1st time buyer - 35 hp comparisons

[Torvy]

I think DEF usually shows up over 75 HP.

Don't worry about the emissions. Unless you can find an older tractor and have the time and ability to keep it running, the size you need will have some type of emissions. Just learn what they need.

 

[rScotty]

For new tractor buyers the PTO operation is something to consider. If the tractor is to be used for mowing, haying, power raking, snowblowing or tilling....or any operation where the PTO is used, then spend a little time figuring how the PTO is engaged on the model tractor that interests you.

There are several different types of PTO controls. The best PTO controls allow the PTO to be engaged/disengaged and clutched completely independently of what else the tractor might be doing.

You want a PTO that takes the load up controllably rather than abruptly, has over-driven protection, and that lets the implement be brought up to speed before starting to move off.

Not related to the PTO, but another feature some find useful is automatic draft control on the 3pt hitch. That starts to be an available option at about 30 to 40 hp and up. Auto-draft control really makes a difference in plowing or any type of 3pt ground breaking. It has no other use that I know of...
rScotty

 

[Martin Roper]

I’m in the market for a 35 HP tractor and I’ve done a lot of research as a first time buyer.

The tractor will mostly being used for dirt work around the house (2 flat acres) and lifting items with the FEL. I also have 100 acres of hunting property to brush hog roads/shooting lanes, and plant about 5 acres of food plots.

Dealers seem to be a hot topic when it comes to tractors so I’ve narrowed it down to these, their time selling the tractors and distance from me.

YT235 - 2 dealers (1 has been selling Yanmar for 8 years and is 25 miles away, they only sale yanmar products). Other one is 40 miles away, didn’t get details on selling time

Kioti ck3520SE - 27 miles away, only been selling Kioti for 8 months.

Kubota L3302 (or L3902) - 2 dealerships within 20 miles. Been selling as long as I can remember.

Anyone have any experiences with these tractors, part availability, etc? I’d be doing as much repair work myself as possible.

In my opinion, if you are capable of doing most of the work your self I would cross all three of those dealer reliant tractors from your list and look at larger second hand machines with as little electronics as possible. As has already been suggested some thing 60 to 70 horse (maybe even 80) with the larger frame and engine block will be more comfortable, handle the equipment with less stress, be more stable (particularly important for use with the loader) and probably cost a lot less. Personally I would go for a Ford but Massey, International or John Deere would all serve you well with ample back up of new or used spares.

 

[KBA CPA]

In my opinion, if you are capable of doing most of the work your self I would cross all three of those dealer reliant tractors from your list and look at larger second hand machines with as little electronics as possible. As has already been suggested some thing 60 to 70 horse (maybe even 80) with the larger frame and engine block will be more comfortable, handle the equipment with less stress, be more stable (particularly important for use with the loader) and probably cost a lot less. Personally I would go for a Ford but Massey, International or John Deere would all serve you well with ample back up of new or used spares.

While I do think that’s a good point - it’s not a good short term fix.

From what I realized after posting this, I’m really trying to do the work of 2 tractors with 1 tractor. A smaller tractor would probably be fine for the little bit of house work I need and a larger tractor would be much better suited for the hunting property.

However, since I obviously can’t buy 2 now, the hunting property really isn’t much of a factor for another 5-10 years and maybe at that point, another tractor could be an option.

With that said, I’m still no closer to a final decision than I was before I posted this lol. All have pros and cons and there’s so much brand loyalty with Kubota (rightly so) but hard to pay a premium for less tractor, just for the “what if” I have an issue with the tractor.

The YT235 is probably in the lead currently, followed by the L3302, then Kioti 3520SE.

I’m still torn between gear drive and hydro… on one hand, gear drive just seems fun, like a tractor is supposed to driven, and on the other hand, hydro would probably be more convenient, but obviously at a cost (literally) and power.

 

[finn1]

One thing to consider is if the tractor needs DEF. Somewhere around 28 to 35 HP is where tractors start requiring DEF, and DEF is a real pain to deal with. A friend of mine just bought a Kubota tractor and later discovered that if it had 1-2 less HP it would not have needed a DEF system.wrong. DEF doesn’t become part of the equation until 75 hp.

 

[saint517]

I've had a YT235 fel for 6 years. Love it and have had zero issues. Perfect for the 4 acres around the house and being a one man wrecking crew. Tires were filled and added a 3rd function valve myself with several other implements. Any questions on it let me know.

 

[KBA CPA]

I've had a YT235 fel for 6 years. Love it and have had zero issues. Perfect for the 4 acres around the house and being a one man wrecking crew. Tires were filled and added a 3rd function valve myself with several other implements. Any questions on it let me know.

Good to hear, how much did the 3rd function run you and was it hard to install? I for sure want rear remotes but wasn’t sure about a 3rd function

 

[saint517]

Good to hear, how much did the 3rd function run you and was it hard to install? I for sure want rear remotes but wasn’t sure about a 3rd function

3rd function was $800ish (W.R. Long kit) vs. $2100 that the dealer wanted to install a Yanmar kit. Pretty easy install of just removing a rear wheel and tapping into the power beyond port with the new parts. And have some extra fluid on hand to top off what you lose.

 

[stancel]

The 35 horse modern tractors seem to be kind of the worst of modern tractors. You have all of the emissions equipment headache but not much actual power.

In this case I would rather have my Kioti CK2610 and just turn it back up without the emissions headache or I would get a tractor with a little more HP.

FWIW l, my CK2610 has been a solid tractor and I live in an area that is hard on tractors and tractor drivers. (Pacific NW, hilly terrain, construction, light logging and light mowing...) I had a Japanese made compact Mahindra that was also sold under Bobcats name before this tractor and it was far less capable.

I hate the emissions BS also, but the CK3520 only has a regen button. No DEF. The dealer told me you might go 500 hours before ever hitting that regen button so it was a non issue for me. If that is true and it takes that long to require the DPF to need regen then the machine is extremely clean burning.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

I hate the emissions BS also, but the CK3520 only has a regen button. No DEF. The dealer told me you might go 500 hours before ever hitting that regen button so it was a non issue for me. If that is true and it takes that long to require the DPF to need regen then the machine is extremely clean burning.

500 hours? That's not common on a Kioti. Most people are 20-50 hours between

 

[stancel]

500 hours? That's not common on a Kioti. Most people are 20-50 hours between

I have over 50 and yet to see the light but I am not doubting you. This came from a salesman. Only 1 small step up from a politician.

 

[tacticalturnip]

I hate the emissions BS also, but the CK3520 only has a regen button. No DEF. The dealer told me you might go 500 hours before ever hitting that regen button so it was a non issue for me. If that is true and it takes that long to require the DPF to need regen then the machine is extremely clean burning.

Just keep your RPM's up when you're running the machine and the DPF will do it's thing. Given you're over 50 hours without a regen cycle I'd say you're already keeping up on it.

That said, 500 hours is an absolute load, lol.

OP, regarding your remotes; if you're financing the machine get it plumbed with the hydraulics. Rear remotes, third function, whatever you think you'll need for the future- this is your best time.

Yanmar, Kioti, Kubota, they're all good machines.

 

[KBA CPA]

I have over 50 and yet to see the light but I am not doubting you. This came from a salesman. Only 1 small step up from a politician.

Agree with everyone about DPF should regen every 20-50 hours or so.

That said, there seems to be a common misconception here between DPF (diesel particulate filter) and DEF (Diesel exhaust fluid). From 2013 (I believe as I’m new to this), tractors over 25 HP are subject to tier IV emissions which in most cases means that these tractors have a DPF. The DPF in layman’s terms, collects diesel particulates and once it get full enough, the engine throws extra fuel into cylinders to increase exhaust gases to burn out the particulates in the filter. This process is called regeneration, or regen.

On the flip side, I didn’t research this as it wasn’t applicable to be but from reading this thread, tractors over 75 horsepower may have DEF along with a DPF. This DEF is injected into the exhaust to form a chemical reaction with the NOx gases to convert them into elements (I think water and…. Something else, not sure) to essentially help with greenhouse gases.

Hope that clears the air regarding the emissions. If it’s anything like trucks, the DEF system is usually the more unreliable side to the emissions components. Trucks also have the SCR (selective catalytic reduction) which is part of the DEF, not sure if that’s the case for tractors.

 

[KBA CPA]

Agree with everyone about DPF should regen every 20-50 hours or so.

That said, there seems to be a common misconception here between DPF (diesel particulate filter) and DEF (Diesel exhaust fluid). From 2013 (I believe as I’m new to this), tractors over 25 HP are subject to tier IV emissions which in most cases means that these tractors have a DPF. The DPF in layman’s terms, collects diesel particulates and once it get full enough, the engine throws extra fuel into cylinders to increase exhaust gases to burn out the particulates in the filter. This process is called regeneration, or regen.

On the flip side, I didn’t research this as it wasn’t applicable to be but from reading this thread, tractors over 75 horsepower may have DEF along with a DPF. This DEF is injected into the exhaust to form a chemical reaction with the NOx gases to convert them into elements (I think water and…. Something else, not sure) to essentially help with greenhouse gases.

Hope that clears the air regarding the emissions. If it’s anything like trucks, the DEF system is usually the more unreliable side to the emissions components. Trucks also have the SCR (selective catalytic reduction) which is part of the DEF, not sure if that’s the case for tractors.

Anyway, correct me if you want but it’s very off topic from the original 35 HP thread.

On a flip side, got another quote back for the Yanmar YT235 for $26,800 (without a rebate) but their financing is rough. Usually you have to put 20-40% down to get 0% interest.

Kioti has 0% for 60/72 months so that’s something to consider too. The CK3520SEs are nice!!

 

[tacticalturnip]

That down-payment on the Yanmar is painful.

 

[Oldstuff]

Look for a 2-13 tractor with low hours, that is what I did

 

[rScotty]

SNIP>>>
The YT235 is probably in the lead currently, followed by the L3302, then Kioti 3520SE.

I’m still torn between gear drive and hydro… on one hand, gear drive just seems fun, like a tractor is supposed to driven, and on the other hand, hydro would probably be more convenient, but obviously at a cost (literally) and power.

Does it matter what type of PTO it has? Apparently the L3302 has different types of PTOs depending on the transmission. There are several different type of PTOs, and sometimes the spec data is a bit vague on PTO features.
rScotty

 

[KBA CPA]

Does it matter what type of PTO it has? Apparently the L3302 has different types of PTOs depending on the transmission. There are several different type of PTOs, and sometimes the spec data is a bit vague on PTO features.
rScotty

I don’t know much about the PTO types but it seems like an independent PTO is the way to go from what I’ve read. Granted I don’t know the pros and cons to either a live or independent PTO

 

[rScotty]

I think DEF usually shows up over 75 HP.

Don't worry about the emissions. Unless you can find an older tractor and have the time and ability to keep it running, the size you need will have some type of emissions. Just learn what they need.

Of course for a person who looks and finds a well maintained older tractor... say year 2000 to 2014 - they then have all modern features in a pre-emissions tractor. No warranty, but a tractor more designed for self maintenance. And It is nice not to have to deal with emissions or have a tractor that is required to run at high RPM all the time.

The money saved could be sad to pay for a person's time, and education is what creates ability.

So there are advantages - but only if money or education is more interesting than something else.
And the "something else's" in life can be pretty persuasive.
rScotty

 

[D&D]

I don’t know much about the PTO types but it seems like an independent PTO is the way to go from what I’ve read. Granted I don’t know the pros and cons to either a live or independent PTO

A live pto requires an independent clutch to turn it off/on.
Something to consider is that some of the independent pto’s have an electric brake which does not allow the pto stub to freewheel . Makes it a little harder to attach pto powered implements (IMO).