Older Jinma 354 controls…no manual

[DonRina]

So..I bought this older Jinma 354 that has twin headlights and a three cylinder diesel. I’ve looked for a manual for this guy but haven’t had much success but have some newer versions. My questions are: what the knob under the seat does? What the floor right hand side rearward pedal does? This one seems to be stuck.

If anyone has a manual for this model and is willing to share that would be great!

Thanks,

Don B

 

[RjCorazza]

The under seat knob is likely the 3 point lowering control.
The other foot lever is probably the rear differential lock.

 

[DonRina]

Thanks, the lowering control was jammed or rusted so I loosened it up with liquid wrench but didn’t see any movement when I screwed it in and out. The foot lever was very stiff. Can’t see any difference when I work it either but probably can’t tell anyway. Here is a picture of what I have. You can also see the pto rodlike lever.

 

[sd455dan]

So..I bought this older Jinma 354 that has twin headlights and a three cylinder diesel. I’ve looked for a manual for this guy but haven’t had much success but have some newer versions. My questions are: what the knob under the seat does? What the floor right hand side rearward pedal does? This one seems to be stuck.

If anyone has a manual for this model and is willing to share that would be great!

Thanks,

Don B

There is usually a parts and Operation manual for chinese machines Affordable or Circle G should be able to get what you need.

I sure wish Farm Boys was still around, for my Rhino Parts.

Jinma Tractor Dealers

Hi Everybody, As you may know, TractorByNet.com is an advertiser-supported community. We would like to recognize the following Jinma Tractor Dealers as advertisers and recommend that you give them a call if you are in the market for a tractor or parts. Oh, and be sure to let them know that...

www.tractorbynet.com

Some may also have gone out of business. Maybe try Circle G or Keno tractors.

Jinma & Farm Pro Tractor Parts | Circle G Tractor Parts

Circle G Tractor Parts is your go-to source for Chinese tractor parts, including Jinma tractor parts, Nortrac tractor parts, and Farm Pro tractor parts.

www.circlegtractorparts.com

Affordable Tractor Sales Co

www.affordabletractorsalesco.com

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Thanks, the lowering control was jammed or rusted so I loosened it up with liquid wrench but didn’t see any movement when I screwed it in and out. The foot lever was very stiff. Can’t see any difference when I work it either but probably can’t tell anyway. Here is a picture of what I have. You can also see the pto rodlike lever.

What usually happens with that knob is that the set screw snaps off and then it spins on the shaft and doesn't do anything. I also remember stories of people screwing it in all the way and then being unabled to loosen it and the hydraulic fluid was cut off. I've had my 354 since 2007, never touched the knob and never needed it, my advice is not to touch it if you're happy with the way the 3-point moves.

The pedal under your right heel is the differential lock. Very handy if one wheel starts spinning.

 

[DonRina]

I think the screw is working ok, doesn’t seem snapped off anyway. I think I’ll keep spraying and working everything to try to loosen it all up. Is the differential lock pedal on a spring? I can only get it move by using a large screwdriver. I’ve never seen the three point upper shaft move in or out. Probably pooched. Not sure where to add hydraulic fluid for the three point section either.

 

[RjCorazza]

The 3 point lowering valve usually requires VERY little movement to operate. The valve on my Kubota machine has an operating range of perhaps 1/2 a turn.
The diff lock is spring loaded, and are notoriously hard to activate with your heel. Some folks fab up larger extension plates for the pedal.

 

[California]

In simpler terms - the knob under the seat chokes off fluid to the 3-point. You screw it all the way in, if you don't want a 3-point attachment to lower while you have it raised. For example while digging weeds out of a rototiller. If your 3-point lever does nothing, that valve might be stuck in closed position.

Sounds like your differential lock pedal is no longer attached to the internal parts. Drive in a sharp turn to verify the rear wheels are free to turn at different speeds. And if you can get the difflock to engage, you will likely go straight ahead regardless of steering.

Difflock is nice to have but not crucial, the old timers got a similar effect by braking the tire that was slipping. Investigate what's going on after you have resolved more important stuff.

 

[DonRina]

In simpler terms - the knob under the seat chokes off fluid to the 3-point. You screw it all the way in, if you don't want a 3-point attachment to lower while you have it raised. For example while digging weeds out of a rototiller. If your 3-point lever does nothing, that valve might be stuck in closed position.

Sounds like your differential lock pedal is no longer attached to the internal parts. Drive in a sharp turn to verify the rear wheels are free to turn at different speeds. And if you can get the difflock to engage, you will likely go straight ahead regardless of steering.

Difflock is nice to have but not crucial, the old timers got a similar effect by braking the tire that was slipping. Investigate what's going on after you have resolved more important stuff.

Thanks, I’ll do the test in the next few days. Things do seem locked up now though. Need to get the three point working so I can run a backhoe. Just topped up the oil.

 

[DonRina]

Well, the three point still wasn’t working. Tried raising the engine rpm , which worked before, but no go. Decided to remove the seat and then the cover plate to see what is happening…or not.

I drained the hydraulic fluid. What I found was the filter was more than blocked by sludge. There was no way the return line could have been working. I also fond LOTS of old oil crud thoughout. I think this is the problem so I flushed the hell out of everything with varsol and finished up with diesel. I was able to clean out the filter in situ. Very messy operation. I’ll have to make a new cover gasket then fill it up and give it a go.

BTW, the front screw for the lowering rate just screwed in to but end on a spring loaded piston. I had thought it just went into a needle valve. I’ll get some pics in the next couple of days. A perfect job would have flushed out the control block assembly but I think the new fluid with the clean out I did should work.

Probably the original oil in it, lol.