Tractor decision

   / Tractor decision #81  
No treadle, 2 pedals like mostly everyone else.

They built the 3 and 4 cylinder diesels for Cummins for many years, now they are putting them in the tractors. Old school, proven engines, coupled with Bosch mechanical pump thats in million other small diesels. No electronics, you can take the DEF out and engine will not know its missing.

TYM just started building tractors for Yanmar...
Yep, no stupid seat sensors, no limp modes, they will just run.
 
   / Tractor decision #82  
There is a guy right now, on here, in main land New York, selling one heck of a MF1760M cab, loader, for $37.5k.
 
   / Tractor decision #83  
Rural folks use their tractors a lot. Sometimes it is just a simple lift and carry chore. A few times now it has helped save us from a disaster.
If my wife and I were to sit down and write one page listing all the things we have appreciated most about our tractors through the years, I doubt the purchase price would even be mentioned.

rScotty
 
   / Tractor decision #84  
Me personally, and this is 100% just opinion/preference, I preferred the Kioti to the TYM in just minor small things; seat, overall look of quality (hard to describe what I mean by that, maybe more modern or more thought out?), and the price was about the same.
The first TYM dealer I visited carried both Kioti and TYM. I has 100% the opposite take looking at them side by side. TYM machine felt more solid. I didn't get a cab, but the cab was much nicer than rhe Kioti cab (roomier). More standard features for the money too.

I have the T574 and it has been nice and comfortable. I'm 6'1" ~260. The newest ones also come with work lights and Bluetooth speaker (I didn't even realize I would get those.) Lights are nice. I've used the speaker, but not a feature that would change my opinion.

That being said, the Kioti is not a bad machine. If your dealer is better, that might change things.
 
   / Tractor decision #85  
Now, a smaller class CK2610 vs TYM 2515; I went in thinking I wanted the TYM; I also looked at the RK25/T25. From online, I really expected the 2515 to be a half size larger than the CK. That dealer carried both, and when I realized they where virtual the same size, then the small things got me, and went kioti. It really was small things, and just preference kinda stuff.
 
   / Tractor decision #86  
There is a guy right now, on here, in main land New York, selling one heck of a MF1760M cab, loader, for $37.5k.
Interest and discussion in used tractors has been declining for years now. At present there doesn't seem to be a lot of buyers looking for used machinery. That is reflected in the price.
rScotty
 
   / Tractor decision #87  
Interest and discussion in used tractors has been declining for years now. At present there doesn't seem to be a lot of buyers looking for used machinery. That is reflected in the price.
rScotty
Hope that holds true until next summer!
 
   / Tractor decision #88  
Well, a lot of people selling, seem to want new price, for a 2 or 5 year old machine. If I'm going to buy used, I want to see a substantial cost savings. A $50k machine for $37k, is a pretty significant cost savings. A $40k machine for $35k isn't really.
 
   / Tractor decision #89  
Well, a lot of people selling, seem to want new price, for a 2 or 5 year old machine. If I'm going to buy used, I want to see a substantial cost savings. A $50k machine for $37k, is a pretty significant cost savings. A $40k machine for $35k isn't really.
If I was in the market for a larger tractor I'd be all over that Massey. Good find paulsharvey
 
   / Tractor decision #90  
Well, a lot of people selling, seem to want new price, for a 2 or 5 year old machine. If I'm going to buy used, I want to see a substantial cost savings. A $50k machine for $37k, is a pretty significant cost savings. A $40k machine for $35k isn't really.
Well, I can think of several things that work in your advantage even if the price is close to original.
That sounds counter-intuitive, but here are some things to ponder...

All of this assumes that our used buyer - maybe that is you or maybe not - but whoever it is, will only buy something used from someone who takes care of it. And if he does that, he gets ffree his break-in time and someone else's time spent attending to warranty and maintenance. The Original Purchaser (OP here) did all that, so the used purchaser can enjoy the benefits. From this point, if the first thousand hours were done right the tractor will most probably not require anything for a decade.

And then there are extras. The guy selling a used tractor to either of us probably has literature, spare parts, a maintenance history....chains, filters maybe even some special tools for it. Those should either all come along or for a nominal fee,

And then there is the financial side. It turns out that it does cost a buyer today less than than the original buyer paid even if the used buyer pays the same dollars the first guy did. Use any of the online inflation/interest cost calculators to figure out how much.
That online calculator will tell you what dollars back then will buy new today. Not as much..... but that's just because on average, dollars are worth less today than in any previous year.

For example, compared to buying a $50K tractor in 2018, there is already a 20% cost advantage compared to buying the same tractor new today - even more so if the price is dropped to $37.5K. Inflation can be made to work as an advantage in the used market.

rScotty
 
   / Tractor decision #91  
Well, what I often see, locally, is about 10% Over new, but comes with impliments. I think I would rather buy 100% new, and source heavily used impliments. Too each their own.
 
   / Tractor decision #92  
As an example, a '21 Kubota L3301, for $30k. Yes, you get a box blade and mid mount mower (I assume, it says mower deck), and a box blade.

Brand new, you could get a CK3510/3520; for $26.5k; leaving plenty of money to pick up a $300 BB and $750 finish mower; and financing new would probably be significantly cheaper than financing the used machine (rates, length of loan, insurance, ect).

Now, let's say, that Kubota, with impliments, was $20k, then, that become worth it (maybe).
Screenshot_20240107_210227_Facebook.jpg
 
   / Tractor decision #93  
As an example, a '21 Kubota L3301, for $30k. Yes, you get a box blade and mid mount mower (I assume, it says mower deck), and a box blade.

Brand new, you could get a CK3510/3520; for $26.5k; leaving plenty of money to pick up a $300 BB and $750 finish mower; and financing new would probably be significantly cheaper than financing the used machine (rates, length of loan, insurance, ect).

Now, let's say, that Kubota, with impliments, was $20k, then, that become worth it (maybe).View attachment 842968
That's an interesting comparison, and good example of both of our biases. I like it.

The Year of a tractor goes by when it is sold, not the year manufactured. That leads to some oddities. Both the Kioti and Kubota are models that have been out for awhile, so it is entirely possible that both that Kioti 3510 and the Kubota 3301 were manufactured in a model run around the same time - say, 2015 - and warehoused for years. In fact, the used one could actually be several years newer.

You would have to compare serial numbers with help from the mfg or dealer to be sure.
BTW, 110 hours is nothing. In fact, probably better than zero hours as it has enough hours to be proven good - and the most important services already done.

The price difference could simply be the standard difference between a manual transmission or single speed HST versus the Kubota's 3 speed hydrostatic.

Or it could be in the quality of the implements. Those are very inexpensive implement prices you are quoting.

From the descriptions you give, I'd call it a draw pricewise - but without enough information to actually make a decision.

rScotty
 
   / Tractor decision #94  
As an example, a '21 Kubota L3301, for $30k. Yes, you get a box blade and mid mount mower (I assume, it says mower deck), and a box blade.

Brand new, you could get a CK3510/3520; for $26.5k; leaving plenty of money to pick up a $300 BB and $750 finish mower; and financing new would probably be significantly cheaper than financing the used machine (rates, length of loan, insurance, ect).

Now, let's say, that Kubota, with impliments, was $20k, then, that become worth it (maybe).View attachment 842968
I don’t believe the L01 Kubota series have mid pto, so they are probably referring to a 3ph rotary cutter or grooming mower. I agree with Scotty. Those implements aren’t cheap, especially the 6 way hydraulic blade, mower and chipper. If those implements are in good condition as well as the tractor, and the implements would be of use to you, that’s a good deal. Especially if the original warranty will transfer. No warranty, I would go with the new Kioti.
 
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   / Tractor decision #95  
This fallacy of used equipment being better than new is just silly. More likely is that the used equipment has been proven to have a problem and the seller is getting rid of the problem. It could just be that the seller was lax in his maintenance or pushed the unit beyond its capacity. Those problems can be hidden, but may be a ticking time bomb. Caveat Emptor.

There are exceptions, but it really takes a combination of mechanical knowledge to investigate the unit beforehand and personal knowledge of the seller and their integrity.

Is it possible that a used tractor has the 'kinks' worked out? Sure. Is it likely? No.

Like anything else, buying used tractors is primarily a cost play. With diesels, it can be an emissions play, too. (For some people it could also just be a hobby thing...enjoy finding and fixing problems/restoration) Losing most or all of the warranty is hardly a good thing compared to the vain hope that the seller is honest.
 
   / Tractor decision #96  
Admittedly, I have not read all the comments, so I me be dublicating some.
Shop the dealer. If the service is no good, no tractor will be totally satisfactory.
Mass is your friend. Assumiming two machines of near-qual horsepower, you can get more work out of the heavier one--1000 pounds makes a big difference.
I agree that a cab is more trouble than it's worth if you're working in the woods.
Don't be afraid of a rental to do singular projects--e.g. an excavator for digging.
You'll get lots of good advice here, filter it as to what applies to you.
 
   / Tractor decision #97  
And it is his money.
Doesn't mean his decision will be the best. I have 35 acres woods, 10 acres non wooded.
If I was worried about snow and the cold I probably would have gone with a cab but being in East Texas I elected not to bust glass and weather the heat.
 
   / Tractor decision #98  
Hi, I’m new to this forum. I have 50 acres, 15 pasture, 35 wooded. We are starting construction on a new home, 1400 foot driveway. Right now I am focused on LS
MT347 cab hydro with bucket, plow, box blade, brush hog. Am I on the right track? Up until now I have only had garden tractors. Thnx, Barry
Also consider a backhoe attachment and a grader. Landpride makes a great grader for those long driveways. Look at service after the sale, most problems show up during the 1st 100 hours, parts if you DYI. I run a Kubota and love it. Follow your maintenance schedule get a great grease gun “Dewalt or Lincoln” grease is cheaper than steel and get some zerk guards Cheap and ensures everything gets grease and keeps the zerks in great shape for years.
 
   / Tractor decision #99  
I understand the caution with cab in woods, but want ac/heat.
the 15 acres may do some small plots , garden. Driveway will be maintained only, plow for snow with 3rd function.
Implements: snow plow, grapple, brushhog, box blade, pallet forks, bucket.
Budget about 55k.
Terrain, slight rolling hills, north western Pa climate, occasional big snow accumulations.
Storage for now , garage until outbuilding can be built.
Plow for snow removal driveway(1400 feet).

I agree with the cab for your situation. I'm not a cold person so I would want to be comfortable plowing snow. Just remember to clear paths through your woods for working with a cab tractor.

I would stick with R1's (agricultural) tires. As much as you will be clearing snow you don't want to have deal with chains for the tires.

I would test drive the New Holland, John Deere and Kubota in the 55 hp range before you make your final decision. Look at dealer rating as well as parts availability. Dealer maybe great but if parts are an issue it won't matter.

Remember; buy once, cry once.
 
   / Tractor decision #100  
Buy more tractor than you think you need. You will always want a bigger/better tractor. Check out each dealer's reputation and whether or not they will pick up for service.
 

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