Flail mower first try = terrible cut… SOLVED

[S854]

SUCCESS!!!

Well… kinda… I made all the adjustments mentioned earlier, now most of the tall stuff disappears… still have a few stragglers… good enough for me…

thanks for all the advice… I’d still be chasing my tail with all the available adjustments…m

I also discovered: if you have lost a snowplow foot sometime in the past, a flail mower is absolutely the best way to find it… even the neighbors know I found it… what a racket… I now have my first dings in the flail mower housing… that’s ok… didn’t expect it to stay pristine too long anyway…

 

[Oldtoad]

Sounds about right.
Just mowed with a 60" Befco with new sharp triple blades, a tow behind.
First cut of the year, left some stubble behind, not thrilled but what I expect.

 

[DieselMonk]

I use a 84” rear finish mower and I’ve got a 72” Orsi flail mower. I use the flail mower to cut the edges of my roads and fields.

The correct adjustment of the flail mower, RPM, knives, rotating / driving direction, driving speed etc. is key. It’s like a box blade. If not adjusted correctly it’s not working good.

For the flail mower you can choose between knives and hammers. I’ve got hammers on mine, as I also let 4-5 inch trees, brushes, bushes etc through it. I mow stuff of that’s 2 feet tall down to 3-4 inches like nothing and I don’t get any standing stalks or patches either. But she needs to go full bore 540 PTO RPM and she is liking her fuel. Mowing in reverse is an absolute no go on mine. The tilt front rear (using the adjustable top link) doesn’t matter much, but it does affect the cutting hight. The only way I am having problems like you is when I don’t have 540 RPM on the PTO and or drive too fast.

 

[Chris In Gallupville]

Since you specifically mention flowering alfalfa, I’ll note something about it (and similar plants): as they mature, the stalks/stems lie flat b/c the flowering head is too heavy to stand tall. Your mower is cutting what’s standing but the longer stalk is simply being run over. This is a headache for hay farmers, too, if they don’t get the alfalfa cut when it should be cut. Your mower will do a better job if you cut earlier while everything in the field is standing tall AND if your settings maximize the amount of lift the mower flails apply to the forage. Good luck.

 

[Adlox]

A really interesting and helpful thread, I've learned a lot from this


I've a Kioti CS2610 and use a 4' del morino flail with Y cutters. I've had both for 9 years. Results initially on long or short stuff was great but results deteriorated rapidly as the blades deteriorated - not surprisingly. Our soil is very stony!
My Y blades now are worn smooth and round on the leading edges. The back (trailing) edges are ok. My question is, can I just swap them all around to reverse them so that the leading edge is now "ok" or should I replace all with new?
Thanks

 

[eddieirvine]

brush hog does lots better keep the blades sharp\

 

[Gord Baker]

Don't expect a yard mower cut. Your next attempt with shorter weeds etc will likely be more pleasing.

 

[350c]

brush hog does lots better keep the blades sharp\

I agree, eddieirvine. The act of cutting seems better to me than beating, or flailing. However, I prefer a trail type brush hog: with the 3-point hitch type, all the vibration is transferred to the tractor; with the trail type, the amount of vibration transferred is greatly reduced, causing much less stress on the tractor. My problem is finding a medium to heavy duty trail type rotary cutter for a CUT, something in the 5'-6' size--finish mowers are not designed to cut woody stuff or high weeds. Anyone have any suggestion where I might find a trail-type medium duty or heavy duty rotary cutter suitable for a CUT (specifically JD 2038R)?

 

[wirlybird]

I also had similar issues with my Betstco flail.
It would do a less than desirable job when compared to my John Deere flail.
One thing I found is that the Betstco flail spins "backwards" or against the direction of travel. Opposite of wheel rotation when going forward.
I thought this would be good but since found that, especially with hammers, that it tend to just push the bent over vegetation back down. Was a real issue with the grass getting smushed down by the wheels. It wouldn't cut it.
My John Deere flail turns in the same direction as the wheels and this one does much better.
Ended up selling the Betstco.
Hope you have more success.

 

[Bentrim]

Something that you probably have not noticed. The small Massey's have a low engine speed when the PTO is at 540 RPM. When you open the throttle to wide open the PTO spins at about 740 RPM. Most compacts and sub compacts run the engine almost wide open to get 540 RPM
You can run the mower faster with the Massey and may wind up with a better cut.

 

[saxtonhill]

A really interesting and helpful thread, I've learned a lot from this


I've a Kioti CS2610 and use a 4' del morino flail with Y cutters. I've had both for 9 years. Results initially on long or short stuff was great but results deteriorated rapidly as the blades deteriorated - not surprisingly. Our soil is very stony!
My Y blades now are worn smooth and round on the leading edges. The back (trailing) edges are ok. My question is, can I just swap them all around to reverse them so that the leading edge is now "ok" or should I replace all with new?
Thanks

I have reversed my blades a few times. I believe that is part of the designed use. The opposite side will only be used if cutting in reverse, which I don't bother doing. After a few years use, I don't have many rocks, I reverse the blades and get great results. Fwiw, I have a Caroni 74" with grass blades and a Kubota l4600

 

[JONNY BOYYY]

20 ACRES ISNT MUCH--YOU CAN EASILY REMOVE THE LARGER ROCKS STICKING UP AND THEN GET A BUSH HOG MOWER AND MOW IT AT A MEDIUM HEIGHT SETTING--AFTER A FEW CUTS,YOU WILL HAVE A GOLF COURSE WITH NO WEEDS

 

[troverman]

I mow this capped landfill twice a year, and my mower lays it down. I think this looks quite good. Mowing with a Woodmaxx 78" mower.

 

[richied2003]

Lots of good info here. I have a medium duty 6ft bush hog on my 47hp Branson. It cut’s well but needs constant attention else things get dramatic with rocks or scuffing the ground. Luckily at my cabin it doesn’t matter much but I am tired of scrubbing up the ground. I’m thinking of maybe trading it for a flail mower. I’ve run one before when volunteering at a town owned orchard years ago. I know they are expensive, but can anyone recommend a good one at a reasonable price ($3k’ish). I know there are cheaper Chinese ones but don’t know if worth the risk. Looking for a 6ft cut.

 

[henerythe8th]

A really interesting and helpful thread, I've learned a lot from this


I've a Kioti CS2610 and use a 4' del morino flail with Y cutters. I've had both for 9 years. Results initially on long or short stuff was great but results deteriorated rapidly as the blades deteriorated - not surprisingly. Our soil is very stony!
My Y blades now are worn smooth and round on the leading edges. The back (trailing) edges are ok. My question is, can I just swap them all around to reverse them so that the leading edge is now "ok" or should I replace all with new?
Thanks

Reverse them and wear them out, that's why they're made like that.

 

[troverman]

Lots of good info here. I have a medium duty 6ft bush hog on my 47hp Branson. It cut’s well but needs constant attention else things get dramatic with rocks or scuffing the ground. Luckily at my cabin it doesn’t matter much but I am tired of scrubbing up the ground. I’m thinking of maybe trading it for a flail mower. I’ve run one before when volunteering at a town owned orchard years ago. I know they are expensive, but can anyone recommend a good one at a reasonable price ($3k’ish). I know there are cheaper Chinese ones but don’t know if worth the risk. Looking for a 6ft cut.

Woodmaxx FM-78. Its $3000 on the money. It is designed and tested in Buffalo, NY at the Woodmaxx facility but is made in China. I have the same model and use it commercially; it works great and has been reliable. It's a 74" cut and needs 30-65 PTO HP which your Branson will supply. I'm running it behind my 60HP Kubota now, but I've actually used it behind my other 40HP (32 PTO HP) Kubota and it still worked pretty well, just had to go slow in the thick stuff.

The cheap Chinese ones are junk. The best mowers are probably Alamo or Vrismo; these are $8-10k for the same size. There are some nice Italian models priced in between, but I don't think they are necessarily better than the Woodmaxx. Parts are readily available for the Woodmaxx as well.

 

[richied2003]

Woodmaxx FM-78. Its $3000 on the money. It is designed and tested in Buffalo, NY at the Woodmaxx facility but is made in China. I have the same model and use it commercially; it works great and has been reliable. It's a 74" cut and needs 30-65 PTO HP which your Branson will supply. I'm running it behind my 60HP Kubota now, but I've actually used it behind my other 40HP (32 PTO HP) Kubota and it still worked pretty well, just had to go slow in the thick stuff.

The cheap Chinese ones are junk. The best mowers are probably Alamo or Vrismo; these are $8-10k for the same size. There are some nice Italian models priced in between, but I don't think they are necessarily better than the Woodmaxx. Parts are readily available for the Woodmaxx as well.

Thanks will check it out!

 

[powerscol]

OK,

If the flail mower does not sound like a shop vac vacuum cleaner it is not creating the amount of
pressure gradient/suction to lift the clippings up and over the flail mower rotor and the flail mower
rotor is not spinning at 2,200 RPM+.

Tall, thick, dense brush requires the user to operate at the lowest forward travel speed
at the lowest mower setting with the engine at the 540 RPM rear PTO engine setting.
Tall, thick, dense brush mowing using a small tractor requires the user to operate the
flail mower in an overlapping mowing method to recut the material and catch the
stringers/stragglers.

What is the low range speed on your mule?

Is your flail mower equipped with side slicer or the scoop/spoon knives??

A flail mower operates best with the roller at its highest mounting point (lowest mowing height setting)
which is the top mounting/height adjustment holes in the side weldments of the mower.

The skids should not touch the ground, their only job is to protect the flail mower rotor, knife hangers and knives/hammers.

Are the V belts on your flail mower tightened by hand using a flat snubber pulley?

If you are mowing 20 acres only occasionally you will not control the invasive plants like ragweed, water hemp,
thistle, poison ivy, poison sumac very well and mowing will be harder to do.

If you mow the 20 acres in 4-5 acre blocks every 2 weeks at a low cutting height you can manage the mowing much more easily.

You will be better off using the Massey Ferguson 135 for this mowing if it is in operating condition.

Leon is very correct in his tips. I learned form him years ago when I first got my Maschio Giraffetta 160SE Flail Mower (this is an offsetting ditch bank mower) It does max out my tractor in full offset bank mode. Its best cutting position is offset just outside the tire - cutting like you do hay with a drum mower. Good Grief Leon how far back was that?

Having the side skids not touching the ground is important, or in turns they will chew things up. I run mine set about 1 to 1.5" to get that good vacuum sound. Cut length is about 3" Out west here it is important to leave it long for good growth and shade the roots to reduce water loss.

One thing I do each year is touch up the hammers with a grinder - not knife sharp, but as close to the stock OEM wedge edge I can get. I take out any big gouges, or if major I replace the blade to maintain drum balance. The other thing to watch for is alfalfa/vines wrapping around the knives or drum. If you hear a change in noise/speed or vibration (normal is NO vibration) stop and check and clean as needed.

Last is speed as Leon mentioned. You will learn what works best over time with your set up. Also keep the PTO RPM up as high as possible

Hope this helps

 

[sjmedin]

I have used a flail mower to keep up about 5 acres of grass and found it works best when cutting
grass very short . It will always leaves some behind in tall grass. From your pictures it seems you
are just trying to trim and that would be best to use a rotary cutter. As said before it also depends
on what blades you are using. Our parish uses flail mowers for most highway right of ways because
there is less damage from flying objects and they can scalp the ditches along the roadside.

 

[dieselscout80]

A really interesting and helpful thread, I've learned a lot from this


I've a Kioti CS2610 and use a 4' del morino flail with Y cutters. I've had both for 9 years. Results initially on long or short stuff was great but results deteriorated rapidly as the blades deteriorated - not surprisingly. Our soil is very stony!
My Y blades now are worn smooth and round on the leading edges. The back (trailing) edges are ok. My question is, can I just swap them all around to reverse them so that the leading edge is now "ok" or should I replace all with new?
Thanks

Yes they are reversible.