Failure, how did this happen?

[JCoastie]

Wife was raking up pine straw for the chicken hut today, so I did not see this happen, nor did she, just the aftermath. We've used this rake for a few years without issue, it is not a new implement for us.

The pine straw rake flipped at least 90 degrees, the hydraulic top link was down low and hit and bent the PTO cover.

The steel bar on the rake bent from the pressure. I forgot to take a picture of that, and we have since made repairs.

Is the only way this can happen is if the top link was retracted too far?
I moved the top link and lift arms in the field trying to correct the issue, so these pics are not in virgin failure form, but WTF happened?

 

[2515R Dude]

Easy fix. She might retracted upper link too much.

 

[ptsg]

What 2515R Dude said, plus, you may want to put the top link on the bottom hole on the tractor side. Kinda looks like the rake was meant for those smaller tractors that don't quite have a true Cat 1 3pt hitch, so the distance between top link pin and bottom pins on the rake is too short.

 

[JCoastie]

you may want to put the top link on the bottom hole on the tractor side.

I did a lot of searching on that when I got the tractor several years ago, it seemed the upper hole was more common, and nothing in any of my manuals talks about it. What determines which hole to use (that sounds really bad lol)

We have several implements, stump grinder, box blade, landscape rake, pine straw rake, should I be using the upper or lower for specific implements? We've always used the upper for everything.

 

[CalG]

The linkage went over center. It "toggled". top link is too short. Or the geometry is wrong.

 

[K5lwq]

The Pat’s quick hitch is also a contributing factor. Lower link being longer made it possible for the top link to cam over when it is too short.

 

[2515R Dude]

I did a lot of searching on that when I got the tractor several years ago, it seemed the upper hole was more common, and nothing in any of my manuals talks about it. What determines which hole to use (that sounds really bad lol)

We have several implements, stump grinder, box blade, landscape rake, pine straw rake, should I be using the upper or lower for specific implements? We've always used the upper for everything.

Actually the middle one is more common

 

[JCoastie]

Actually the middle one is more common

I'll concede that, mine only has upper and lower though, no middle option unfortunately.

What is the deciding factor on which is the best to use for a specific implement?

 

[ptsg]

I did a lot of searching on that when I got the tractor several years ago, it seemed the upper hole was more common, and nothing in any of my manuals talks about it. What determines which hole to use (that sounds really bad lol)

We have several implements, stump grinder, box blade, landscape rake, pine straw rake, should I be using the upper or lower for specific implements? We've always used the upper for everything.

I change the position of the top link depending on the implement I have. For my brush cutter, since I want the most lift I can get, I use the bottom hole. I can get the cutter to like 45 degrees which is great to back up to tall brush.

For my carry all box, I use the top hole. This makes the carry all box move as parallel as possible to the ground, which just a little tilt forward.

You kinda have to use and see what works best, specially to avoid this situation.

@K5lwq also provided a great point. The PATs only made it worse in this case, since it pushes the implement further away.

 

[5030]

I removed the PTO shield on both my M's years ago simply because it interferes with me hooking up my PTO driven implements, especially those with the new style (large diameter) end shields.

Back in the day, tractors didn't come with PTO shields at all. Much easier dealing with hooking up PTO driven implements with no shield on them.

Really not necessary in my view.

Far as the holes are concerned, which hole I use is predicated on how responsive I want my draft control to be. The lower the hole, the less sensitive the draft control becomes.

If it's not required for an implement, say my 3 point PTO driven Kuhn Gyro Rake, I use the top hole just because it's the most handy and of course my draft control lever is in the off position.

Don't know if you have draft or position control on your Kubota, but I do.

 

[JCoastie]

No draft control on this tractor

 

[jmc]

I did a lot of searching on that when I got the tractor several years ago, it seemed the upper hole was more common, and nothing in any of my manuals talks about it. What determines which hole to use...

My Kubota manual, IIRC, is also vague on those holes. Reminds me of textbooks that flog the intuitive points and just dutifully mention the less obvious stuff.

 

[2515R Dude]

I'll concede that, mine only has upper and lower though, no middle option unfortunately.

What is the deciding factor on which is the best to use for a specific implement?

Here is what my manual says. It is three hole but you probable can get the idea.
Also, i vaguely remember there was an extended discussion on this forum abut this topic.

EDIT: I found some discussion. It is not what i remember reading but there is some helpful info as well

3 holes for top link on tractor end

Hi all, I did a little search but taking the easy way out. On my Kubota I have a grader bar on the 3 point hitch Which of the 3 holes for top link will lift the grader bar off the ground the most? Is there ant downside? I am just dragging the blade and lifting the blade. How will it affect the...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[JCoastie]

here's mine, useless lol

The image above does not use the numbers in the image below.

 

[Williy]

Have you looked on youtube tractor mike has some good videos
on stuff like what you need

willy

 

[jyoutz]

The Pat’s quick hitch is also a contributing factor. Lower link being longer made it possible for the top link to cam over when it is too short.

Yes. If you use Pat’s quick hitch you need to buy a longer top link.

 

[Tx Jim]

Yes. If you use Pat’s quick hitch you need to buy a longer top link.

Ditto Pat's quick hitch adapters changes the geometry of the 3pt centerlink causes the problem in the photo when centerlink is too short. My guess is hyd center link rod needs depth stop segments added to the rod to help eliminate future problems.

 

[JCoastie]

Yes. If you use Pat’s quick hitch you need to buy a longer top link.

You'd think so, but I did that when I originally put them on, went the next size up and it was too long, I could not use some of my implements, so I sold that one and went back to stock size. The longer one totally did not work in my situation.

 

[JCoastie]

Have you looked on youtube tractor mike has some good videos
on stuff like what you need

willy

I sure have, and every video out there contradicts every other one. Some say use the upper, some say use the lower without draft, and the next set talks about draft control and one says use the upper the next says use the lower. It's all a crap shoot, specific to each tractor and implement I guess with no real official guidance.

 

[2515R Dude]

You'd think so, but I did that when I originally put them on, went the next size up and it was too long, I could not use come of my implements, so I sold that one and went back to stock size. The longer one totally did not work in my situation.

Easy solution without changing anything : I guess your wife, when she collected a big pile of straw infront of the rake, she wanted the rake go over this pile and shortened the top link too much.
Just explain to her what happen and ask her to pay attention on how much she can retract it to avoid similar situation. Or just lift the rake all together or go in reverse. Just experiment a little, When you now where the problem is, you can easily find a way to avoid it.

Also a little tip. If you attach the rake to the lower hole you would be able to lift the rake higher without using the hydraulic top link.