My 2007 MF1533 is overheating

[FMFProperties]

I've owned it since new and it just started overheating now that winter is over and I'm starting to use it. I did a radiator flush and added new coolant (mixed it 50/50), installed a new thermostat (was stuck open), installed both new air filters, changed oil and filter, cleaned the radiator fins (going to do a better job tomorrow after reading some thing on this forum), and I'd like to go ahead and change the 2 radiator to engine hoses while I'm at it since they're 16 years old.

Does anyone have the part numbers for these two hoses so I can order them? Thank you.

 

[JWR]

Cannot help with the hose numbers but why bother? Seems unnecessary to me. I think by far the greater concern should be "Have I fixed the overheating?" and "Do I know for sure what the problem was?" You said the t-stat was stuck open and that would cause the engine coolant to run cooler than normal, NOT overheating. Was it OK in the winter or were you not using it then? What is the rest of the story?

 

[FMFProperties]

I wasn't using it during winter, I used my cab tractor with heater. The hoses are ready for changing, you can hear them cracking inside when you squeeze them. Besides, they're not that expensive and I'm also going to change the fan belt when it arrives.

 

[EdGooding]

I have the same tractor that I also bought new in '06. I bush hog a lot with it here in VA and have found that it really sucks in "stuff" and I not only have to stop after an hour or so to clean the two screens, but I also have to blow or hose off the bottom section of the radiator after I am done each time. I hope that your issue is as simple as that. Best of luck with it.

 

[seville009]

I have a MF1540. Same issue when brush hogging a field once at the end if each summer.

The radiator fins get clogged deep inside. Blowing with an air compressor or just brushing the fins won’t get it all.

What i do when the engine is cold is just take a garden hose and let water run through the fins. Does not have to be a high pressure stream; just a steady stream to soak and push all of the gunk through the fins.

I’ve found that really improves things.

 

[lpakiz]

I realize that the radiators on some of these
tractors are difficult to access, but the second most common cause of overheating is a plugged up radiator, especially if you have a transmission cooler, air conditioner condenser, or after cooler for a turbo.
That said, the most reliable way to check for a plugged core is to maneuver a light bulb in behind the radiator, along side the fan blades. Do this inside or on a cloudy day. After placing the bulb or trouble light, look into the front of the radiator. If you can't plainly see light, you have a problem that needs further investigating. Many condensers and oil coolers can be unfastened and swung out of the way, allowing better vision and/or cleaning.
The bottom line is, you must be able to see light thru most of the core to have effective cooling.

Oh, the MOST common cause of overheating? Fan belts not gripping the pullys. If you have a fixed fan, grab a blade and try to rotate the fan. The force should try to roll the engine, at least until you come up on compression. If your fan is not solid or easily accessible, put a wrench or socket on the alternator pulley and attempt to rotate the engine. If it slips easily, there is a problem.
Belts can be pretty tight to the feel, but still not be gripping the pullys.
When the belt is gripping properly, the engine fan should "roar" or "buzz" at wide open throttle.

 

[5030]

Douse the rad down with Dawn dishwash soap (diluted) and let it soak for at least 1/2 hour and then flush it out. I use a Radaitor Genie myself. Works well on your whole house ac outside condenser too.

 

[5030]

Bought a 'Genie' for the guy I run hay for. He has an old International gas utility tractor that he putters with and he too has an overheating issue. I believe it's a plugged rad. Not that expensive on Amazon either, les than 30 bucks.

 

[Hay Dude]

I have a MF1540. Same issue when brush hogging a field once at the end if each summer.

The radiator fins get clogged deep inside. Blowing with an air compressor or just brushing the fins won’t get it all.

What i do when the engine is cold is just take a garden hose and let water run through the fins. Does not have to be a high pressure stream; just a steady stream to soak and push all of the gunk through the fins.

I’ve found that really improves things.

Flush radiator with garden hose for good 1/2 hour or more if you haven’t done that already. If you have access to hot water, even better.

 

[5030]

The addition of a dishwash detergent like Dawn will not only improve the crud removal but will soften the crud to flush it away. SOP for me and not just tractors but the AC whole house unit as well as the cars and trucks.

Ever bother to look at your car or truck heat exchangers, bet not and most are loaded with bugs and road crud. The more loaded they are the less efficient they become.