Share Pics of People Hauling or Towing Something Wrong

[Renze]

Had a 2-door for a while and the first thing I did was to remove the bed since it served no purpose.View attachment 1389910

I remember building a gooseneck trailer for a Renault Master chassis-cab on which the dealer made a dropside bed. I thought it was the most pointless build we ever did, because the bed would be useless with the 2 foot 5th wheel plate exposed, and the cargo space above the gooseneck (with a 2 foot gooseneck to clear the dropside boards) would be so high that its pretty useless too. A conventional stepdeck in combination with a removable bed that locks into the 5th wheel coupler and two catches in both front corners, would be more practical, and he wouldnt be constantly overloading the truck. But thats what you get when an end user goes to a bodybuilder who wants some of the work himself but outsources the trailer, then you get unpractical contraptions like that.

Yeah i know a gooseneck is pretty common in North America, but in NA every pickup comes with a truck bed for the same price as a chassis cab without it, and you guys have ball couplers where here, only the 2 foot saddle has a type approval.

Here in Europe the default body is enclosed van, (not a pickup bed like in North America) and a chassis cab goes for about the same price.

 

[BigBlue1]

I see tons of pickups where it's obvious that nothing has ever been carried except people.
Large, jacked up, big tires, solid rear cover. Shiny.

I also see many being used as work vehicles.

So it's a split. Many are lifestyle as paying > 70,000 for a pickup seems a bit steep to shove dirty tools in the back.

Both of my prior trucks were used as trucks for hauling and towing. They both looked like new at 7 years old when I traded them off. Don't judge use by condition. Not everyone is a savage that destroys vehicles when they use them. And not everyone treats their own vehicle like they treat a business/work truck.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Yeah i know a gooseneck is pretty common in North America, but in NA every pickup comes with a truck bed for the same price as a chassis cab without it...

Ram gives you a whopping $400 credit for a bed delete.

Okay, so you could sell that new bed for much more, but are still faced with the pickup frame which is trickier to build a well supported flatbed on.

The flat frame rails in the standard 34" width on a C&C makes adding things to it much easier. Also, with a Ram there's 74 gallon fuel capacity available, and I like that the rear axle isn't as wide as on a DRW pickup.

 

[WinterDeere]

Both of my prior trucks were used as trucks for hauling and towing. They both looked like new at 7 years old when I traded them off. Don't judge use by condition. Not everyone is a savage that destroys vehicles when they use them. And not everyone treats their own vehicle like they treat a business/work truck.

Same here. The inside of my bed might be a little messed up, albeit not so easy to detect under sprayed-in bed liner, but I try to keep the outside and interior relatively clean. I work my truck more than any 25 other weekend warriors I know, in fact they'll agree on that, but my truck is also usually cleaner after 10 years of use than most of theirs. I just don't go throwing chains and ratchet strap buckles over the side, and I vacuum it out and wipe it down inside at least 2x per year, or more when it's particularly messy out.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

There's indeed a difference between use and abuse.

 

[WinterDeere]

The ones I never got were the guys with caved in license plates and tailgates. As if backing up to a trailer without smashing into it, or running the right size ball for your coupler, is a bridge to far. It's not that difficult, guys!

 

[ning]

The ones I never got were the guys with caved in license plates and tailgates. As if backing up to a trailer without smashing into it, or running the right size ball for your coupler, is a bridge to far. It's not that difficult, guys!

If you have a drop hitch, you won't hit your license plate!

(how else am I supposed to know how far to back up? I have a shell on my truck, I go till I hit something, then pull forward 2 inches. about 50:50 I get it first try... maybe someday I'll buy a camera, but probably not)

 

[kozal01]

I dont have much use for my camera on my truck but for hooking up trailers it is a huge time saver.

 

[Runner]

(how else am I supposed to know how far to back up? I have a shell on my truck, I go till I hit something, then pull forward 2 inches. about 50:50 I get it first try... maybe someday I'll buy a camera, but probably not)

Camera is probably best way, I don't have one either. Those little magnetic wires with balls on top that you stick to your hitch and to the trailer would probably work pretty good too.

What I do is backup until I'm close (like within a foot or so), then stop, get out and walk to the back of the truck. Note how far the ball is from the trailer, then get back in the truck and leave the door open. Then, I look straight down and pick a spot on the driveway and use that as a reference point to see how far to back up. Works almost every time (I tend to be conservative and stop a little short sometimes).

Note: It also helps to keep the trailer tongue close to the height of the ball so that it is likely to hit the ball first before getting to some other part of the truck that you don't want to hit (just in case you do back up a little too far).

 

[kozal01]

Camera is probably best way, I don't have one either. What I do is backup until I'm close (like within a foot or so), then stop, get out and walk to the back of the truck. Note how far the ball is from the trailer, then get back in the truck and leave the door open. Then, I look straight down and pick a spot on the driveway and use that as a reference point to see how far to back up. Works almost every time (I tend to be conservative and stop a little short sometimes).

This is exactly how I used to do it.