Best and worst chainsaw?

[tom3]

I

M I even started buying the echo premix fuel. I've always used premix but upgraded to echo's red "something." Somehow, that saw burned up and I threw it away after less than a year. The dealer said water somehow got in the fuel. I'm not sure how that could have happened. Regardless, I never liked the saw so I didn't press it.

h).

A bit off topic but worth a mention I think. Son lives way up on the "Ridge" and had a big tree down. Got a bottle of the new Stihl biodegradable 50:1 mix oil with fresh gas and started cutting. After the first tank his MS290 (?) started slowing down and quit. Piston and cylinder was completely destroyed, worst I've ever seen in a two stroke. Hopefully you all have different experiences with this stuff. I'd stick with convention oils and mix.

 

[gstrom99]

Probably getting paid by Stihl?

I try and pick up on the saws being used by military or first responders, seen in news clips. The saws are not the focus, and most seem to be Stihl.

My saw of choice though, is Husqvarna.

 

[IndyIan]

I had a 372XP but have not seen it in two years after loaning it to a "friend".

I know what his best saw is! I only loan out my little plastic saw. It seems no one can kill it, or wants to keep it! I actually like the little husky 141, for little stuff or cutting trails and doing stuff you shouldn't do. It is narrow and light at least, and I keep it sharp and it starts. So its a pretty good saw, unless you are looking at a cord of 20" hardwood logs...

 

[Snobdds]

A bit off topic but worth a mention I think. Son lives way up on the "Ridge" and had a big tree down. Got a bottle of the new Stihl biodegradable 50:1 mix oil with fresh gas and started cutting. After the first tank his MS290 (?) started slowing down and quit. Piston and cylinder was completely destroyed, worst I've ever seen in a two stroke. Hopefully you all have different experiences with this stuff. I'd stick with convention oils and mix.

Most saws "blow up" from an air leak causing a lean condition than what gas and oil is being run.

Air leaks are the # 1 cause of dead saws.

 

[JeepHead]

I try and pick up on the saws being used by military or first responders, seen in news clips. The saws are not the focus, and most seem to be Stihl.

My saw of choice though, is Husqvarna.

Both of these groups rarely run saws with any sort of frequency and are just using what purchasing people received the best deal on that met the required specs. It's better to look at what the timber pros are using as it's their own money they're spending while depending on the tool to do the job and last a decent amount of time. Around my parts it's Husqvarna by a wide margin..

I use to be a die hard Stihl guy and that's all I wanted to buy. My uncle was a Husqvarna dealer and kept bugging me to give them a shot. Since then, I rarely ever consider a Stihl anymore. I think Husqvarna always out performs them on about every level in the pro saw line.

 

[MMC]

I will start cutting firewood in the coming months which made me wonder, "what's my best and worst chainsaw?" I'm not extremely picky on brands but my experience with Echo is mixed and is limited to one model with Stihl. Aside from a basic homeowner, inexpensive poulan I've had 3 chainsaws.

My first "farm/commercial" grade purchase was the echo cs590 "timberwolf." Bought it bout 9 years ago (?). My favorite saw. 20" bar and cuts everything I've thrown at it. I've cut firewood: we heat our home with a Lopi wood stove. I've trimmed trees and cleared well over 1,000 cedar off of 70 acres. This saw is my favorite. It's a bit heavy for trimming and clearing cedars.

I wanted a lighter saw so, I stuck with Echo and bought the 4510 with an 18" bar. This saw never ran right. Finicky bout idling. I struggled with it for a few months. My dealer (who is great) tweaked it. Ran a bit better. I even started buying the echo premix fuel. I've always used premix but upgraded to echo's red "something." Somehow, that saw burned up and I threw it away after less than a year. The dealer said water somehow got in the fuel. I'm not sure how that could have happened. Regardless, I never liked the saw so I didn't press it.

I then picked up the Stihl ms250 with an 18" bar. This is a great saw. Lighter than the echo. And, starts a bit easier. But, it doesn't cut as efficient. I use both saws and appreciate them. The cs590 remains my favorite. It just cuts so dang fast and sometimes the weight works for me. Even when I'm sawing cedars horizontal the speed may offset the weight.

I do want a new saw. I'm thinking about a new cs590. What's your experience for best all around saw. By all around, I mean firewood and property mtnce (clearing cedar, fenceline cleaning, even cutting brush and underbrush).

OK, I'll give this a shot. I have used a lot of chainsaws for farm use, not for logging or arborist use, tho.' Here's my experience...

As 5030 said, the best chainsaw I ever owned was a Stihl 028. A younger version of myself heated with wood. I used that saw so much and was so impressed over the years, I traded it in on another Stihl. Worst mistake ever. The closest Stihl size never had the power of the 028. So traded it to another Stihl. And another. Turns out the Germans apparently forgot how to deliver fuel to their engines. And professionals, in larger saws, swear by them. I've got one in the shop, fairly new, that myself and others swear at. And don't tell me to spend time "fixing" an apparent factory problem (from what I read). Still a good, strong saw, when it runs...

I buy from a dealer - next to the Stihls was a pretty orange Echo. I bought it and never looked back. The CS-500P saw (about 50CC). Bought another, too, CS-501P. Both start, and run, and cut wood. Gee, that's what I wanted. Saw an Echo gas Polesaw. Bought it. Use it a lot. After 8 years...it starts, and runs, and cuts wood. You see the thread here. Think the newer 501P has a compression release, but all of these saws start easily.

Here's what I do on farm saws not used every day. I use only Echo Red Armor oil for my mix (it has some onboard fuel stabilizers) and only 89 Octane alcohol free gas. I also change out bars and chains to 2 or 4 inches smaller to get real performance out of these saws (except for the polesaw).

For field use, I use good sharp files and a raker gauge, etc. But...I have to train people that if you touch one of my saws, you sharpen it and fill it up afterwards. Period. But, it takes a little time to show folks the two file system, so I am now using PFERT 2 in 1 file guides (cuts the tooth and raker at the same time). Seems to work well enough, easy to demonstrate, and this is what Stihl is selling with a different color...

Another note...I have two 56V Echo cordless chainsaws with several fat batteries. They go on the truck or RTV when things go to the devil during a storm. For limbing downed trees and cutting 6-10 inch branches, they are great (and I'm not always a fan of some of this stuff). They don't replace gas chainsaws, but make these tasks much easier.

This is just my personal experience. But I am satisfied with Echo for my farm purposes. And you might do some reading on one of several arborist sites for chainsaw reviews. People who make their actual living with a chainsaw...know stuff.

Best of Luck. But buy from a good dealer.

 

[tradosaurus]

Might want to ask what is the best and worst chainsaw, buying new. I've heard Stihl has gone downhill in quality.

 

[John_Mc]

I also change out bars and chains to 2 or 4 inches smaller to get real performance out of these saws

All of the saw manufacturers seem to want to put long bars on their saws. I guess they think it makes them look tougher, or maybe it sells to the folks who think bigger always means better. I see box stores with 18 or 20" bars on 50cc saws. That makes no sense to me. Maybe I'd feel differently if I were cutting mainly softwoods, but most of my work is in slow-grown hardwoods. My 562XP (60cc) wears a 16" bar most of the time: good balance, easily maneuverable, good power in hardwoods. I'll occasionally put a 20" bar on it, but only if I know I'm going to be blocking up a bunch of logs in the 15-20" diameter range. If I need to cut bigger, I go with a bigger saw. If I only have a few cuts in the larger diameters to make, I'll stick with the smaller saw and shorter bar and just go at it from two sides. I'd rather not lug around the extra weight and longer bar all day just for a few cuts.

... and don't get me started on the long bars on smaller saws to save your back by avoiding bending over while limbing. That's just poor body mechanics. You are working at the wrong end of a longer than necessary lever. Just bend your legs to get down lower. As someone with a host of neck and back problems stemming from old wrestling and skiing injuries, I can say from experience that when used properly, shorter bars coupled with proper technique are better for your back. If you have a lot of big wood to cut, by all means, go for a longer bar on an appropriately sized powerhead.

I have to train people that if you touch one of my saws, you sharpen it and fill it up afterwards. Period.

I've learned the hard way: I NEVER let someone else fuel up my saws with their gas. (Maybe one or two close friends that I'm CERTAIN know what they are doing when it comes to fuel.) These days, if someone want to borrow my chainsawsaw or brush clearing saw, the operator (me) comes with it. For the few that I will lend it out to, it comes with a can of gas for refills, and I ask them NOT to fill the can when they use it up: when the can dies, they're done, and leave it empty.

 

[Rockbadchild]

Might want to ask what is the best and worst chainsaw, buying new. I've heard Stihl has gone downhill in quality.

That's hard ask, like the saying goes It's easy to look sharp when you haven't done any work.

On the second point my dad was a conventional lumberjack in the 80's and his brand of choice was Husqvarna and Jonson red back then. Last year he was shopping for a chainsaw so we where talking about different models and sizes, I mentioned to explore Stihl since they are cheaper, he answered with I don't care how cheap they are you wont convince me to buy one, I asked him what he had against them and he said when he was cutting for a living guys with Stihl where working on their chainsaw more then cutting wood. Ok that was the 80's and who knows what was going on there and it is anecdotal but from his experience they weren't reliable back then.

 

[JeepHead]

OK, I'll give this a shot. I have used a lot of chainsaws for farm use, not for logging or arborist use, tho.' Here's my experience...

As 5030 said, the best chainsaw I ever owned was a Stihl 028. A younger version of myself heated with wood. I used that saw so much and was so impressed over the years, I traded it in on another Stihl. Worst mistake ever. The closest Stihl size never had the power of the 028. So traded it to another Stihl. And another. Turns out the Germans apparently forgot how to deliver fuel to their engines. And professionals, in larger saws, swear by them. I've got one in the shop, fairly new, that myself and others swear at. And don't tell me to spend time "fixing" an apparent factory problem (from what I read). Still a good, strong saw, when it runs...

I buy from a dealer - next to the Stihls was a pretty orange Echo. I bought it and never looked back. The CS-500P saw (about 50CC). Bought another, too, CS-501P. Both start, and run, and cut wood. Gee, that's what I wanted. Saw an Echo gas Polesaw. Bought it. Use it a lot. After 8 years...it starts, and runs, and cuts wood. You see the thread here. Think the newer 501P has a compression release, but all of these saws start easily.

Here's what I do on farm saws not used every day. I use only Echo Red Armor oil for my mix (it has some onboard fuel stabilizers) and only 89 Octane alcohol free gas. I also change out bars and chains to 2 or 4 inches smaller to get real performance out of these saws (except for the polesaw).

For field use, I use good sharp files and a raker gauge, etc. But...I have to train people that if you touch one of my saws, you sharpen it and fill it up afterwards. Period. But, it takes a little time to show folks the two file system, so I am now using PFERT 2 in 1 file guides (cuts the tooth and raker at the same time). Seems to work well enough, easy to demonstrate, and this is what Stihl is selling with a different color...

Another note...I have two 56V Echo cordless chainsaws with several fat batteries. They go on the truck or RTV when things go to the devil during a storm. For limbing downed trees and cutting 6-10 inch branches, they are great (and I'm not always a fan of some of this stuff). They don't replace gas chainsaws, but make these tasks much easier.

This is just my personal experience. But I am satisfied with Echo for my farm purposes. And you might do some reading on one of several arborist sites for chainsaw reviews. People who make their actual living with a chainsaw...know stuff.

Best of Luck. But buy from a good dealer.

You will want to keep your eyes open for a good used Echo 4910 then. They are pretty much the same saw as the 501P with very minor differences such as captive bar nuts, aluminum handles ect. Internally, they're the same... One of my favorite saws.

 

[kenmbz]

I love my 24" bar on my 60cc.
Allows me to be more upright when cutting, and gives better angle of approach on larger trees.
Balance in the cut is good for me too.

A 20" bar means I have to do almost two cuts on 24 to 32" woods.

I cut mostly Ash and some cherry and maple.

Rarely do pine.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

The ol Husqvarna 460 Rancher got a three hour workout today felling several 60' trees that were hanging over a house.

 

[MMC]

You will want to keep your eyes open for a good used Echo 4910 then. They are pretty much the same saw as the 501P with very minor differences such as captive bar nuts, aluminum handles ect. Internally, they're the same... One of my favorite saws.

Thanks, I will.

 

[Rockbadchild]

to buy new my choice would be the HUSQVARNA 555 or 365 X-Torq

if I would be a Stihl guy my choice would the Stihl MS 391

 

[gsganzer]

Where did you see this?

From the Stabil website:
"STA-BIL 360° PROTECTION™ can be used in any gasoline engine, including 2cycle, but is specifically designed for use in higher end vehicles and equipment, such as classic/hot rod type vehicles, motorcycles, and ATV’s. For Marine engines, we recommend the use of STA-BIL® 360° MARINE." [emphasis added]

You're correct. I went to their website and found the same info. I looked it up a couple years ago, so maybe it wasn't always the case, or maybe it didn't explicitly state "good for 2-cycles", when I looked back then.

 

[FriendwithTractor]

I have a ported 500i. She eats both through the wood and the gas, but that's to be expected. If I'm going to be in small wood, I have the 271 which I would classify as a chainsaw. I don't have any strong feelings about it it does it's job and certainly fits the category as a farm/homeowner saw.
I've run some Husqvarnas as well and enjoyed them. Can't say I've ever used a large Echo but I know people swear by them, especially the Timberwolf.

Comes down to what you can get a good deal on and how much cutting you'll do.

 

[MarkMac]

my best is an Echo 620PW. It starts easy, runs great, and it’s more saw than I need. Frankly, if the 620 can’t do it, then I need to call a professional.

I’m a lefty, and I like the options the wrap handle affords me. Generally the wrap handles don’t seem popular though.

I also have a Milwaukee 18v battery saw. It’s very handy, but the batteries fall flat in the cold.

My worst saw is a decade old Poulan neon green SOB that doesn’t currently run because it’s fuel starved. I tried a rebuild and failed.

IMO the 60cc+ saws seem like they are just more reliable and less finicky.

 

[MarkMac]

Most saws "blow up" from an air leak causing a lean condition than what gas and oil is being run.

Air leaks are the # 1 cause of dead saws.

This. ^

The crank seals are there is keep air out. Once a 2-stroke saw gets a leaky crank seal it’ll suck in air and lean out the mixture. Initially you’ll be thinking the saw is running awesome, aaaaand then the piston squeaks.

I learned this riding 2-stroke dirt bikes. On a dirt bike, a bad ignition/magneto side crank seal will cause it to run lean and burn pistons. A bad gearbox (AKA wet side) crank seal will make it smoke badly and foul spark plugs from the crankcase oil getting sucked in.

 

[5030]

I will say that my 45+ year old 028 still has the ORIGIONAL spark plug in it. I've gapped it a couple times but it's original. The 028 is an RPM saw as well and it pulls a 20" roller nose bar with 325 full tooth chipper no issue. Has to be my favorite saw even if it's older than dirt.

Not much plastic on it unlike the new saws either. It's all alloy except the top shroud.

I've heard that new plugs are like everything else today... cheaply made but expensive.

 

[TimberFarm]

Ran my new Husqvarna 562XP MKII today for the first time.
I'm going to like this saw. Sound reminds me of my old SuperXL. Has that old growl to it.