Kubota B3350 wont start.

[KubotaGuy810]

My dad started his 2018 Kubota B3350 and drove it out of the barn, it was starting to run rough, then the low oil pressure alarm came on. Then the tractor died. It wont start up now. It'll crank and periodically fire, but wont start. I changed the fuel filter, checked as many lines as I could. the tractor only has 200 hours on it. We did clean alot of mouse nests out from right behind and on top of the gas tank under the hood. Fuel pump is working. I unhooked the battery to try and reset the light, but as soon has he turns the key the alarm and dummy light come on. Please help!

 

[JWR]

Well of course you need to check the oil level and see if you have the right amount of engine oil. With 200 hrs that is still a near-new tractor. Were there any incidents of things broken or prior problems? I'd certainly clean off the engine, injector high pressure pump, etc. with compressed air while looking for rodent damage. My first (wild) guess is a fuel line chewed into, something plugging your air intake, or a fuel blockage. I'd start by pulling the air cleaner and blowing that out clean. Then tracing the fuel flow to see if you have good flow at the inlet to the injection pump...just pull that line and see if the lift pump is giving you fuel spurts and plenty of fuel to the injection pump inlet. The "low oil pressure alarm" puzzles me... let us know what you find.

By the way, always good to know where you are to kind of frame the circumstance. Where are the tractor and your Dad located?

 

[5030]

Mice love to chew on Kubota wiring, something about the digestible insulation....lol I judiciously apply stinky dryer sheets in and around mine plus I have a couple cats in the barn. I may get cat paw prints on the hoods, but they still start and run, no issue. I surmise you have a wiring issue at least. Cats love the mice that love the Kubota wiring insulation. it's survival of the fittest and the cats are at the top of the food chain in my barn.

Putting away ANY tractor and forgetting about it will always end with grief, especially where there are rodents.

 

[KubotaGuy810]

I am in central missouri. Near jefferson city. I have also checked air intake, turbo inlet, fuel pump and lines up to injectors. I cracked the line and got fuel pulsing while cranking. We also cleaned all mice nests out as well. I haven't found any chewed wires. Yet.

 

[thclimer]

If its "periodically firing off" this sounds like a fuel problem to me. Typically when I read about a diesel tractor not starting its one of the following:

Fuel not getting to the cylinders.
You said you cracked a line and can see the fuel pulsing. Was that right at an injector?

Does the BX3350 self prime?

What procedure does your manual list for bleeding the fuel after replacing the fuel filter?

Weak battery.
Your engine needs to turn over fast enough to fire off the diesel.

Safety interlock.
Tractor in gear, PTO engaged, seat switch...etc. These safeties generally keep the fuel solenoid from being energized, but you said it periodically fires so this seems to be unlikely.

 

[SDT]

My dad started his 2018 Kubota B3350 and drove it out of the barn, it was starting to run rough, then the low oil pressure alarm came on. Then the tractor died. It wont start up now. It'll crank and periodically fire, but wont start. I changed the fuel filter, checked as many lines as I could. the tractor only has 200 hours on it. We did clean alot of mouse nests out from right behind and on top of the gas tank under the hood. Fuel pump is working. I unhooked the battery to try and reset the light, but as soon has he turns the key the alarm and dummy light come on. Please help!

What others said.

Also, they like lots of glow plug time.

Remember that cranking motors are intermittent duty, not intended for extending cranking periods without adequate cool-down time.

What lamp are you trying to reset? Has it regened lately? Is the parked regen lamp on. Thoroughly read and then re-read the regeneration materials in the Operator's Manual and follow precisely. Things tend to work as intended when operators do so but they are not tolerant of failure to follow regen instructions.

 

[5030]

Lets include stale fuel or microbial algae growing in the fuel tank and plugging the works up as well. Kind of like E-Gas. You let it sit unused for a time, it turns to garbage and then it turns the injection system to garbage as well. I know, been down that road before and last time it cost me over a grand in new parts and I did all the wrenching myself. I don't know how many carbs and TBI units I've cooked in my heated ultrasonic cleaner with Berryman's Chem Tool, removing gunked up from stale E-gas and algae (ULSD) fuel going bad. Just did a set of Mikuni carbs for one of the guys at the dealership for a 4 cylinder Honda he let sit and were gunked up bad. Of course the answer is use a fuel additive like Marine Stabil in e-gas or a biocide like Power Service Bio-Kleen in standing diesel. Idle tractors sitting around not running with no biocide in the tanks are begging for algae to grow and the new ULSD (low sulfur diesel) is prime for growing algae because refiners now blend in a percentage of bio-diesel in every batch and bio-diesel is notorious for growing algae.

I not only dose my 500 gallon bulk tank with Bio-Kleen, I add an additional dose to my tractors as well. Keep in mind that if there is no MSDS label on a supposed additive, It's not a biocide. A true biocide has to have the required MSDS labelling, that is a government mandate and has been all along.

I do use Powerservice white label diesel additive in the summer and silver label in the winter as well. Both increase the Cetane rating, add lubricity to the fuel, which in turn lubricates the injection pump that ULSD don't provide and keeps the fuel from gelling in cold temperatures, something we have up here in the winter regularly. All my Kubota's are mechanically injected pre 4 engines. I'd never even consider a post 4 engine with a SCR unit or in my case a DEF injection system.

 

[5030]

Things tend to work as intended when operators do so but they are not tolerant of failure to follow regen instructions.

Absolutely 100% correct. I deliver new tractors for my Kubota dealer and fiddle in the shop part time and the ONE thing I do when I deliver a new unit is I make the customer sign for their manuals which I give them on delivery and I always tell them to read and follow the instructions contained therein about how the emissions system works and what to do when it's regen time.

Interestingly, over 95% of the tractors that wind up in the shop are 'come back's' because the owner's didn't bother to follow the regen instructions or were just too lazy to follow them.

There is a specific procedure to follow. I didn't design any of the systems, in fact I don't care for any of it or them but if you don't adhere to the procedures spelled out in the owners manual, chances are the engine will fail and will require dealer intervention.

We had a large Kubota come in where the owner took it on himself to ignore the regen interval and push the over ride button repeatedly and the engine got so loaded up with soot that wasn't burned off by the SCR unit (it was a DEF tractor) that the intake was destroyed and even though it was new and low hours, Kubota denied any warranty claim due to owner negligence. I didn't see the bill nor the owner either but I'm sure a new head, new SCR unit and new intake wasn't a cheap date.

I'm sure he was pizzed but it was his own fault. READ THE MANUAL AND ADHERE TO THE PROCEDURES IN IT. real simple and a helluva lot cheaper in the long run....for you as the owner, end user.

 

[KubotaGuy810]

Regen is done regularly( my dad always follows owners manual) the owners manual says to bleed air, Start the tractor and let it run 30 seconds lol. It had an electric prime built in for fuel. I cracked the line open right at the injectors. As far as the low oil pressure light... if the engine was bogging and had very low rpms, that might cause the light to come on right?

 

[Jimmy Joe]

Regen is done regularly( my dad always follows owners manual) the owners manual says to bleed air, Start the tractor and let it run 30 seconds lol. It had an electric prime built in for fuel. I cracked the line open right at the injectors. As far as the low oil pressure light... if the engine was bogging and had very low rpms, that might cause the light to come on right?

With the mice nests and all not sure what could be going on for sure but my brother bought a new 3350 when they first came out was nothing but problems. He had less than 100 hours on it and the last time the dealer took it back for not starting he said he needed a new engine.

Kubota would replace it and give him a 7 year warranty on it the dealer recommended he would give him a new non emissioned 2650 instead thats what he did. The 3350 has been a problematic tractor there were upgrades and I think Kubota put a lifetime warranty on the emissions on that model not for sure though.

 

[SDT]

Absolutely 100% correct. I deliver new tractors for my Kubota dealer and fiddle in the shop part time and the ONE thing I do when I deliver a new unit is I make the customer sign for their manuals which I give them on delivery and I always tell them to read and follow the instructions contained therein about how the emissions system works and what to do when it's regen time.

Interestingly, over 95% of the tractors that wind up in the shop are 'come back's' because the owner's didn't bother to follow the regen instructions or were just too lazy to follow them.

There is a specific procedure to follow. I didn't design any of the systems, in fact I don't care for any of it or them but if you don't adhere to the procedures spelled out in the owners manual, chances are the engine will fail and will require dealer intervention.

We had a large Kubota come in where the owner took it on himself to ignore the regen interval and push the over ride button repeatedly and the engine got so loaded up with soot that wasn't burned off by the SCR unit (it was a DEF tractor) that the intake was destroyed and even though it was new and low hours, Kubota denied any warranty claim due to owner negligence. I didn't see the bill nor the owner either but I'm sure a new head, new SCR unit and new intake wasn't a cheap date.

I'm sure he was pizzed but it was his own fault. READ THE MANUAL AND ADHERE TO THE PROCEDURES IN IT. real simple and a helluva lot cheaper in the long run....for you as the owner, end user.

Complete agreement.

I have 3 Kubotas with DPFs, though none requiring DEF (will go to my grave without any DEF equipment). Though annoying when the regen lamp comes on when finished with my work and backing into the barn, the electronically injected M9960 and L6060 are somewhat forgiving, and have been seamless regarding regeneration, but probably would not be if I ignored the regen instructions frequently enough. I have learned to hit the inhibit button when 15 minutes or so from completing a task so as to avoid regens when finished and heading for the barn. Less of an issue with the L6060, which has a bar graph display of DPF condition (which I monitor) than the M9960, which does not.

The mechanically injected, reformer equipped B3350 is another animal. It is less forgiving but does function as intended so long as all is well with the emissions system (quite another issue), and one follows the instructions in the Operator's Manual precisely. Few do. The B3350 is less forgiving of interupped regeneration cycles than are the electronically injected machines. DO NOT interrupt regeneration operations on a B3350. You might get away with it once, or even twice, but repeated interruptions will prove costly. Annoying, but manageable for the knowledgeable.

That said, all of this nonsense is the result of ignorant, cube-dwelling bureaucrats in DC who have probably never seen a tractor, let alone operated one. Worse, such incomprehensively costly nonsense is of no measureable value, though it does make certain groups of ignorant folks FEEL good about themselves.

Down from my soapbox now and finished with rant.

 

[SDT]

With the mice nests and all not sure what could be going on for sure but my brother bought a new 3350 when they first came out was nothing but problems. He had less than 100 hours on it and the last time the dealer took it back for not starting he said he needed a new engine.

Kubota would replace it and give him a 7 year warranty on it the dealer recommended he would give him a new non emissioned 2650 instead thats what he did. The 3350 has been a problematic tractor there were upgrades and I think Kubota put a lifetime warranty on the emissions on that model not for sure though.

Yes, Kubota did finally step-up and implement a so-called "lifetime emissions warranty" for the B3350 and other Kubota equipment using the same reformer-equipped engine as the B3350. This "warranty" is company policy and has not been publically divulged.

The "warranty" is lifetime (I believe until 2099) and is transferrable to subsequent owners. Kudos to Kobota, if a bit late. This "warranty" covers a malfunctioning reformer and any other emissions equipment damaged by a malfunctioning reformer, e.g., DPF, but DOES NOT cover operator error. Kubota (not just Kubota) regional service representatives are trained to detect operator error and deny claims when operator error is evident. Accordingly, B3350 owners should READ, READ, AND RE-READ the emissions materials in the Operator's Manual, keep records, and pay attention to what is said to dealer service personnel when seeking service.

Though an entirely different issue, I would strongly advise having a witness, perhaps with audio recording equipment, present when dealing with any dealer, Kubota or otherwise, regarding warranty service issues. There are dealers who charge unsuspecting owners for work that was paid by the manufacturer's warranty, after telling the owner that such claim(s) was/were denied.

I had decided to replace my 2018 B3350, which was problematic upon delivery, but has been seamless since the reformer, DPF, etc., was replaced with about 30 hours on the clock, with a similar JD model but decided to keep it after Kubota implemented the "lifetime" policy. Where else does one get a "lifetime emissions warranty?"

 

[KubotaGuy810]

Good to know. Also oil level is full and looks good. Could it be the fuel shut off solenoid?

 

[MTGreen]

Mice love to chew on Kubota wiring, something about the digestible insulation....lol I judiciously apply stinky dryer sheets in and around mine plus I have a couple cats in the barn. I may get cat paw prints on the hoods, but they still start and run, no issue. I surmise you have a wiring issue at least. Cats love the mice that love the Kubota wiring insulation. it's survival of the fittest and the cats are at the top of the food chain in my barn.

Putting away ANY tractor and forgetting about it will always end with grief, especially where there are rodents.

I remember reading that the wire insulation is made with a soy product which rodents are of course attracted to

 

[thclimer]

Good to know. Also oil level is full and looks good. Could it be the fuel shut off solenoid?

If you were able to get fuel flow to an injector then the solenoid was opening. If you still suspect it, crack a fuel line to an injector to see if you have fuel coming out when cranking.

 

[KubotaGuy810]

What about not enough fuel

 

[5030]

The dealer I work for part time has 3 of the reformer engined tractors sitting out back he won't sell and I believe Kubota basically ate them. The reformer based engines have a poor track record anyway, why Kubota quit making them. You cannot magically make a non emissions compliant engine, emissions compliant by adding the reformer device. Kubota found that out.

I was worried that the used F series mower I'm getting in the spring had a 'reformer' engine and the boss (Owner) said no. In fact he has a F series front mount mower sitting with the 3350's out back, he won't sell that either and Dennis who is the lead mechanic told me the only way to get any reformer engine to last, was to run the hell out of it constantly. He said they need to run hard and hot to last at all. Not the first failure with Kubota. Both my M9's have very weak PTO clutch brakes. The brakes are single wet discs and won't last if freewheeled. I run an over running coupler on them if the implement don't have one built in. The main issue is the fact that to replace the PTO brake, you have to split the tractor to access it. You can remove the back cover where the PTO shaft come through at and see it, but you cannot reach it unless you have tiny hands, very tiny hands and super long arms. Neither my flat back shredder nor my bat wing have over running couplers on them which necessitates the over running coupler and Kubota is fully aware of the issue but has never rectified it. Another issue is the hydraulic fluid lower return manifold. The end has a rubber connector that leaks and there is a recall bulletin on that but if it's not leaking at the joint, Kubota won't replace it and neither of mine leak so far. If they start, I'll get the parts and replace it myself and Kubota can pay for it. Flat rate on it is 1.5 hours and I'm sure my boss (owner/dealer) will charge Kubota the flat rate and shoot me a check for that as well. Nice being an employee. Finally, Kubota insists on running ball bearings in the front wheel assist stub axles where they should be tapered rollers but you can refit them with rollers and a bit of machining. Rollers have no place in a front wheel assist axle in the first place because of the limited contact between the bearing balls and the outer race and all Kubota's are like that and it's a piss poor design. I make sure my outboards are full of 85-140 GL4-5 gear oil all the time, not UDT or SUDT like is called out in the manual. So far I have not had an issue, so far.

 

[5030]

I remember reading that the wire insulation is made with a soy product which rodents are of course attracted to

Why I use stinky scented dryer sheets and have a couple feral mouser cats in the barn that I keep hungry.

 

[SDT]

The dealer I work for part time has 3 of the reformer engined tractors sitting out back he won't sell and I believe Kubota basically ate them. The reformer based engines have a poor track record anyway, why Kubota quit making them. You cannot magically make a non emissions compliant engine, emissions compliant by adding the reformer device. Kubota found that out.

I was worried that the used F series mower I'm getting in the spring had a 'reformer' engine and the boss (Owner) said no. In fact he has a F series front mount mower sitting with the 3350's out back, he won't sell that either and Dennis who is the lead mechanic told me the only way to get any reformer engine to last, was to run the hell out of it constantly. He said they need to run hard and hot to last at all. Not the first failure with Kubota. Both my M9's have very weak PTO clutch brakes. The brakes are single wet discs and won't last if freewheeled. I run an over running coupler on them if the implement don't have one built in. The main issue is the fact that to replace the PTO brake, you have to split the tractor to access it. You can remove the back cover where the PTO shaft come through at and see it, but you cannot reach it unless you have tiny hands, very tiny hands and super long arms. Neither my flat back shredder nor my bat wing have over running couplers on them which necessitates the over running coupler and Kubota is fully aware of the issue but has never rectified it. Another issue is the hydraulic fluid lower return manifold. The end has a rubber connector that leaks and there is a recall bulletin on that but if it's not leaking at the joint, Kubota won't replace it and neither of mine leak so far. If they start, I'll get the parts and replace it myself and Kubota can pay for it. Flat rate on it is 1.5 hours and I'm sure my boss (owner/dealer) will charge Kubota the flat rate and shoot me a check for that as well. Nice being an employee. Finally, Kubota insists on running ball bearings in the front wheel assist stub axles where they should be tapered rollers but you can refit them with rollers and a bit of machining. Rollers have no place in a front wheel assist axle in the first place because of the limited contact between the bearing balls and the outer race and all Kubota's are like that and it's a piss poor design. I make sure my outboards are full of 85-140 GL4-5 gear oil all the time, not UDT or SUDT like is called out in the manual. So far I have not had an issue, so far.

Actually, Kubota did addrerss the weak PTO brake issue with the M series tractors. A running change was during the production of the M9960 wherein a redesigned, much more robust PTO brake assembly was introduced. Accordingly the latest M9960 tractors have the more robust brake as do M5 series tractors. The assembly itself is quite expensive and, of course, the tractor must be split to install it. No, Kubota has not recalled tractors produced with the earlier, inadequate brake and will not do so, nor will they assist with replacement of failed such brakes.

 

[thclimer]

What about not enough fuel

Each stroke doesn't use that much fuel. If you are seeing fuel at the injector when the line is cracked I'd think it would at least run rough.

Maybe others can advise how much you should see coming out.