Splitting well line

[prichard]

My well is about 70' from where the main line enters my basement where the pressure tank and switch are. Can I connect a line at the well for irrigation? Or would this somehow affect how the pressure system functions?

 

[jyoutz]

My well is about 70' from where the main line enters my basement where the pressure tank and switch are. Can I connect a line at the well for irrigation? Or would this somehow affect how the pressure system functions?

As long as you connect after the pressure tank if shouldn’t make a difference. IDK if you connect before the pressure tank. I assume that as long as your flow is strong it should work.

 

[nybirdman]

After the pressure switch will work;before?what is going to turn the pump on?

 

[LittleBill21]

After the pressure switch will work;before?what is going to turn the pump on?

isn't the only check valve in the foot of the well, pretty sure the pressure is going to drop at the switch if he pulls before it.

 

[LouNY]

The only issue that I have had with that type of connection is that depending on the type of pressure switch you have on your system, mine has a low pressure cutout to stop the pump on low low pressure. Turning on the outside hydrant rapidly will pull water from the pressure tank and cause it to kit the low low cutoff before the pump gets pressure back into the system. So I just turn the hydrant on slowly and no issue. Part of my problem is that the house and hydrant are fed with 1 1/4" line and it's a high flow hydrant.

 

[prichard]

isn't the only check valve in the foot of the well, pretty sure the pressure is going to drop at the switch if he pulls before it.

That was what I was hoping. I don't see a check valve plumbed in between the tank/switch and the well.

 

[Paddy]

we had spigot at the well head to water our garden. The pressure is equal on entire line. I would recommend a check valve to keep and back flow out

 

[Pettrix]

I have a similar setup. One well feeds two homes. No issues that I can detect from having the pressure tank on the other house. As once any water is drawn through the frost proof bib or the other house, the line pressure drops and the well pump kicks on. The only check valves are in the well drop pipe itself.

 

[turnkey4099]

isn't the only check valve in the foot of the well, pretty sure the pressure is going to drop at the switch if he pulls before it.

There shouild be only one checkvavle at the pump, no shutoffs befoe the pressure switch.

He will be fine cutting in anywhere on the line between the pump and pressure switch as hydraulic pressure is equal through out thesystem static (no water running). Pressure will vary a little depending on lenght of run from tank to point of use due to friction and fitting reduction. Not enough to cause a problem...except in my house and I did the installation. Line runs from pump into basement and Ts off into 1/2" pipe and fittings (several) on ways out of basement to standpipes in garden. Definitely a mistake on my part.

 

[Valveman]

As was said, as long as there is no check valve above ground it will work. The only check valve needed is the one down the well on the pump anyway. The most important thing is to match whatever size irrigation zones you have to the size of the pump. If the sprinklers are not using ALL the water the pump can produce, it will cause the pump to cycle on and off until dead. It is hard to match every irrigation zone to the size of the pump. Doing so also uses all the water the pump can produce, which leaves the house at really low pressure when someone uses water. Adding a Cycle Stop Valve before the tee to the irrigation can solve those problems and many more. With a CSV you can irrigate at any flow rate you want without cycling the pump to death. Then, running sprinkler zones smaller than the pump can supply leaves plenty of flow and pressure if the house needs water.

 

[Valveman]

The only issue that I have had with that type of connection is that depending on the type of pressure switch you have on your system, mine has a low pressure cutout to stop the pump on low low pressure. Turning on the outside hydrant rapidly will pull water from the pressure tank and cause it to kit the low low cutoff before the pump gets pressure back into the system. So I just turn the hydrant on slowly and no issue. Part of my problem is that the house and hydrant are fed with 1 1/4" line and it's a high flow hydrant.

Those hydrants can let out enough water to make the pump system go off on low pressure. Reducing the air charge in the pressure tank about 5 PSI should stop the low pressure cut off switch from bouncing the pump off when the hydrant is opened. However, a low pressure cut off is not very good protection for a low producing well, which is why most people have them. They also cause lots of nuisance trips, like the ones you mentioned. They also usually need resetting after a power outage or after opening too many faucets.

Using a Cycle Sensor is much better protection from running the pump dry. It also will not cause nuisance trips and resets itself after a power outage.

 

[MossRoad]

I think most places require (and even if they don't, it's a good idea) to install a vacuum breaker before the irrigation system if it's also tied to potable water in the house. This prevents back flow of chemicals/contamination from the irrigation system into the house and well.

 

[LouNY]

Those hydrants can let out enough water to make the pump system go off on low pressure. Reducing the air charge in the pressure tank about 5 PSI should stop the low pressure cut off switch from bouncing the pump off when the hydrant is opened. However, a low pressure cut off is not very good protection for a low producing well, which is why most people have them. They also cause lots of nuisance trips, like the ones you mentioned. They also usually need resetting after a power outage or after opening too many faucets.

Using a Cycle Sensor is much better protection from running the pump dry. It also will not cause nuisance trips and resets itself after a power outage.

I have the low pressure safety cutoff in case of a broken line, I'm fortunate enough that it would be difficult for even my 3/4 Hp pump to pump down my well. When the kids were young and I had a pool for them I could fill the pool (24') in less then 24 hours and still have good pressure in the house. It would draw down the well about 12-15' from the casing overflow.

 

[Valveman]

I have the low pressure safety cutoff in case of a broken line, I'm fortunate enough that it would be difficult for even my 3/4 Hp pump to pump down my well. When the kids were young and I had a pool for them I could fill the pool (24') in less then 24 hours and still have good pressure in the house. It would draw down the well about 12-15' from the casing overflow.

A low pressure cut off is also not very effective to protect from a broken line either. The break must be large enough to cause the pressure to get low. Any leak less than the max flow of the pump will still cause flooding.

I use a Samsung Smarthub, an Aeotec Smart Switch, and have leak sensors all over the place. Any small leak behind a toilet, dishwasher, water heater, etc, will set off one of the leak sensors and shuts off the pump. The only nuisance trips I have had is when my Granddaughter picked up one of the leak sensors. Lol! She is finally old enough to leave them alone.

 

[steve tym]

This is pretty common in my area. It's also common to have a check valve on the tank. We remove the check valve from the tank and install one under the pitless adapter.

 

[bdhsfz6]

Had to dig up & replace a broken pitless adapter last year so I put a tee on the new adapter and installed a hydrant:

The tank is located in the barn about 200' away. I took off the check valve at the tank and it works like a champ.