What is enough HP?

[Atypical_decorum]

Judging by my wildly successful previous post, I should get some good answers here.

I found a pretty stellar 80hp tractor with more displacement then the 100hp tractors I've been looking at. But, does size matter?

I may as well say what I'm doing exactly with the tractor. A big function of the tractor is pulling a 8 to 10ft hydraulic grader blade. I'll be on flat and hillside ground making trails for my camp goers.

With this same blade I'll be flatening mountains of dirt and rock. The FEL will be moving the same.

I have a Woods 1080 BH which will be used for putting in utilities (water/electric/air), the koi pond and other stuff.

I'll also be pulling felled trees from my work area, up/down/across hills.

I'll be pulling the biggest finish mower I can.

I'll be using a 24" auger bit.

And finally, as far as I can plan for, I'll be deep tilling about 1 acre routinely. I'm sure there will be more, but that's where I'm at for now.

Would 260cu in 80hp tractor cut it or is that magical 3 digit hp number the grail?

Can't get heavy equipment. This has to be an all in one.

 

[Chewwy]

You will undoubtably get lots of opinions.

There are already several threads on this site discussing blade size/weight relative to tractor ratings for both scrape blades and box blades.

 

[sea2summit]

Weight matters more than HP if all you're doing is dragging a blade. HP is more important when you need the PTO to do something like run a mower/blower/tiller type task. An 80 HP tractor should pull some of the largest finish mowers they make without a problem, generally finish mowers take less HP than disc mowers for hay or brush hogs.

 

[Torvy]

I'd start by looking at the requirements of the specific implements you intend to use.
Based on what you mentioned, weight is probably a more important factor than HP. Of course, you will need sufficient HP to move the weight.

A quick look and, for example, the Rhino 10' blade weighs 1880 lbs. They don't list a minimum HP, but they do mention a maximum (120, iirc).

A 17' Bush Hog brand finish mower puts the HP range at 35-80 (that would be PTO HP).

These are just some for-example bits of info. Really need to look at your actual.

My general opinion of recommendations here is that most people love to spend other's money. You probably don't need nearly as big as you think, but you are going to need a stout tractor.

 

[Atypical_decorum]

You will undoubtably get lots of opinions.

There are already several threads on this site discussing blade size/weight relative to tractor ratings for both scrape blades and box blades.

Do you have a link?

 

[oldnslo]

Like Sea2 states: For ground engagement you need a minimum of 100 lbs per HP. 120 - 130 lbs per HP is even better to tie the power to the ground. If mounting the BH I would also want a heavier framed tractor. PTO is where HP can be required.

 

[Atypical_decorum]

I'd start by looking at the requirements of the specific implements you intend to use.
Based on what you mentioned, weight is probably a more important factor than HP. Of course, you will need sufficient HP to move the weight.

A quick look and, for example, the Rhino 10' blade weighs 1880 lbs. They don't list a minimum HP, but they do mention a maximum (120, iirc).

A 17' Bush Hog brand finish mower puts the HP range at 35-80 (that would be PTO HP).

These are just some for-example bits of info. Really need to look at your actual.

My general opinion of recommendations here is that most people love to spend other's money. You probably don't need nearly as big as you think, but you are going to need a stout tractor.

I have read the reqs for ear item, but I'm using them in non standard ways. Hence the post. The bare minimum for my of my stuff is 50hp. But 50HP will just make the impliments move against smooth/flat ground. I'm doing significantly more work with them.

I'm ballasting the tires and probably getting a wider set to get more ballast/traction too.

 

[rockinbbar]

I use both a 75hp and a 120hp tractor.

HP matters most when running PTO attachments that can get bogged down...like batwing cutters through thick growth.

Have found that my 75 will do just about everything I need it to do in as far as harrowing with a 12' ridged harrow, a 10' offset disk, or chores like that.

Weight and 4x4 count when doing heavy pulling type work. Not found much my 75hp won't handle.

You'd probably be fine with the 80hp as long as it's heavy-ish and has 4x4.

 

[MattB4]

Judging by my wildly successful previous post, I should get some good answers here.

I found a pretty stellar 80hp tractor with more displacement then the 100hp tractors I've been looking at. But, does size matter?

I may as well say what I'm doing exactly with the tractor. A big function of the tractor is pulling a 8 to 10ft hydraulic grader blade. I'll be on flat and hillside ground making trails for my camp goers.

With this same blade I'll be flatening mountains of dirt and rock. The FEL will be moving the same.

I have a Woods 1080 BH which will be used for putting in utilities (water/electric/air), the koi pond and other stuff.

I'll also be pulling felled trees from my work area, up/down/across hills.

...

Tractors are not really designed for land clearing duties. Maintaining already established trails certainly. For land clearing and shaping duties go with a CTL or dozer.

 

[Chewwy]

Do you have a link?

blade size vs tractor hp site:www.tractorbynet.com

You’ll find it’s a complicated balancing act. Blade width, blade weight, tractor weight, tractor hp, tires, $$s, etc.

 

[Atypical_decorum]

Tractors are not really designed for land clearing duties. Maintaining already established trails certainly. For land clearing and shaping duties go with a CTL or dozer.

Don't have the funds for that.

 

[MattB4]

Don't have the funds for that.

Look around and see if a neighbor or friend of a friend has some heavy equipment that would do the initial land shaping.

 

[Chewwy]

Don't have the funds for that.

A dozer can do in a day what would take a tractor weeks to do.

A 15,000 lb dozer rents for about $700/day plus fuel around here from an equipment rental company. There is also a charge for delivery and pickup.

You could probably beat this with a local operator if there is one nearby.

Just an option to consider.

 

[Atypical_decorum]

Look around and see if a neighbor or friend of a friend has some heavy equipment that would do the initial land shaping.

Cost prohibitive. There's many steps to this and they'd need to come out very frequently. At $200 an hour, several weeks worth with 20 back and for trips does not make financial sense. Again, no heavy equipment. Thank you for the thought.

 

[Atypical_decorum]

A dozer can do in a day what would take a tractor weeks to do.

A 15,000 lb dozer rents for about $700/day plus fuel around here from an equipment rental company. There is also a charge for delivery and pickup.

You could probably beat this with a local operator if there is one nearby.

Just an option to consider.

Local guy charges $200 an hour. There's about 15 to 20 sections to do that are not concurrent and he has a 4hr minimum. I'd be into him for $15k or more by the end of next year.

 

[stumblinhorse]

I have read the reqs for ear item, but I'm using them in non standard ways. Hence the post. The bare minimum for my of my stuff is 50hp. But 50HP will just make the impliments move against smooth/flat ground. I'm doing significantly more work with them.

I'm ballasting the tires and probably getting a wider set to get more ballast/traction too.

What are you doing non standard? I survived on 65 acres mowing 40 of them with a 31 HP HST For quite a while. Only reason I stepped up to 75hp was a cab and a 90” snow blower. My 75c is a large frame tractor with a small engine. It has plenty of power for anything needing to be done for a normal operation. I live at 8000’ so my hp numbers are lower than most. I would agree if you are haying 2000 acres into rounds more Hp is required. But for all your implements 75hp would be more than enough. And 50-60 is probably enough in a large frame tractor.

 

[IndyIan]

Judging by my wildly successful previous post, I should get some good answers here.

I found a pretty stellar 80hp tractor with more displacement then the 100hp tractors I've been looking at. But, does size matter?

I may as well say what I'm doing exactly with the tractor. A big function of the tractor is pulling a 8 to 10ft hydraulic grader blade. I'll be on flat and hillside ground making trails for my camp goers.

With this same blade I'll be flatening mountains of dirt and rock. The FEL will be moving the same.

I have a Woods 1080 BH which will be used for putting in utilities (water/electric/air), the koi pond and other stuff.

I'll also be pulling felled trees from my work area, up/down/across hills.

I'll be pulling the biggest finish mower I can.

I'll be using a 24" auger bit.

And finally, as far as I can plan for, I'll be deep tilling about 1 acre routinely. I'm sure there will be more, but that's where I'm at for now.

Would 260cu in 80hp tractor cut it or is that magical 3 digit hp number the grail?

Can't get heavy equipment. This has to be an all in one.

I would think either tractor has the hp to do what you want, which is easier to use for grader work? That's what I would get.

 

[sd455dan]

Local guy charges $200 an hour. There's about 15 to 20 sections to do that are not concurrent and he has a 4hr minimum. I'd be into him for $15k or more by the end of next year.

Whoops,
misread what the OP posted already has a good Woods backhoe.

Agree with others and for sure would want an FEL and MFWD other than that, many times bigger and more industrial ends up being less money than a newer SCUT or small utility tractor.

Mountains of dirt and rock can mean different things to different people.
If it means "large" rocks that really changes things.

 

[kthompson]

The job I think that will need both hp and weight is the box blade. I had a JD (5525)somewhere in the 90s hp with four wheel drive. A real work horse. I had a 10 foot pull type box blade. Hardest work it had. Not in roots nor rocks but good heavy dirt. Also it was not a true heavy duty, deep box blade, will say about a middle grade blade. A 10 foot blade slicing dirt while filling a box blade has a heavy load to tote. Pulling my 10 to 12 foot disk not near the load. It could have handle more disk but, it would have been a slower speed than I would have been pleased with when getting a smooth finish. My land is level grade so grade no issue.

As to pulling logs, my limited experience is you get the front end in the air, they are easier to pull than many think.

 

[dieselscout80]

Judging by my wildly successful previous post, I should get some good answers here.

I found a pretty stellar 80hp tractor with more displacement then the 100hp tractors I've been looking at. But, does size matter?

I may as well say what I'm doing exactly with the tractor. A big function of the tractor is pulling a 8 to 10ft hydraulic grader blade. I'll be on flat and hillside ground making trails for my camp goers.

With this same blade I'll be flatening mountains of dirt and rock. The FEL will be moving the same.

I have a Woods 1080 BH which will be used for putting in utilities (water/electric/air), the koi pond and other stuff.

I'll also be pulling felled trees from my work area, up/down/across hills.

I'll be pulling the biggest finish mower I can.

I'll be using a 24" auger bit.

And finally, as far as I can plan for, I'll be deep tilling about 1 acre routinely. I'm sure there will be more, but that's where I'm at for now.

Would 260cu in 80hp tractor cut it or is that magical 3 digit hp number the grail?

Can't get heavy equipment. This has to be an all in one.

How many acres are you talking about?