2008 CK20 not starting, stalling out

[Slackdaddy]

2008 CK20HST, 375 hours on it. Never had a problem with the engine, always starts right up,, oil/filter, etc changed on schedule.

The other day I was using th Kioti to load stuff in the Pickup, turned it off to strap the load, hopped back on and it turns over fine but no start.
1/2 tank of fuel, fuel filter looked good.
Sprayed a little either in the air cleaner and it started right up, drove it for 5 minutes and parked it. 5 min later it started right up.

2 days later, it started right up, I had it running for 15 minutes moving stuff around, put it down to idle and it died,, cranked but no start.
A little squirt of either and started right up,, anything below 1000 - 1500 rpm it dies,, runs fine at 2000 rpm with good power.

Ordering new fuel filter, but the old one looks fine.
What elese should I be checking ??

 

[BillyB196]

defiantly sounds like a fuel issue. could be clogged or damaged hoses, dirty fuel filter, bad fuel, fuel pump, fuel shutoff solenoid, etc. i think you're on the right track as fuel filter is easiest and cheapest check.

 

[Slackdaddy]

defiantly sounds like a fuel issue. could be clogged or damaged hoses, dirty fuel filter, bad fuel, fuel pump, fuel shutoff solenoid, etc. i think you're on the right track as fuel filter is easiest and cheapest check.

Deff fuel,,
The way it came on suddenly, I don't think it is bad fuel.
I will shut the fuel off, change filter and blow the lines out, if that does not do it I'll bypass the cut off solenoid.
Then, if that does not fix it, guess I'll be looking at the pumps?

Question, Is there a lift or low pressure pump, to get fuel to the main injector pump? or does the IP do it all ?

 

[BillyB196]

i believe on the CK20 the IP does it all.

 

[Slackdaddy]

UPDATE:
On the Ck20 there is a small lift pump on the side of the engine, just below the Injector Pump.
I connected a 2' piece of fuel line to the output of the lift pump and stuck the end in a plastic bottle., it is pumping, clean fresh diesel fuel.
I cracked the bolt that holds the fuel inlet on the IP,, fuel comes out there when cranking.
I cracked (3-4 full turns) the injector line nuts on the front 2 injectors,, nothing after a few times cranking it over.

The fuel cut off solenoid makes a loud click (when I turn the key) and I can feel it actuating.
I pulled the solenoid and left it connected, the rod pulls in when you turn the key on.

So, fuel going into the IP, but not coming out.

Why does it do it sometimes, but not always ?? And only after it warms up.

 

[thepumpguysc]

U probably have a sticking control rack in the inj pump..
That’s about the only thing that’ll make one shut off at idle..(won’t recover)

 

[Robin Veerman]

What type of fuel are you using? Regular ultra low sulphur diesel, bio-diesel, stove oil…? Also, any diesel additives?
Is there a history with the CK20 similar to the CK30, where the IP fails and needs a rebuild?

 

[Slackdaddy]

U probably have a sticking control rack in the inj pump..
That’s about the only thing that’ll make one shut off at idle..(won’t recover)

I was just reading some of your posts from a few years back when you posted.

So the question is, with the questionable injectors from the year my tractor was built,,
What would make the rack hang up?
Am I looking at a pump rebuild?
Why will it start and then run if I give it a bit of either? does the control rack free up?
Also,, It started fine in the morning (cold), then ran for a good 20 minutes then died, That did allow me to diagnose that the IP is GETTING fuel,, but not to the injectors.

I was going to be contacting you about a IP rebuild.
So will this require me to pull the IP and get it up on the bench?

What type of fuel are you using? Regular ultra low sulphur diesel, bio-diesel, stove oil…? Also, any diesel additives?
Is there a history with the CK20 similar to the CK30, where the IP fails and needs a rebuild?

Plain old gas station road fuel (Diesel)

 

[Slackdaddy]

So,, got the pump out, the rack was hanging up for sure.
Disassembled on the bench,, the middle control sleeve (gear) had 2 damaged teeth.

Now,, I took a "small parts box" and labeled each section #1, #2, #3,, so I could leep the parts organized and separate.
That said, I think there is a roughly 25% chance I mixed up the plunger on 2 and 3,, but have no idea if I did or not.
I pulled the guts out for #1 hole, put everything in slot #1 in my organizer,
I pulled the guts for hole #2 and put them in the slot #2 in my organizer,
I pulled the guts for #3 and as I was putting them in the slot for # 3 (in the organizer) and noticed a plunger laying on the Towel.
There was no plunger in the #1 slot of the organizer, #2 had a plunger with it's parts.
I am ~90% sure I was looking at the numbers on the 1st plunger I pulled (#1) and then laid it on the towel.

So I am assuming there is no way to tell if I switched up plungers on 1-2 or not.
The "spacer" under the roller for #2 is 1.5 thousands thinner that #1 and #3 (1 and 3 spacers are the same thickness.

Also, the rollers on the lifters look a little "scorn" ?

I am mechanically inclined and build engines,, BUT
Is it time to take it to a pro?

 

[thepumpguysc]

Lol.. Fkn kids.!!
The plungers r mated to its barrel.. with that said..try to fit the plungers w it’s barrel..
DO NOT FORCE IT.!!
If it won’t go, grab the other one and try..
I’d be happy to reassemble it for u WITH NEW gears, gaskets and seals..
But seeing u took it apart.. it costs extra..
Shoot me a pm.