Are diesel conditioners needed for new

[Mark.georgetown]

Are any diesel fuel conditioners needed or would be good to use on Subcompact tractors, about 21 hp. Mines new LS122 and mostly sits. It works a few hours a week? Tks

 

[4570Man]

You don’t need anything extra.

 

[mrmikey]

You'll get a ton of different answers for sure....who's right.....darned if I know LOL. I also use fuel stabilizer in my gas engines, another point for argument.
I've got a 2011, 3160 3 cyl. Iseki that I use for hauling my yard trailer and plowing in the winter. I've always used Hawes fuel treatment. My theory is it's supposed to add lubricity, which is lacking in new fuel, and prevent fuel gelling which I don't want. I've never had a gel problem in the 5 or so years I've had it as for lubing...who knows and for a few bucks I'll keep using it as it can't hurt.

 

[hodge]

I would. It's not about how new the tractor/technology is, it's the fuel. Condensation naturally forms in fuel tanks, and any water in the fuel can lead to bacteria forming. When that bacteria coagulates instead of passing through, it will eventually affect the flow of fuel through the pick up, or the system. I treat our fuel tanks with a maintenance biocide.

 

[mrmikey]

I treat our fuel tanks with a maintenance biocide.

Something I wish I could get around here (Nova Scotia), nothing available. Guess the goobermint figures we're going to drink it LOL.

 

[RjCorazza]

I treat my fuel for lubricity in the warmer months and for cold temps switch to an anti gel additive. I use Power Service silver and white respectively.
If you are new to diesel, good fuel handling practices are more important than additives imho. Keep the tank full when possible, ALWAYS filter what goes into the machinery, store fuel under cover, and if in a cold climate ensure that your winter fuel is either treated / mixed at the pump, or treat it yourself.

 

[mjonesnh]

I use optilube xpd additive year round in my new holland. Can't say that it has kept me from having having issue with it or not. Do know that it is one of the top rated additives for adding lubricity to the diesel and I have been moving snow in winter in mid teens temps with no gelling. I guess peace of mind that it gives me helps with my decision to use it.

 

[5030]

Only thing I use in my diesel fuel is a biocide, in my case Bio-Kleen. If whatever additive you use, if there isn't a MSDS label attached to the bottle, it's not in it. It has to have an MSDS cautionary label to be a biocide, plain and simple. I went down the algae road a while ago and it WAS NOT A CHEAP date either. Cost me a couple grand in replacement parts and I did the grunt work myself.

 

[Hay Dude]

I feel like the answer is ”no” in a new engine, but as engines age and fuel systems get progressively dirtier, the answer changes to yes.
Water & condensation are scary issues. I would like to see every diesel with a water separator and 2 fuel filters.
With each tank, more water accumulates.

Always buy fuel from a place that sells a LOT of fuel.

 

[Yander]

I used this "clear diesel" when we filled our tank in the barn last fall. It will last us another year or two, no more than we use. I use Lucas diesel anti-gel in the winter. So far that is all I've done. I do always use an anti-gel in the winter and have not had any issues for several years of winter use. I think I may get some biocide too.

 

[newbury]

Present day Ultra-Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD) has 3 common problems
1. Low lubricity
2. Gelling at low temps
3. Absorbs moisture from the air

Lubricity was lost when the sulfur content was reduced, some fuel pumps are more sensitive than others. The Bosch on VW's tended to scar and self destruct. If your pump needs more lubrication, use an additive.
Gelling is the nature of diesel at low temp. Easy solution is to not use when its cold out Easily done in Mississippi, not as easy in Vermont. Common additive was an addition of kerosene, basically a "lighter weight" diesel.
Absorbing moisture from the air can cause microbial contamination (algae). This can be minimized by keeping your tanks full, no room for "wet air". Addition of a biocide is also a remedy.
A decent additive will attack all 3 problems.

 

[Deleted member 371759]

Present day Ultra-Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD) has 3 common problems
1. Low lubricity
2. Gelling at low temps
3. Absorbs moisture from the air

Lubricity was lost when the sulfur content was reduced, some fuel pumps are more sensitive than others. The Bosch on VW's tended to scar and self destruct. If your pump needs more lubrication, use an additive.
Gelling is the nature of diesel at low temp. Easy solution is to not use when its cold out Easily done in Mississippi, not as easy in Vermont. Common additive was an addition of kerosene, basically a "lighter weight" diesel.
Absorbing moisture from the air can cause microbial contamination (algae). This can be minimized by keeping your tanks full, no room for "wet air". Addition of a biocide is also a remedy.
A decent additive will attack all 3 problems.

Good post reply newbury. I would like to add that raising cetane cant hurt either. One thing to be careful with is emulsifiers they work well and sometimes too well not allowing your water seperators to actually do their job. I use FPPF but that is like Coke or Pepsi. The previous poster said just about all that needs to be said. Rock on

 

[Williy]

The only thing that I would recomend is when the weather starts
to get cold you will need an aditive to keep the diesel from jelling.

willy

 

[nbking]

I've used Amsoil's, diesel all in one, in my tractor, rtv, and truck since new. They claim outstanding detergency, improved lubricity, better cold flow, and higher octane.

 

[jyoutz]

Something I wish I could get around here (Nova Scotia), nothing available. Guess the goobermint figures we're going to drink it LOL.

Amazon delivers

 

[mrmikey]

They do, for the price of a second mortgage:

 

[Robin Veerman]

I've used Amsoil's, diesel all in one, outstanding detergency, improved lubricity, better cold flow, and higher octane.
Cetane I like it too…

 

[hube2]

I use all of the products offered by PowerService. I even have a bottle of 911 sitting on a self that I hope I will never need. Like someone else said, what brand you use is like asking coke or pepsi. I have no idea if I really need them or not. On the other hand, I don't want to find out. After reading about fuel nightmares on this forum it just give me a little peace of mind. It's like anything else preventive, you don't know if you need it until you find out that you needed it and by then it's too late.

 

[dodge man]

You don’t need it. Modern engines don’t need an additive. The big question is how fast are you burning you fuel. If you are using it up in 3 or 4 months, you’re probably ok. If it sits longer you might add a biocide just in case, it keeps growth from happening. I also agree with something that helps with gelling if it gets cold where you live.

 

[Robin Veerman]

Huh? You don’t need it, but…..oh, and if…..
Just on the topic of cetane it’s lucky to find any diesel over 44. Diesel engines like cetane to be around 55.
From the net….
The scale for measuring cetane ranges from 0 to 100, and the higher the number, the better. Modern highway diesel engines tend to require fuel with a cetane number ranging from 45 to 55. Typically, regular no. 2 diesel has a cetane number of 40 to 42, while Cenex Premium Diesel has a cetane number of 47 to 52.