. If you have water in your fuel your sensor should detect that: as noted for me, water was freezing IN the tank and blocking the fuel line out in which case the engine was being starved for fuel.

After checking the things in the above post. I would check to see if you have fuel coming out of the filter to the fuel rail! Several years ago I had an issues with my 2005 CK25 HST, with 900 hrs the RPM went up for no reason that I could see ( no white smoke ) made it back to the barn filter looked good but no fuel coming out of the fuel rail it turned out to be one of the three ( I’ll call them gears inside) had sheared off some teeth. I found out from this site a tutorial with pictures how to fix it without having to buy a 1,200.00 part!

Have you checked to see if you are getting fuel? Let us know!

 

[IndyJay]

Passive regen is a misnomer from what I understand. There really is no such thing, again, from what I understand.

What they call 'passive' regen is just the normal operation of your diesel once the exhaust (DPF) reaches 350 degrees centigrade. At that temperature (from my understanding ) the DPF is just burning off the soot naturally. The DPF is working well at that point.

Active regen is when the diesel goes into regen on its own because the DPF is getting clogged, while you're operating it. Manual regen (my understanding ) is when you haven't worked the engine hard or long enough to burn off the soot in the DPF and the tractor needs to clean the DPF out so it can operate without a clogged-up exhaust system. Which helps engines run well

I don't think it's that complicated but understanding can, IMO, help avoid problems. The key to understand it might be -- To ignore my opinions

No, there is actually a regeneration mode that the system performs based upon delta P across the DPF among other things. Not sure what all it does but it definitely changes the fuel delivery above what you have set for RPM. There is a distinct change in engine note when it comes on and there is a bit of a burning smell. For mine, it lasts about 10-15 minutes and then the light goes out and everything returns to normal. The first time it did it, it had a real strong odor I guess since it was burning off some things for the first time. After that it smelled sort of like burnt toast. I was expecting something more dramatic after everything I had read. It was kind of anti-climatic, like, "wow, that's it?"

Active Regen is what I just described, a Parked Regen is what the system "warns" you to do if the above didn't keep things clear. May also indicate feul problems or other things, but for normal operation with good fuel. that is how it should happen until the filter needs a professional bake out.

 

[Alan46]

I found this about the issue I had with my CK25 HST!

In the case of diesels the injection pumps has gears that turn by way of a tooth rail that opens and closes the amount of fuel injected which controls engine speed as well as shut off the engine when fully closed unlike on a gas engine where the rpm is controlled by the amount of air through the intake. In the case of the Kioti's there was cases where the fuel solenoid would slam the rail to the point that it would break the teeth off of the rotating gears in the pump and jam the pump in the closed position which would prevent start, or in the full open position which would prevent the governor from controlling the engine speed similar to your gas engine failure.

 

[Username Taken]

No, there is actually a regeneration mode that the system performs based upon delta P across the DPF among other things. Not sure what all it does but it definitely changes the fuel delivery above what you have set for RPM. There is a distinct change in engine note when it comes on and there is a bit of a burning smell. For mine, it lasts about 10-15 minutes and then the light goes out and everything returns to normal. The first time it did it, it had a real strong odor I guess since it was burning off some things for the first time. After that it smelled sort of like burnt toast. I was expecting something more dramatic after everything I had read. It was kind of anti-climatic, like, "wow, that's it?"

Sounds like a new Bride on her Wedding Night.

Active Regen is what I just described, a Parked Regen is what the system "warns" you to do if the above didn't keep things clear. May also indicate feul problems or other things, but for normal operation with good fuel. that is how it should happen until the filter needs a professional bake out.

I don't think we're disagreeing at all. Passive Regen is just the engine operating at normal (for them) Temp. Active Regen is when it dumps fuel into the DPF and Manual Regen is when you have to park it and let it regen because you done let it get too full of soot.

My concern is when it wants to go into Active or Manual Regen when the engine is too cold. Or rather, IF it will go into regen when the engine is too cold. To me, that would not be a good thing

 

[Kioti Dave]

On my 2016 NX4510, regen never starts until the tractor is at operating temps. Auto regen is the normal mode of operation(lets you continue to use the tractor). I have had to do a manual regen 3 times which requires the tractor parked and left alone for it to do it's thing. Not sure why it occasionally goes into that mode. I always make time to allow the auto regen to finish. Auto regen takes 20 minutes or so. Manual regen takes 30 to 35 minutes.

 

[Lt. El Diablo]

The instructions in the manual are confusing at best, misleading at worse. I originally read that to mean that when the "regen light" came on I was to follow those steps. I was fortunate to see better descriptions of these lamps on this forum. There are actually two "regen" lights... the "underway" lamp and the "warning" lamp. The manual does not clearly instruct you to just keep working with the first which is more of an "FYI" indicator. You are supposed to keep RPMs at ~PTO speed until it is finished. The operator can cancel the passive regen if it is not a good time to do it. I have made the decision to always make time to let it run. That section of the manual does not address the "underway" lamp, it jumps straight to the "warning". The "warning" (as I understand it) would mostly occur if for some reason the passive regens were summarily cancelled or did not keep the DPF clean for some reason.

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On my 2016 NX4510, regen never starts until the tractor is at operating temps. Auto regen is the normal mode of operation(lets you continue to use the tractor). I have had to do a manual regen 3 times which requires the tractor parked and left alone for it to do it's thing. Not sure why it occasionally goes into that mode. I always make time to allow the auto regen to finish. Auto regen takes 20 minutes or so. Manual regen takes 30 to 35 minutes.

Is yours still good since they fixed it? Mine is in the shop after similar symptoms. Parked regens every 4 hours etc. They finally figured out the turbo was leaking oil . It is being replaced. Noticeable oil loss began at 70 hours, approximately 1/2 ounce per hour. I reported it at the time.

 

[IndyJay]

Is yours still good since they fixed it? Mine is in the shop after similar symptoms. Parked regens every 4 hours etc. They finally figured out the turbo was leaking oil . It is being replaced. Noticeable oil loss began at 70 hours, approximately 1/2 ounce per hour. I reported it at the time.

Yeah, that would clog a DPF...

 

[Lt. El Diablo]

Yeah, that would clog a DPF...

Yep, it did. I think Kioti Dave had a bad turbo and got his engine replaced as well. I believe my tractor has the same engine.