What spray lube do you like?

[bcp]

Lots of different formulas of "WD40."

https://www.wd40.com/products/

Bruce

 

[mezcalpaloma]

Liquid Wrench or Graphite spray, depending on the application.

I like WD40 for cleaning up rusty stuff and "pushing" water out of wet mechanisms (like vice-grips left out in the rain); but for true "Lubrication": not so much.

In the dusty corners, I recall a reliable source telling me NOT to use WD40 on electrical contacts. It leaves a film that interferes with electrical conduction, thus making the contacts unreliable (I think this is temporary, but annoying nonetheless). Also, until it dries, WD40 can be highly flammable, so do not use it to do anything to the innards of a distributor (POP!! scratch one distributor cap)... first hand experience.

Further, I find that WD40 has a tendency to "dry out" joints, like maybe it dissolves what little lubricant may have been there. So, an oil will need to be applied later, anyway.

My preferred go to for easy lube where dirt wont be a problem is liquid wrench. It is also excellent for freeing rusty stuff. I've salvaged many "rusted up" tools with it. Much like WD40, however, I find that a true "lubricant" (like machine oil or grease) often needs to be applied not long after Liquid Wrench has done its job.

On things like open jackscrews and scissor jacks (think RV stabilizers), where dirt/grit attraction/retention is a problem, I like a graphite spray. It will stain concrete (and probably just about anything else), so use it somewhere you don't care about staining or put down some disposable sheeting under the treatment area.

I'm intrigued by the liquid film mentioned here...never heard of it...must check into that. Might be a good alternative to graphite.

 

[Deleted member 371759]

Liquid Wrench or Graphite spray, depending on the application.

I like WD40 for cleaning up rusty stuff and "pushing" water out of wet mechanisms (like vice-grips left out in the rain); but for true "Lubrication": not so much.

In the dusty corners, I recall a reliable source telling me NOT to use WD40 on electrical contacts. It leaves a film that interferes with electrical conduction, thus making the contacts unreliable (I think this is temporary, but annoying nonetheless). Also, until it dries, WD40 can be highly flammable, so do not use it to do anything to the innards of a distributor (POP!! scratch one distributor cap)... first hand experience.

Further, I find that WD40 has a tendency to "dry out" joints, like maybe it dissolves what little lubricant may have been there. So, an oil will need to be applied later, anyway.

My preferred go to for easy lube where dirt wont be a problem is liquid wrench. It is also excellent for freeing rusty stuff. I've salvaged many "rusted up" tools with it. Much like WD40, however, I find that a true "lubricant" (like machine oil or grease) often needs to be applied not long after Liquid Wrench has done its job.

On things like open jackscrews and scissor jacks (think RV stabilizers), where dirt/grit attraction/retention is a problem, I like a graphite spray. It will stain concrete (and probably just about anything else), so use it somewhere you don't care about staining or put down some disposable sheeting under the treatment area.

I'm intrigued by the liquid film mentioned here...never heard of it...must check into that. Might be a good alternative to graphite.

Hands down the best electronics contact cleaner is DeoxIt. Stuff is amazing. I use the cleaner all the time on pots that are crunchy and cause static, follow it up with the fader lube to avoid damaging the pots coatings. From audio repair to auto repair the stuff is awesome. I keep the D12, fader lube and Gold all on hand.

 

[WinterDeere]

I recall a reliable source telling me NOT to use WD40 on electrical contacts. It leaves a film that interferes with electrical conduction, thus making the contacts unreliable (I think this is temporary, but annoying nonetheless).

Been using this since my dad handed me a can (older style) 40+ years ago, to clean a misbehaving type-O22 Lionel track switch. I probably still have that very can, in addition to several newer, the damn stuff lasts nearly forever.

 

[Bentrim]

Back in the days of White Farm Equipment they had one of the best penetrating oils you could find. It was supposed to contain Moly (still don't know how they got her in the can?). I had tried many different brands but that was the only one that did not dry up if left overnight, it was still wet the next morning. Unfortunately WFE went like a lot of other farm equipment manufacturers of the time and it is gone. Often wish I could have found out who made it for them.

 

[Tractorman46]

Most of the alternative products I have seen mentioned in this post are not available here in France but good old WD40 certainly is. There are alternative lubricating sprays here and they have their place of course and a tube of silicone grease is indispensable especially for pool valves and plastic screw connections but I find WD40 is really multi functionable. For example, getting those stick-on labels off cleaning stains off some kinds of leather and, would you believe it, spray it on a wasp sting immediately and it stops it stinging.
I must get out more, sorry chaps.

 

[BrierPatch]

WD-40 did work really well at getting the pine sap out of my living room carpet one Christmas when I was taking out our real tree and lost my balance and planted it in the middle of the living room. Then just soap and water to clean up the WD-40 spot.

 

[SmallChange]

WD40 can be highly flammable, so do not use it to do anything to the innards of a distributor (POP!! scratch one distributor cap)

I used it frequently on one old car and never had anything happen.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

I used it frequently on one old car and never had anything happen.

Was the coil still functional?

 

[Mike1955]

Kroil?

I don’t think that is the correct spelling. But it’s in a orange can and it has some pretty good properties as far as soaking breaking stuck pieces apart. I have witnessed it