So I did a thing... Agria 8900D

[ning]

It bothers me a little bit, just not enough to change it.

The angle of that picture makes it look worse than it is. Looking from the seal, the handle only blocks a little bit at the bottom. I can still see the RPM easily.

View attachment 854434

Maybe turn the locker handle upside down?

 

[airbiscuit]

I can't believe that won't bug you enough to relocate the tach, lol.

After all that work, that blocked tach would bother me. Can you relocate the STOP knob and put the tach in the far NW corner?

 

[MTGreen]

Could also just cut the handle portion of the lever down to half height -would be a lot less effort to achieve the same functionality and aesthetic

 

[2manyrocks]

You've made it back into an awesome tractor. Not many people could do that.

 

[ptsg]

Appreciate all the suggestions. I can't turn the lever down because the way it's built.

I did bent the handle down a little bit and it did help some more. I'll still keep it that way and it's not really an issue. All in all, the only lights I need to see are the oil pressure light and the charge light.

Speaking of charge light, is it required to have a diode between the ignition and the charge light? The reason I'm asking is because without the diode, the light will keep lit although, very very dim. If I rev up, it will become brighter. Checking with the multimeter, the alternator is charging very well.

The only way to make the light go out entirely is with the diode.

 

[Topzide]

When you put the diode in the circuit, does the light come on when the tractor is off and key on? If so, this is what you want. If it's not able to tell you when it's stopped charging, then I would look at a way to make that happen. What does the factory wiring show?

 

[ptsg]

When you put the diode in the circuit, does the light come on when the tractor is off and key on? If so, this is what you want. If it's not able to tell you when it's stopped charging, then I would look at a way to make that happen. What does the factory wiring show?

Yes, the light turns On with the ignition On and will turn off once the engine is running and it's charging. With the diode it works as it should.

Checking some online diagrams, none refer to the diode, that's what made me wondering.

The factory wiring got mostly melted at one point and there was a some extra wires because this tractor came with the alternator mounted behind the flywheel and an external regulator. Then someone jerry rigged the alternator mounted on the fan shroud.

No wiring diagram anywhere to be found, so I'm doing everything from scratch.

 

[K5lwq]

I do not see a problem with using a diode. Should work just fine.

 

[Topzide]

I'll second the diode being added to function correctly.

 

[ptsg]

And she is pretty much done. Just missing the 3 pt linkage. That will be the next step or maybe I'll tackle the tiller first. I want to try the tiller as is first.

The diode did the trick and it's working exactly as it should. Even as I shut down the engine, the charge light will turn on as the RPMs start dropping.

I did change the seat mounting. Added an hinge at the front so I can flip the seat up. I should've done that from the get go as it gives me so much more access. This also raised the seat slightly and now I can see the dashboard perfectly fine. The locker lever will only cover the "0" on the tachometer.

The electric part is all done. Front lights, rear marker lights, brake lights and left/right indicators front and back. Not technically necessary as this tractor doesn't have license plate and title, so it can't really drive legally on the roads but the lights do give a more completed look to the tractor.

Adjusted the fuel delivery plate to give more fuel as it was doing this kind of breaking up/missing at 2500+ RPM. The adjustment does seem to have fixed that.

 

[workinonit]

That's pretty sweet.

 

[ptsg]

Got some side by side pictures of the Branson and the Agria.

Also did a somewhat of a test fit on the tiller. It's way too wide for it but I think it can do it on this sandy soil. At least when it's dry.

This was mostly to take some measurements for the 3 pt linkage. I remember I had a shorter PTO shaft that came with one of the crawler tractors so I don't have to make the arms way too long nor I have to cut the one from the Branson.

 

[Carl_NH]

You're Agria appears to be hungry for the challenge (the pulley in the front is like a mouth) for a chance to run that tiller!

 

[ptsg]

You're Agria appears to be hungry for the challenge (the pulley in the front is like a mouth) for a chance to run that tiller!

Judging by the missing chunk, I'm sure it ate something before!!

That pulley is for pull start with a rope. Well, if one is brave enough. There is a lot of compression to fight against. Either you'll pull the rope with vigor or it will hurt you very bad and may even start running backwards. That has happened to me before on a slightly smaller engine. What a smoke show!

 

[2manyrocks]

The Agria is certainly colorful. I'd be interested in your thoughts from an operator's viewpoint as to what is different about the Agria from a typical tractor.

 

[ptsg]

The Agria is certainly colorful. I'd be interested in your thoughts from an operator's viewpoint as to what is different about the Agria from a typical tractor.

Still need to gather some more thoughts as I use it from the operators viewpoint.

Essentially, this type of tractor is built to work on hills and tight places. Hence the low profile and narrow stance. These are the main features of this type of tractor.

For instance, these tractors are used a lot in vineyards done in terraces. These vineyards have a narrow spacing in between rows, so the narrow stance of the tractor is needed and so is the low profile, since terraces are done on side of mountains.

Here is a little example of an Antonio Carraro demoing the maneuverability in Douro region, north of Portugal, where some of the best whines are made.

My old Agria is very basic. It's an old tractor after all. The modern ones have some really nice features and often provide higher hydraulic flow rates, since a lot of central mounted implements are hydraulic driven.

The main players on this style of tractor are Antonio Carraro, BCS Group (Pasquali, Ferrari and BCS, all the same) and Goldoni. All these brands offer this style of tractors and some variants as well, like low and wide or low and narrow.

They also offer either Articulated steering and the conventional front axle steering (a bit safer than the articulated). BCS also offer a dual steering system which combines the articulation with the front axle steering.

Another great benefit of these tractors and probably the main selling point, is that some models offer a reversible operators platform. Essentially you turn the operators platform around so you're facing the implement all the time.

My old Agria is very basic. It's an old tractor after all. The modern ones have some really nice features and often provide higher hydraulic flow rates, since a lot of central mounted implements are hydraulic driven.

Forget loader work with this type of tractor. Not at all made for it. These have a weight distribution of like 60% Front and 40% back. Totally the opposite of a conventional tractor. This little Agria probably has more than 60% on the front. With no implement in the back, it's always trying to spin tires on me without 4WD engaged.

Then, there is the long nose. This would make the loader with really long arms and very little lifting capacity. While you'll some videos of these tractors with loaders, it's often a cumbersome setup that can only do very light work.

Sorry of the long post. I tend to digress "slightly".

 

[2manyrocks]

Looks like the primary advantage is the ability to make a tight turn in a narrow orchard row on a steep hillside without overturning. That's pretty spectacular. No electronic injection and no DPF. I doubt today's tractors will still be running 50 years from now because of all the sensors.

 

[ptsg]

Got the 3 pt linkage done and also made a set of 5 mm shims that will work as stabilizers. I did run my big tiller without the shims and didn't feel the need for any of the shims, but I'll add it anyway to reduce some of the side to side play.

For the big tiller experience. I was really surprise how easily it handled this bigger tiller. Even though the ground is kinda sandy, it was very wet and compacted from not being tilled for a long time. It did gave the engine a workout looking how much paint got burned off the muffler.

It is quite loud so I'll definitely use some ear protection next time I till with it.

Between the belt slipping and the relief valve opening, this tiller its all it wants to lift. It's only 520 lbs but sticks way out as you can see. I'll probably drill another hole on the lower links for the side links to hook on so it gets a little bit more leverage.

Turning this thing while tilling is quite a chore!! Being articulated, it pushes the attachment in the back side ways, with the tiller buried in the ground, that's a big job on the steering. For sure. I think with the tiller it came with it, it will do a lot better.

Still a lot to learn about it. Specially steering. I keep missing all my tight turns since it's so different from a conventional tractor. I'll get it eventually.

 

[ning]

Is there any room that perhaps you could make a cross-linkage going diagonal from the end of each 3pt arm to near the beginning of the other?
What you're looking for is triangulation, any could help, though you'd need to be careful if lowering an implement that it doesn't hit the PTO shaft.

 

[MTGreen]

Is there any room that perhaps you could make a cross-linkage going diagonal from the end of each 3pt arm to near the beginning of the other?
What you're looking for is triangulation, any could help, though you'd need to be careful if lowering an implement that it doesn't hit the PTO shaft.
View attachment 857022

Good idea that's what I suggested in post 131