Trailer JD 3039R

   / Trailer JD 3039R #31  
While I am at this, what do you guys use to tie down your tractors? I have chains and binders. But the trailer dealer suggested straps.
Chains and binders all the way.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #33  
Any idea how much a scale like that costs? Are they easily found? I've never heard of them.

I use a Sherline scale for my RV and equipment trailer. They're around $150 or so. The integrated into the hitch scale looks very convenient, I may look into those!
There are methods I've never tried using a normal bathroom scale and some lumber you may want to look into.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R
  • Thread Starter
#34  
I use a Sherline scale for my RV and equipment trailer. They're around $150 or so. The integrated into the hitch scale looks very convenient, I may look into those!
There are methods I've never tried using a normal bathroom scale and some lumber you may want to look into.
I don't think a bathroom scale will reach the 500+ lbs I think I need to measure. But as I was looking at what @alexpops suggested, I realized that getting a reading will take a bit of finness. Probably some lumber or maybe a bottle jack.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #35  
While I am at this, what do you guys use to tie down your tractors? I have chains and binders. But the trailer dealer suggested straps.

I use chains and binders for the tractor itself (one on each side of front axle, using soft axle straps, and one through a shackle at the rear hitch. Then straps for the bucket and tiller (or whatever is on the rear end).
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #36  
I use 10,000# straps, one on each corner, meaning two up front and two in back. They probably outclass the strength of the eyes I’m hooking them to on the trailer, anyway.

As to tongue weight, two things:

1. Quick method is to find point where trailer is balanced, and then move load a fraction of the length forward of that, distance determined by weight of load vs. curb weight of tractor and distance from trailer axles to hitch. This is a rough measure, but useful with changing loads.

2. For anything you’re doing frequently, where you really want an accurate measure, there is a common trick using a bathroom scale. Essentially, a pair of jack stands either side of the tongue, with one just a foot from the tongue and the other 4 ft from the tongue. Jam the bathroom scale under the one 4 ft from the tongue, and a pipe or timber between the jack stands, which the tongue will be lowered onto (after re-zero’ing the scale). Height should be with trailer leveled. Then Archimedes can tell you the tongue weight, based on distances and what is measured on the scale.

You can buy tongue jacks, decent ones are $150-$200, but I’ve measured countless machines with bathroom scales, it’s really not that difficult with some simple middle-school math.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #37  
   / Trailer JD 3039R #38  
If you moving your tractor it needs implements to work with, so you need an even longer trailer.

I have a 18’ trailer and it is too short. I would like to get a 22’ trailer with at least 5200 pound (= 10k trailer) axles at a minimum, 6k or 7k pound axles would be better.

I have a 74” flail mower that is much shorter than 6’ bush hog and tractor is a New Holland TC45DA.

As you can see there’s little to no room to adjust the load and no room for a longer implement.
 

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   / Trailer JD 3039R #39  
I have straps mainly because I don’t tow a lot and they are cheaper. If you already have the chains and binders I’d keep using them.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R
  • Thread Starter
#40  
RjCorazza and WinterDeere, thanks for the tips on the bathroom scale method. I'm ashamed that I did not think of it myself. A little 7th grade geometry and Intro Physics is pretty straight forward. These forums are really a heck of a resource.

I can run a chain through a shackle on the rear hitch, but I don't know how I'm going to grab on to the front. I'm sure I can figure that out eventually.
 

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