BX 23, sputtering and hard/won't start

[safar]

Having a real issue getting my BX 23 to start.
I crank it to the point the battery feels like it would die. Sometimes it starts and immediately shuts down, other times it starts perhaps sputters for a few minutes and then shuts down.
I thought it's probably a fuel issue as it's been sitting for a while. Drained the tank, put fresh fuel, changed the filters but no luck.

I disconnected the filter line after the second filter (next to the engine), turn the key one step and get fuel flowing out, so I know I have fuel working up to that point. (pic attached of where I disconnected)

Would really appreciate any thoughts - I seem to feel it's a fuel issue, but don't know what else to try.

 

[seville009]

Can’t hurt to check the air filter - make sure there’s not a critter nest in there blocking the air

 

[/pine]

You might crack one of the fuel return lines to make sure there is good fuel returning...no water...

 

[safar]

Thanks so much - checked and replaced the air filter too..
Sorry, I don't think I know how to crack the return fuel lines...Would you be able to point me to how to do this? I'll search of course, but never had to do that.

 

[JWR]

I do not see any mention of having bled the fuel system. That would be the first thing to do with your symptoms. Of course, get your battery built back up. Long periods of cranking are not helpful. I think I would open each high pressure line where it connects to an injector and make sure you have fuel squirting at each injector. Doing that will not only check flow and that the injection pump is working but also serves to bleed the fuel lines. I suspect it will run after that.
How many hours on it? Ever had these issues before (like before it was let sit a while?)

 

[safar]

Thank you - I'm fairly new to dealing with a fuel issue and wasn't too sure about messing something up opening the high pressure lines and couldn't find any clear instructions - but will do this today and report back.
About 1300 hours on it.
Never had this issue before..It would be hard to start sometimes in the winter, but wasn't ever really an issue and ran well.

Thanks so much - appreciate the insight.

 

[/pine]

Thanks so much - checked and replaced the air filter too..
Sorry, I don't think I know how to crack the return fuel lines...Would you be able to point me to how to do this? I'll search of course, but never had to do that.

Search on youtube for clearing fuel line issues....the return lines are low pressure so they are usually just spring clamped etc...

Sometimes when a tractor has been sitting with less than a full tank of fuel moisture will condensate in the tank...when cranking the water can get pumped into the injector lines and returns...so some water gets "returned" back to the system...
The solution if there is water in the tank drain it out and check the filter before cranking...

 

[JWR]

Thank you - I'm fairly new to dealing with a fuel issue and wasn't too sure about messing something up opening the high pressure lines and couldn't find any clear instructions - but will do this today and report back.
About 1300 hours on it.
Never had this issue before..It would be hard to start sometimes in the winter, but wasn't ever really an issue and ran well.

Thanks so much - appreciate the insight.

1300 hrs is not high enough hours to expect serious injection pump issues or compression, etc. The high pressure lines are very small plumbing (look like 1/4" outside diameter) going out from the injection pump and each has a fitting that should loosen with a very small open end wrench right at the injector. They make 'tubing wrenches' that are like box ends with a small opening so you can use them on tubing without it being loose. They are better for not slipping but also probably not worth buying a set. Most likely those injector line fittings use metric sizes. They will be tight but should not be too hard to loosen. Make sure you have a good tight fit and don't round off the edges of the fittings. Just do one at a time and retighten each one before you loosen the next. It will not take more than a couple or 3 seconds of cranking to see the squirt going on BUT if it is foamy or hissing let it crank longer until that quits.

 

[safar]

The high pressure lines are very small plumbing (look like 1/4" outside diameter) going out from the injection pump and each has a fitting that should loosen with a very small open end wrench right at the injector.

Thank you so much - I've been watching a few videos and reading other posts, but your instructions make great sense.
I should be able to go try this in a few hours and report back.

I had taken a photo last night and think I understand.
There the rubber tube on the right side, which if I understand correctly is the fuel line coming in and the injection pump is each of the ones i've marked in red.

Really appreciate it - I know it all sounds easy, but I was hesitant to mess anything up before being sure I understood.

 

[dodge man]

BX tractors are self bleeding. Two things to check. They have a small lift pump, it almost looks like a fuel filter but it’s metal. Make sure it’s clicking when you turn the key on but don’t start. I’d also change both filters even though you said you had flow. They are very small and plug easily and they are also cheap. They also had a problem with the sending unit rusting and plugging things up.